Double -- Restaurant Review

 

For information, location and reservations, refer to website: https://www.double-paris.fr/

Rating Standards: 5-Stars = Extraordinary; 4-Stars = Excellent; 3-Stars = Average; 2-Stars = Fair; 1-Star = Poor 

€ = Inexpensive: 30€ and under; €€ = Moderate: 31€-49€; €€€ = Expensive: €50 -75; €€€€ = Very Expensive: more than €76 (prices based on minimum 2-courses)

1-Bell = Pleasantly quiet (less than 65 decibels); 2-Bells = Can talk easily (65-70); 3-Bells = Talking normally gets difficult (70-80); 4-Bells = Can talk only in raised voices (75-90); BOMB = Too noisy for normal conversation (90+)

4.75 - Star........................................€€€..................................... Bomb - Bells

This restaurant was recommended by a good friend of ours who doesn't live in Paris full time, but keeps abreast of new and happening restaurants more than any of us. And, we're lucky for that. 

They bill themselves as a "Micro-Comptoir", which basically means micro-counters. This is more of a fun culinary exploratory restaurant than a restaurant for a romantic dinner. We commandeered the restaurant. We were 12, which is the maximum. Note: they have 2-seatings, at 7:30 pm and 9:30 pm.

There are 2-counters, one facing the chef/kitchen and the other facing the wall. It was really, really tight, the backs of our chairs were practically touching. 

A little about Chef Tsuyoshi Yamakawa. He's worked in several restaurants in Paris, including Michelin starred restaurants. His Japanese/European influence can clearly be seen in his dishes. Currently, he is heavily influenced by Italian cuisine.

We had a pre-fixe meal of 7-tasting dishes. Additionally, we were served copious amounts of focaccia, which by-the-way was delicious. And, I'm a big bread maker.

Firstly, the waiter explained how the dishes were going to be prepared and asked if anyone was allergic to certain foods. There were a few alterations to the menu.

C'EST PARTI

Fleurs de Courgettes. (Squid ink, buffalo mozzarella & Ricotta, green mayonnaise, pickles).

This had to have been one of my favorite dishes of the evening. The zucchini flowers were stuffed with the cheese and dipped into the squid ink to give it a very complex flavor profile. In its complexity was also simple in the way it was served. The chef retained the stem of the zucchini for an added texture. All around delicious. 

Tomates. (Tomatoes, roasted apricot, smoked ricotta, tomato water & kumbu).

I couldn't eat much of this dish because of my acid reflux, but I did taste it. Surprisingly, it was not sour. The chef mellowed out the sourness. They were also skinned. I think the apricot played a big part in mellowing the sourness. I loved it, although I did not eat much of it. 

Sériole. (Yellowtail, tosazu jelly, green asparagus, peas, spring onion oil.)

This was excellent. The jelly had a, not salty, but a sea flavor, which I love. Although it said peas, they were actually al-dente broad beans. And the spring onion oil brought it all together. The combinations all worked. Another excellent dish. 

Risotto. [Nduja (pork sausage), squid ink, pumpkin, citron]. 

Although good, this was my least favorite dish of the evening, although everyone else loved it. Compared to the previous dishes that we had, it had a much simpler flavor profile. It was just ordinary. I'm also not big fan of pumpkin. Interestingly, it had dollops of chili paste, very unusual for Japanese and/or Italian style cooking. 

Casarecce. [Casarecce artichoke, pistachio cream, stracciatella (pulled cheese seems similar to soft mozzarella)]

I liked this dish a lot. There were different textural components as well as complimenting flavors of the cheese and artichoke. A very good, simple dish. 

Citarra. (Spaghetti alla chitarra, vongole, peperoncino, kosho grapefruit)

I have to say this was an interesting combination. Normally, the clams would've. been served with the pasta, but my eating companion is allergic to clams so they keep them separate. Lucky me since I love clams.

The combinations were unique, but it worked. The flavor contrasts of the grapefruit, pasta just worked, in a unique hard to explain kind of way.

Homard. (Half lobster, misozuke zucchini, bisque)

And, the finale for our savory dishes was the lobster. It was delicious. The lobster was so sweet and tender and the bisque was like a rich typical lobster bisque. I loved this dish. Albeit rich, but so delicious.

NOTE: We opted not to have dessert, because at this point we were so full. 

SUMMARY 

If you're looking for an exploratory culinary experience, then this is a restaurant for you. If you are looking for fine dining or romantic place, this is not for you. The restaurant is very, very small and tight and because of its size can get extremely noisy. There are no tables, just 2-large counters in parallel, one facing the kitchen another facing the wall. The chef is very, very talented. He brought a lot of his skills from Japan of aesthetic beauty with his European training, specifically Italian. The food was overall wonderful. Would we go back, absolutely. I would have given this 5 stars (great food, service) but knocked down .25 because of the noise and difficulty to talk.

They have 2-seatings, 7:30 pm and 9:30 pm. The pre-fixe 7-course dinner, excluding desert is 62€. With several bottles of wine (I lost track). Rounded up, we paid 99€ per person. Expensive, but in my book, well worth the culinary experience. Note: It is noisy, but again we went for the food and we are all friends.