About

"The evolving Francophile..."

My husband Jack has always wanted to live in Paris and learn French. I thought it would be good for him to achieve his life time dream. Hence, we moved to Paris in 2008. My first year was difficult. I started "missives" to relieve some stress and chronicle my life so friends back in the US could read what I am experiencing. I currently write about food in Paris, which is my passion., travel experiences, and "experiences living in Paris."

It is definitely a challenge to live here, but each year it gets easier, and quite enjoyable, in large part because I value friendships over locale. I have a love/hate relationship with Paris as do most Parisians, mais La vie est belle (but life is good)!

Tuesday, June 23, 2026

Bistrotters-- Restaurant Review

For information, reservations = https://www.bistrotters.com/


Rating Standards: 5-Stars = Extraordinary; 4-Stars = Excellent; 3-Stars = Average; 2-Stars = Fair; 1-Star = Poor € = Inexpensive: 30€ and under; €€ = Moderate: 31€-49€; €€€ = Expensive: €50 -75; €€€€ = Very Expensive: more than €76 (prices based on minimum 2-courses) 

1-Bell = Pleasantly quiet (less than 65 decibels); 2-Bells = Can talk easily (65-70); 3-Bells = Talking normally gets difficult (70-80); 4-Bells = Can talk only in raised voices (75-90); BOMB = Too noisy for normal conversation (90+)



4.50 - stars ...................€€.................................  80 DECIBELS, 4-đź””

(Note: value based without wine, see details in summary)


Believe it or not, finding an air-conditioned restaurant in Paris that's open on a Monday isn't as easy as it sounds—unless you're dining at a hotel restaurant or splurging on a Michelin-starred address.

So, during this canicule (HEATWAVE) I made it my mission to find a restaurant that checked two essential boxes: #1 Air-conditioned and #2 Open on a Monday.

If you don't already know, many Paris restaurants—and even a surprising number of cafĂ©s—close on Sundays and especially Mondays. That can make dining options pretty slim.

We lucked out and discovered Bistrotters, just a 30-minute walk from our apartment. Not only does it have air conditioning, but it's also open seven days a week. As I approached the entrance, I noticed the windows were covered with accolades and awards. I thought, well, this looks promising.

I already knew they turned tables, so the only reservation I could snag at the last minute was 7:00 p.m. Normally, I'd say that's far too early for dinner—especially during a canicule when it's still blazing hot outside—but when air conditioning is involved, compromises must be made.

In fact, we arrived a few minutes early and had to wait outside because they literally don't unlock the doors until 7:00 p.m. sharp.


The interior was cozy—very cozy. In fact, I'd say it crossed the line from cozy to Parisian intimacy. Since we were the first guests to arrive, we had the chance to take in the space before the evening rush began.

The restaurant is divided into two dining rooms. The rear room feels a bit like a long, wide hallway, lined with orange banquettes and situated directly in front of the kitchen. The front room serves as the main dining area, with large windows that open onto the street, filling the space with natural light and giving it a classic neighborhood bistro feel.

As the restaurant filled up, "cozy" took on a whole new meaning. The tables are packed tightly together, and by the end of the evening we were definitely more than neighbors to the diners at the next table—we were practically sharing the same ZIP code.

If the weather cooperates, you can also dine al fresco. However, during a canicule, outdoor seating wasn't even a consideration for us—we were there for one reason: air conditioning.

For those visiting in cooler weather, I'd choose the front dining room for its bright, open atmosphere and street views. But during a heat wave, the back room is the clear winner, as it's where the air-conditioning vent is located and where you'll find the coolest seats in the house.

Note: I'm only reviewing the dishes I had.


ENTRÉE


Encornets en persillade, créme de fenouil, courgettes et poivrons sautés. (Squid in parsley and garlic, fennel cream, sautéed zucchini with bell peppers)

Maybe it was the heat, but I honestly expected this dish to be served cold. Instead, it arrived warm. Truth be told, I probably would have preferred it chilled, but that didn't stop it from being absolutely delicious.

The light and airy fennel cream tied all the elements together beautifully, but the real star of the show was the squid. It was cooked to perfection—so tender it practically melted in your mouth. Anyone who has ever cooked squid knows that's no easy feat.

There was also a surprise tuile, and I could immediately tell it was made with squid ink, thanks to its distinctive briny flavor, nice touch. It added both texture and an extra layer of complexity to the dish.

The entire entrée was beautifully composed, with every element working in harmony. In fact, it was my favorite dish of the evening.

NOTE: I have to admit, one of my dining pet peeves is when restaurants don't replace the utensils between courses—especially after a dish with a creamy sauce. The last thing I want is  fennel cream making an unexpected appearance in my next course.

I've also noticed that some restaurants seem more diligent about changing utensils for French diners than for tourists. Whether that's intentional or simply oversight, I can't say. In any case, when our next course arrived, I politely asked for fresh utensils. It's a small detail, but one that I think makes a difference in the overall dining experience.


PLATS PRINCIPAL

Called des Vosges farcie Ă  l’estragon, jus au cidre, gnocchi de panais, Ă©pinard. (Voges Quail stuffed with tarragon, cider jus, parsnip gnocchis, spinach) 

I love quail, although when it's served whole it can sometimes be a bit challenging to eat. Here, the bird was presented thoughtfully, with the body stuffed with tarragon while the legs remained intact, making for a rustic yet elegant presentation.

The accompanying jus was excellent—light, flavorful, and beautifully balanced. It tasted like a true reduction rather than a sauce thickened with flour or roux. Interestingly, it had a subtle sweetness that caught my attention. I found myself wondering whether the chef had added just a touch of honey or sugar to round out the flavors. Whatever the secret, it worked. The quail itself was moist, tender, and full of flavor.

The gnocchi were equally impressive. Perfectly cooked, they were light and delicate rather than dense or gummy. My guess is that the addition of parsnips helped, as they're less starchy than potatoes and lend a subtle sweetness of their own.

If I had one minor criticism, it would be the spinach. For my taste, it leaned a little too sweet, especially alongside a dish that already featured several naturally sweet elements. Still, that's a small quibble in what was otherwise a very satisfying plate.


DESSERT


Chou praliné aux noix de pécan, ganache au chocolat et glace vanille. (Pecan praline choux pastry, chocolate ganache, and vanilla ice cream)

I don't normally order dessert, but the ice cream on this one practically called my name.

The chou pastry was just a touch tougher than I would have liked, but in the end it's really just a vehicle for the chocolate ganache. Fortunately, the kitchen got the ganache exactly right. Rather than being overly dense and rich, it was silky, creamy, and surprisingly light.

As for the ice cream, it was the perfect ending to a sweltering evening. Refreshing, cool, and full of flavor, it provided a welcome respite from the canicule outside. I could easily have eaten more, although for someone who is lactose intolerant, a few spoonfuls were probably just the right amount.

Overall, it was a very enjoyable dessert—thoughtfully balanced, not overly sweet, and a satisfying finish to an excellent meal.


WINES

Al Muvedra-Tinto Monastrell 2024

To accompany our meal, we selected the 2024 A-Muñoz Monastrell from Alicante, Spain, produced by Telmo Rodríguez. Monastrell (known as Mourvèdre in France) thrives in the hot Mediterranean climate, and this youthful wine showcased all the freshness and vibrancy the grape can offer. In the glass, it delivered aromas of black cherry, ripe plum, and blackberry, accented by subtle notes of wild Mediterranean herbs and a touch of spice.

What I appreciated most was its balance. While fruit-forward and approachable, it wasn't jammy or heavy. Soft tannins and bright acidity kept the wine lively and refreshing, making it an excellent companion to the meal rather than competing with it. It paired particularly well with the quail, complementing the tarragon stuffing and savory jus while adding just enough fruit and spice to round out each bite. An honest, well-made Spanish red that punches well above its price point.

NOTE: This wine is normally served lightly chilled, which it was, and perfect for a warm summer's night. 









SUMMARY


Unless you're in the know, you're probably not going to stumble across this restaurant. Had I not been specifically researching air-conditioned restaurants during the canicule, we likely would never have discovered it.

Located in a part of the 14th arrondissement that few tourists venture into, Bistrotters feels very much like a neighborhood gem. In fact, aside from us and a large group of international workers led by a French colleague, the clientele appeared to be almost entirely local. After experiencing the food, it's easy to understand why the restaurant has earned so many accolades over the years.

As the evening progressed, the noise level definitely rose—largely thanks to the international group seated nearby. One particularly enthusiastic German woman could probably have been heard halfway across the arrondissement. For once, I didn't feel like the loud American in the room.

Would we return? Absolutely. With food this good, reliable air conditioning, and the restaurant only a 30-minute walk from our apartment, I have a feeling we'll be back sooner rather than later.


For 3-people, we had 2-three course prix-fixe meals @€47 each, 1- two course meals @€39, a soda @€8, and a bottle of wine at €37, our total came to €178 or €59/person. Without the wine, it would've been €141 or €47/person. 

NOTE: they do turn tables have 2 seatings: 7 pm and 9 pm. 

Sunday, June 14, 2026

Erso -- Restaurant Review

 

For information, address, reservations, refer to website: www.erso-restaurant.fr 

Rating Standards: 5-Stars = Extraordinary; 4-Stars = Excellent; 3-Stars = Average; 2-Stars = Fair; 1-Star = Poor € = Inexpensive: 30€ and under; €€ = Moderate: 31€-49€; €€€ = Expensive: €50 -75; €€€€ = Very Expensive: more than €76 (prices based on minimum 2-courses) 

1-Bell = Pleasantly quiet (less than 65 decibels); 2-Bells = Can talk easily (65-70); 3-Bells = Talking normally gets difficult (70-80); 4-Bells = Can talk only in raised voices (75-90); BOMB = Too noisy for normal conversation (90+)


4.50 - stars ...................€€€.................................  3-đź””


We live in Paris, so we don't usually research restaurants before going out. If a place looks interesting, we simply give it a try. We have friends in Nice who, whenever they come to Paris, like to do a little research before choosing where to eat. Every restaurant they've recommended has been a winner, and this one is no exception. Consider it another well-deserved addition to their growing list of hits.




As many of you know, I love restaurants with an open kitchen. To me, it says a lot about a place—you can see how cleanly they work, how organized they are, and how the team interacts under pressure. I’ve always believed that a happy kitchen is a good sign that good food is on the way.

We sat right at the kitchen counter, giving us a front-row seat to the action. I was fascinated watching 4 or 5 people working together in such a small, narrow space. They moved with incredible precision, like a perfectly choreographed dance—each person knowing exactly where to be and what to do without missing a beat.  

The restaurant is small and cozy—very typical of Paris, where every square meter is put to good use. They also offer counter seating for two, which is a nice option if you enjoy being close to the action.

One practical tip: if you're someone who makes frequent trips to the restroom, I'd recommend requesting a table in the main dining room or an aisle seat. The tables are arranged quite close together, as is often the case in Paris. That said, it never felt cramped or uncomfortable—just intimate and full of charm.


NOTE:  I'm only going to review the dishes I had. 

There were no prix-fixe menus, you order a-la-carte.



Smoked tuna with hay Tarama sardines -- Nikka Whiskey, black pear pickles, nori seaweed, wild asparagus from the grill, white garlic. 

When the entrée arrived, my first impression was that it was a simple yet beautifully composed dish. As our server explained the preparation, however, I realized there was nothing simple about it. The intricate combination of ingredients and the painstaking process behind each element highlighted the French commitment to achieving a very specific flavor profile. They truly embrace the idea that great cuisine is built through layers of technique and attention to detail.

The tuna was exceptionally fresh, while the sardines were surprisingly mild and delicate. What impressed me most was that, despite the many flavors and components surrounding the dish, the tuna remained the undisputed star. It felt as though the accompanying garlic, nori, and other elements existed solely to showcase and elevate the fish rather than compete with it. The result was a beautifully balanced plate and, without question, my favorite dish of the evening.




Lamb in two courses. Rack of lamb -- candied shoulder in shizo leaf, artichoke mousseline -- tahini artichokes pepper lacquers unagi, kumquat condiment, melilot gel, lamb juice.

This was not a dish for everyone. The lamb was served quite rare, and while I don't normally eat rare meat, I have to admit it was delicious.

Visually, it wasn't the most appealing presentation. My main criticism is that the rack of lamb had not been fully trimmed, leaving a thick layer of fat that is typically removed. That said, the jus was excellent—rich, flavorful, and beautifully executed.

The artichoke hearts were not cooked as much as I would have preferred and had a slightly thorny texture. In contrast, the creamed artichokes were absolutely delicious, providing a smooth and satisfying counterpoint.

On the other hand, the confit—described on the menu as candied—was outstanding. The shiso leaf was a thoughtful addition, bringing a touch of freshness that the dish needed and helping to balance the richness of the other components.

Overall, the flavors were very good, and there was a lot to admire. With a few refinements, however, this dish could easily be elevated to the next level.



Orange blossom semolina cake. creamy dulce, cherries, cigarette tile - fennel seeds, thyme-lemon ice cream

JJ ordered this dessert. I'm not a big fan of semolina, as I tend to find it a bit too grainy for my taste. That said, I thought it was a well-composed dessert with a nice balance of flavors and textures.

Jack, on the other hand, thought it was very good, so I'll defer to his judgment since I don't eat many desserts. What I did particularly enjoy were the creamy dulce de leche, the cherries, and the cigarette tuile. The thyme-lemon ice cream was excellent, and the fennel seeds added an unexpected but pleasant aromatic touch.

Overall, if I'm being honest, while the semolina wasn't my favorite component, the accompanying elements came together nicely and made for an enjoyable dessert.




Chateau Roubine -- Cru Classé

This was perfect for a warm summer night. The Château Roubine Cru ClassĂ© RosĂ© is a classic Provence rosĂ©—elegant, refreshing, and beautifully balanced. Pale salmon in color, it offered delicate aromas of white peach, citrus, and wild berries, along with subtle floral and herbal notes. On the palate, crisp acidity and a touch of minerality complemented flavors of stone fruit and grapefruit, leading to a clean, lingering finish. Light yet complex, it was an easy-drinking wine that paired exceptionally well with the meal, refreshing the palate without overshadowing the food.





SUMMARY

This was a great restaurant find. While the space is compact and tables are set close together, the ambiance is warm and inviting. The service was excellent, and our waitperson, who had lived in Australia for several years, spoke with an Aussie accent that I found quite charming.

There is no prix-fixe dinner menu, but the Ă  la carte prices are very reasonable. The menu itself is small—which, as many of you know, I consider a positive. A focused menu allows the kitchen to concentrate on fewer dishes and execute them at a higher level.

Overall, the food was delicious, though I do think the lamb dish could use some refinement. Leaving the thick layer of fat on the rack of lamb didn't work for me, and the dish would have benefited from a fresher element to balance its richness. Artichokes, while flavorful, naturally lend a somewhat gray appearance to a plate, so a brighter component could have enhanced both the presentation and the overall balance. These are relatively minor adjustments, however, and with a little tweaking, this dish could be exceptional.  Would we return, absolutely.


Costs -- 1-sparkling water, 1-glass of red, 1-bottle of rosĂ©, 7-entreĂ©s, 5-plats, 3-desseerts, Our total bill came to €362.50 or €60.42 per person (there were 6 of us). Minus the wine, It would've been €53.91.

Wednesday, May 27, 2026

Bistro Instinct -- Restaurant Review

€ 


For information, reservations, menu, check their website: https://bistrotinstinctparis3.fr/fr

Rating Standards: 5-Stars = Extraordinary; 4-Stars = Excellent; 3-Stars = Average; 2-Stars = Fair; 1-Star = Poor € = Inexpensive: 30€ and under; €€ = Moderate: 31€-49€; €€€ = Expensive: €50 -75; €€€€ = Very Expensive: more than €76 (prices based on minimum 2-courses) 

1-Bell = Pleasantly quiet (less than 65 decibels); 2-Bells = Can talk easily (65-70); 3-Bells = Talking normally gets difficult (70-80); 4-Bells = Can talk only in raised voices (75-90); BOMB = Too noisy for normal conversation (90+)



4.70 - stars ...................€€€.................................  BOMB


This is a restaurant recommended from close friends who live close and swear by it, so we went.

Bistrot Instinct is in the Michelin Guide, though it doesn’t currently have a Bib Gourmand. A lot of people assume it does because the food is excellent without the usual Michelin-level sticker shock, and the whole vibe is relaxed, lively, and very “cool Paris neighborhood bistrot” rather than white-tablecloth ceremony. Michelin describes it as serving market-fresh, modern bistronomic cuisine with updated classics, and it’s built quite the reputation in the Haut-Marais among Paris food lovers for creative seasonal cooking that still feels fun and approachable. All true.

It was a bit of a challenge finding the street, you have to traverse through different small streets, so I suggest you use google maps.




The interior is very compact and intimate, maybe seating for around 30 people total. Since we went during the current Paris heatwave, the room was… let’s just say authentically warm. Oh well. Adds to the experience, non?

They offered both the regular Ă  la carte menu and a seasonal tasting menu for €68 per person, with an optional drink pairing for another €28 that included cocktails, sparkling wine, and wine throughout the meal. Three of us went for the tasting menu with the pairings and honestly, it felt very reasonably priced for the quality. Then again, this is Paris, where you can still find genuinely excellent wine without the absurd markups.

What surprised me most was that almost everyone dining there seemed to be foreign. Considering it’s tucked away and not exactly easy to stumble upon, I just assumed it'd be a local restaurant, but Bistrot Instinct is clearly becoming something of a destination restaurant.



A cold, refreshing jasmine tea arrived with a slice of dried citrus. I have to say, it was such a welcome relief on such a warm evening. Light, floral, and incredibly refreshing. More surprisingly, I’d never had a herbal tea served over ice in Paris before. Thank you, Buddha.

Amuse-bouche: mackerel over Japanese crackers. Another welcome start to the meal, especially since it was served at room temperature. The mackerel lacked that overly strong fishy taste it can sometimes have, and the crackers somehow managed to stay perfectly crisp. A very good beginning.



Entree #1 Artichoke, brown butter, Parmesan, basil. At first glance, the dish looked quite copious, though I joked that half of it was air. In reality, it was a beautiful composition of artichokes in different forms: tender leaves, velvety artichoke purĂ©e, and, best of all, a perfectly poached egg. Much to my surprise, the egg was flawlessly cooked despite the dish being served at room temperature. Everything worked together beautifully, with a few crunchy strands scattered throughout for texture. Light, elegant, and very satisfying.

Wine Pairing, Preamble,  it’s actually an English sparkling wine rather than French, though stylistically it drinks very much like a refined grower Champagne.  JJ, not usually a white wine drinker and never champagne, liked it and said it tasted similar to cider which he does like.




Entree #2. Green Asparagus Tempura
Hay-Smoked Trout, Candied Egg Yolk, Nori Seaweed, Lemon Kosho, and Yuzu.
Very simple dish in appearance, but I'm sure a lot of effort was made to compose this dish.  The tempura asparagus had a wonderful crunch while the asparagus itself stayed soft yet still firm. It was surrounded by lightly blanched asparagus, adding a fresh contrast. I didn’t really pick up much nori, but the lemon and yuzu came through beautifully, giving the dish a bright citrus lift. The warm tempura against the cool vegetables made for a really lovely combination of both textures and temperatures.

Pairing: Domaine de Cantaussel’s Aucel Blanc is bright, fresh, and wonderfully easy to drink. Made from 100% Vermentino, it opens with citrus, white flowers, and a touch of exotic fruit. On the palate, there’s crisp minerality balanced by notes of white peach, lemon, and stone fruit, with a clean, lightly spicy finish. Refreshing without being too sharp, and perfect for warm evenings or seafood dishes.


Pork Loin Maitre d'HĂ´tel Butter, Dauphine Potatoes, Miso, Pak Choi, Kimchi, Verjus. Our waiter told us it was veal, but honestly, it tasted more like pork to me, so I’m just calling it “whatever meat.” Hard to fully tell since the dish was covered in a very rich, heavily reduced stock. Still, it was a very good, hearty course. If I’m being honest though, this was probably my least favorite of the evening, simply because it was a bit too rich for my palate. The pommes dauphine were nicely crisp, although the coating leaned slightly salty. The kimchi was thankfully mild, so as not to overwhelm the dish and added brightness without overpowering the dish.

Pairings: Paul Bueches, Les Terrasses Pinot Noir. Light and elegant, with bright notes of cherry, raspberry, and wild strawberry balanced by subtle earthiness and soft spice. Smooth tannins, fresh acidity, and a silky finish make it easy to drink without feeling heavy. A classic, food-friendly Pinot Noir style.




Dessert: Red Berry Cookie
Strawberry, Pepper, Lovage, Cherry, Mascarpone Cream. A great finish to the meal. The dessert may have looked like a little pile of mud, but underneath all the creams there was actually plenty of texture. The strawberry-cherry cream was light, refreshing, and pleasantly sweet, while the mascarpone added a mild richness and nice contrast. What really brought the dish together was the crunchy element, which gave it much-needed texture and kept it from feeling one-dimensional. Overall, a delicious dessert.

Pairings: Tequila with red berry juice. Although the cocktail itself was delicious, it just wasn’t for me. It had a bit too much tequila for my liking, and I’m not much of a hard liquor drinker. The “cherry juice,” as our waiter described it, was really a blend of red fruits — strawberries, berries, cherries, basically anything red made into a smoothie. Again, a very good cocktail, just stronger than I prefer. Unbeknownst to me, I could have ordered it as a mocktail, which is very good to know for our next visit.

NOTE: We did have a thank you shot of mint liquor, as a parting gift, I took a taste, it was really good, very minty and refreshing.


SUMMARY

WHEW. After all that, we somehow survived a night of absolute gluttony. The restaurant isn’t the easiest place to find from the mĂ©tro, though arriving by taxi or Uber is much simpler. It’s also quite small, and I’ve been told reservations are becoming difficult because of its growing popularity.

The food was excellent and the service equally so. My only real complaint is the noise level. The ceilings in the main upstairs dining room are low, and with the tables packed closely together, it becomes almost impossible to hear conversation at times.

Don’t expect a lot of frou-frou here: no white tablecloths, no stuffy formality. It’s a simple, compact bistrot that’s entirely about the food. 

That said, this is one of the few “touristy” restaurants I would absolutely return to. The pricing feels very fair, especially the seasonal tasting menu with the optional wine pairing, which I highly recommend. Note: you must order the "seasonal tasting menu" in advance. 

I knocked the rating by .5 because of the noise. 


Costs: With 4 "seasonal tasting" menu of 5-courses = €272, wine paring for 3 = €84. A glass of wine for €12, our total bill came to €368 or  €84 each 

However, without the wine it was  €272 for 4-people or €68 each.  As well as an a la carte choosing, they also do a entrĂ©e or desert + plat, or entrĂ©e plat desert formule.

Monday, May 18, 2026

Le Petit Bal Perdu -- Restaurant Review

 

For reservations, details, menu and location, check out website: https://www.lepetitbalperdu.com

Rating Standards: 5-Stars = Extraordinary; 4-Stars = Excellent; 3-Stars = Average; 2-Stars = Fair; 1-Star = Poor € = Inexpensive: 30€ and under; €€ = Moderate: 31€-49€; €€€ = Expensive: €50 -75; €€€€ = Very Expensive: more than €76 (prices based on minimum 2-courses) 


1-Bell = Pleasantly quiet (less than 65 decibels); 2-Bells = Can talk easily (65-70); 3-Bells = Talking normally gets difficult (70-80); 4-Bells = Can talk only in raised voices (75-90); BOMB = Too noisy for normal conversation (90+)



3.5 - stars ...................€................................  BOMB


Sundays in France are usually reserved for visiting maman and settling in for a long, leisurely lunch that somehow stretches all the way to sunset. I’ve been to a few that casually rolled past midnight into the next day. But today was different. We decided to treat ourselves to a classic American-style Sunday lunch. And honestly? It was so much fun. Our reservation wasn’t until 2:30 p.m., yet the restaurant was absolutely packed, with people literally waiting outside for tables. And this wasn’t even one of those perfect Paris postcard days either — it was cold, wet, and rainy. Keep in mind we didn't finish until 5:30 (4-hour late lunch), due to a combination of slow service and we just didn't feel like rushing. 

Le Petit Bal, literally translated to "The Little Lost Dance", is actually part of a little family of restaurant sisters: Le Petit MarchĂ©, Le Petit Italien, and the most famous sister of them all, Chez Janou— legendary for its all-you-can-eat chocolate mousse, and by the way all located in the Le Marais, with the exception of this restaurant. 






As I mentioned earlier, we arrived at 2:30 p.m. and the place was already buzzing. The interior was lively, cozy, and very Parisian — not a single inch of space wasted, even though it’s actually considered fairly large by Paris standards.

They do have a terrace for al-fresco dining, but only the brave souls were sitting outside since it was cold and drizzly. The crowd skewed younger and was predominantly French, which is always a good sign. Then again, it’s close to the Sorbonne, so there are plenty of students around.

And wow… it was loud. Even by American standards. But somehow, that just added to the fun.



It’s a relatively small menu, which most of you already know I prefer. If a menu reads like a novel, I immediately want to leave.

The offerings here were simple, classic French bistro staples done well — nothing overly complicated or trying too hard. Just a solid selection with something for everyone. The prices were also very reasonable, especially by Paris standards.

What really stood out were the weekday lunch specials, which were incredibly affordable. Considering how close they are to the Sorbonne, I’m guessing they cater quite a bit to students, and honestly, it’s nice to see a place still keeping good food accessible, especially for students with their lunch specials. 

I'm only reviewing the dishes I had. 


ENTRÉE

Crispy prawns with basil.

This was basically a prawn wrapped in basil, then rolled in a thin egg-roll wrapper and deep fried. Honestly, how can you really go wrong with anything fried? N’est-ce pas?

The dipping sauce tasted like a bottled sweet-and-sour Thai sauce, nothing particularly house-made or fancy, but it worked. Overall, it was a solid dish and definitely enjoyable.









PLATS


Black Angus Ribeye with Pepper Sauce.

A very French — and honestly very American — kind of dish: meat and potatoes. I rarely eat beef in the U.S., but I do indulge more in France since the quality standards tend to be better and the meat isn’t pumped full of hormones and antibiotics.

I ordered it medium-rare and they nailed it. The steak was tender, and the pepper sauce was the perfect companion. The potatoes were good, though nothing particularly memorable. Overall, a solid, satisfying dish — just not anything revolutionary.




 

DESSERT 

Pistachio Crème Brûlée

We shared the desserts, and this was a first for us — pistachio crème brĂ»lĂ©e. The table really enjoyed it. It was beautifully made, with a perfectly thin caramelized sugar crust and a subtle pale green color, probably from the pistachio.

That said, while I liked it, I found it a bit too sweet, and the pistachio flavor didn’t fully shine as the star. Still, definitely a good dessert.

Chocolate Mousse

Now this was my favorite. I first had the chocolate mousse at their sister restaurant, Chez Janou, and loved it there just as much as I did here. Fair warning though: it is intensely rich.

The fun part is that it’s all-you-can-eat. The server brings out a massive bowl, spoons out what he thinks you can handle, then comes back later to tempt you with more. I could only manage two heaping spoonfuls, but honestly, those two bites delivered a deep, velvety chocolate punch that was absolutely worth it.


Domaine Richaud’s 2024 Cairanne Cru des CĂ´tes du RhĂ´ne 

Drinks like a classic Southern RhĂ´ne with a fresher, more lifted edge. Expect a nose full of ripe red berries, black cherry, wild herbs, cracked pepper, and a little garrigue — that earthy Provençal mix of thyme and lavender that RhĂ´ne lovers obsess over.

On the palate, it’s medium- to full-bodied with soft, polished tannins and a supple texture. You get layers of raspberry compote, plum, licorice, dark chocolate, and spice, balanced by enough freshness to keep it from feeling heavy.

The blend is typically Grenache-led with Mourvèdre, Syrah, and Carignan, coming from old vines planted in limestone, clay, and galet-strewn soils around Cairanne. Domaine Richaud is known for organic farming, low sulphur use, and a more natural, less manipulated style, so the wine tends to feel vibrant and alive rather than overly polished. (source:onwine)


SUMMARY 

It’s an extremely loud restaurant, so not exactly the place for deep intellectual conversations or a romantic dinner. But if you’re looking for simple, classic French comfort food in a lively atmosphere, this spot delivers.

On this particular Sunday, it was absolutely packed, so the service was pretty slow. That said, the staff were all very kind. For some people that might be frustrating, but honestly, when you live in Paris, you get used to it. Long meals are part of the culture — it gives everyone time to sit, talk, and catch up. Most Parisians don’t really entertain at home anyway, due to size restrictions, so cafĂ©s and restaurants become the living room.

It also seems especially popular with students, probably because it’s near the Sorbonne and the surrounding universities. It’s slightly off the beaten path from Rue Mouffetard, but still easy enough to find.

Now compared ompared to its famous sibling, Chez Janou, this spot feels just a touch more polished and enjoyable overall. Chez Janou has become something of a tourist institution in Paris, which comes with its own pros and cons — it’s lively, energetic, but also extremely loud, perpetually busy, and the service can swing from charming to completely overwhelmed depending on the day.

It’s not necessarily a quiet or intimate restaurant by any means, but compared to the frenzy of Chez Janou, it’s the kind of place where you can actually settle into the meal and enjoy the experience without feeling like you’re dining in the middle of a tourist stampede.

Would I go back? Sure. But it certainly wouldn't be a destination restaurant for me.


Costs

We had 2 bottles of Carianne = €82, coke = €5.50, 2 Crispy prawns = €24, 1 ravioli = €14, 1 Caesar salad = €13, 1 grilled prawns = €26, 2-steaks = €58, 1 chocolate mouse = €12, creme brulee = €9, 50cl of red wine = €18 our total came to €261.50 approximately €66 per person.

This seems quite expensive, so if you factor out the wines, which were pricey, the meal itself was not expensive, averaging only €40, which is very reasonable. 

Note: Going forward, if the wine ends up costing double — or more — than the food itself, I’ll factor that separately so you’ll have a better sense of the actual meal cost.

Thursday, May 14, 2026

L' Oiseau Blanc (Peninsula Hotel) -- Restaurant Review

 

For reservation, menu, directions, see website: https://www.peninsula.com/en/paris/hotel-fine-dining/french-rooftop-loiseau-blanc

 Rating Standards: 5-Stars = Extraordinary; 4-Stars = Excellent; 3-Stars = Average; 2-Stars = Fair; 1-Star = Poor € = Inexpensive: 30€ and under; €€ = Moderate: 31€-49€; €€€ = Expensive: €50 -75; €€€€ = Very Expensive: more than €76 (prices based on minimum 2-courses)


1-Bell = Pleasantly quiet (less than 65 decibels); 2-Bells = Can talk easily (65-70); 3-Bells = Talking normally gets difficult (70-80); 4-Bells = Can talk only in raised voices (75-90); BOMB = Too noisy for normal conversation (90+)



4.75 - stars ...................€................................  1--đź”” 

I don’t usually go to hotels for a meal unless there’s something truly exceptional about them. L’Oiseau Blanc — “The White Bird” — sits atop The Peninsula Paris beneath a spectacular glass dome with nearly 360-degree views over Paris, centered perfectly on the Eiffel Tower. The restaurant seats only about 40 guests, yet remarkably there isn’t a bad seat in the house — every table has a view. 

We had previously attended a private party at LiLi, the Peninsula’s elegant Cantonese restaurant known for its refined Chinese cuisine and dramatic opera-inspired interiors, and it was excellent. But what L’Oiseau Blanc has over LiLi is undeniably the view.

By the way, the restaurant holds two Michelin stars, and the chef, David Bizet, has quite an impressive background. Before coming to L’Oiseau Blanc, he spent 18 years at the legendary Four Seasons Hotel George V, rising through the ranks before leading both Le V and later L’Orangerie, where he earned his first Michelin star in 2017. He then moved to the iconic Le Taillevent, where he was awarded a second Michelin star in 2020. You can really sense that pedigree in the cooking — refined and creative, but never trying too hard.

We opted for the prix-fixe lunch menu at €125 each.

We started off with aperitifs, I had a kir royale an JJ had a pastis.


The amuse-bouche were fantastic. They started us off with a lovely little levain boule served with a special butter so colorful and rich that I had to ask about it. The waiter explained that the vibrant color came from carotene — the natural pigment found in vegetables like carrots, sweet potatoes, spinach, and kale. It was as beautiful as it was delicious.

Next came something called a baba, which I usually associate with dessert, but this version was savory — a soft dough soaked in a bouillabaisse-style sauce. Absolutely excellent.

The third course was a tiered selection of different amuse-bouche. The only one I distinctly remember was the artichoke, though honestly all three were outstanding.

Such a wonderful start to the meal.


Layered brioche.

They also served a bread with the first course that I’d be remiss not to mention. It was a savory brioche, layered almost like a delicate puff pastry — rich, buttery, and incredibly light.

Our waiter jokingly said, “It’s made with lots of butter — that’s why it tastes so good.” I mentioned how much I loved it, and without us even asking, he immediately brought over another order. Such a thoughtful touch.





Smoked sardine Green bean / cherry / almond / herbal zephyr.

Our entrĂ©e was beautifully simple in presentation. I have to say, the sardine was absolutely delicious. It was split down the middle and stuffed with herbs, with little crunchy bits throughout that I’m guessing came from almonds. On the side was a creamy green bean accompaniment that tied everything together perfectly. It felt incredibly refined and sophisticated without trying too hard. And for me, it was the ideal portion — small, elegant, and packed with flavor.





White asparagus Flame-seared / licorice / peppery shoot / bottarga

This white asparagus was as thick as my arm and perfectly grilled. I usually don’t care for white asparagus — I’ve always found it a bit bland and much prefer green — but this completely changed my mind. I honestly didn’t pick up much licorice, flavors but the greens added a nice freshness, while the bottarga brought a subtle salty depth.

It was served with a small dollop of berry sherbet, which sounded odd at first, but it actually worked beautifully. Since the entrée was served at room temperature, the tartness acted almost like a little palate cleanser before the next course.

Overall, it was a very clever, thoughtfully composed dish. Simple in presentation, but you could tell a lot of care went into developing it.





Burgundy rabbit Sea-water celtuce / cockle / Provençal herb / horseradish

 The rabbit was incredibly tender and succulent, and all of the accompanying elements worked beautifully together. Even the horseradish was mild and balanced.

Although the main dish looked small, it was packed with so much flavor that it ended up being incredibly satisfying.

They also served a small bowl of sea lettuce with shredded rabbit, but I found it far too salty to keep eating. Honestly, that was the only part of the meal I didn’t enjoy.

That said, like all the previous courses, the dish was meticulously composed — beautiful, artistic, and overall absolutely delicious.




Plate of cheese (off prix-fixe menu)

I’m trying to get back into the habit of cutting down on sugar, so instead of dessert I ordered a plate of assorted cheeses. The selection was excellent and nicely varied — each one unique and very tasty. Honestly, you can never go wrong with good cheese.








Spiced strawberry- XO sauce / grilled piquillo pepper / fresh curd cheese.  This was the included dessert of the prix-fixe menu.  Although you can't see it in the photo JJ was fascinated with a mouse-like filling that he was convinced was made with pureed sweet potato.  The dab of the XO sauce allowed the dish to be more lively and the surrounding 'cup' had its own delicious flavor. 









I had mentioned when making the reservation that it was JJ’s birthday, though I didn’t bring it up again at lunch and honestly almost forgot about it myself. So it was a lovely surprise when they brought out a chocolate statue perched atop a rich, nutty chocolate confection to celebrate the occasion. As beautiful as the statue was, the base was the real star — absolutely delicious.


Mignardise

As a parting gift, we were served a mignardise — a beautiful assortment of tiny bite-sized sweets. By that point I was absolutely full, but I decided to indulge anyway and sample them all. Sometimes it’s impossible to resist one last moment of decadence.







Guiberteau 2022 Saumur, red wine 

Domaine Guiberteau is one of the Loire Valley’s most respected producers, run by Romain Guiberteau, who took over the family estate in the mid-1990s after training alongside the legendary Clos Rougeard team. The domaine has roots going back to the early 1900s and is known for meticulous organic farming and incredibly precise expressions of Cabernet Franc and Chenin Blanc grown on the limestone soils of Saumur and BrĂ©zĂ©.

The 2022 Saumur Rouge is made from 100% Cabernet Franc and really captures the elegance the Loire so well. In the glass, it’s bright and expressive with notes of red cherry, raspberry, plum, crushed herbs, graphite, peppercorn, and a little earthy smokiness. There’s also that classic Loire Cabernet Franc freshness — vibrant acidity with silky tannins rather than anything heavy or overly oaked.

What makes the 2022 vintage especially interesting is that Guiberteau intentionally used a gentler extraction to keep the wine fresh and balanced despite the warmer vintage. The result is a wine that feels juicy, layered, and incredibly drinkable now, while still having enough structure to age beautifully for several years.

It’s the kind of red that feels refined without being pretentious — elegant, mineral-driven, and extremely food friendly. Perfect with rabbit, duck, charcuterie, mushrooms, or anything earthy and savory. (from wine source)


SUMMARY

This isn’t the kind of restaurant you visit regularly — it’s a place for special occasions, and the prices reflect that. We chose the Seasonal Flight lunch prix-fixe, available only at lunch (except holidays), which starts at €125 per person for four courses, not including the amuse-bouche and mignardises. The full Seasonal Flight tasting menu is €425 per person for eight courses. I saw a few tables order it, and honestly, it looked like an incredible amount of food — far more than I could ever finish.

Part of the experience is also the setting. Beneath its glass dome, the restaurant offers nearly 360-degree views of Paris, with the Eiffel Tower stealing the show. The service is polished and attentive without ever feeling stiff, and the smaller dining room gives it a more intimate atmosphere.

As for the food, each dish felt like a work of art — beautifully composed and layered with flavor. The only dish I didn’t particularly enjoy was the sea lettuce with rabbit served alongside the main course, mainly because I found it a bit too salty. I was leaning toward giving the experience a 4.5 overall because of that one misstep, but the thoughtful birthday surprise they brought out for JJ — completely unprompted — easily won me back over. Did I mention the service is really excellent, 

The restaurant holds two Michelin stars, and after dining there, it’s easy to understand why. They’re absolutely deserved. Would we go back? Without hesitation — once I’ve recovered financially.


Costs

For 2 prix-fixe = €250, kir royale = €36, Pastis = €25, Sparkling water = €18, Evian = €16, Saumur wine = €95, tea = €18.  Total costs was €458.

If you go for dinner, expect to pay well over €1,000

Thursday, May 7, 2026

Le Coupe-Chou -- Restaurant review

For general information, reservations, menu & directions see website: https://en.lecoupechou.com/

 Rating Standards: 5-Stars = Extraordinary; 4-Stars = Excellent; 3-Stars = Average; 2-Stars = Fair; 1-Star = Poor € = Inexpensive: 30€ and under; €€ = Moderate: 31€-49€; €€€ = Expensive: €50 -75; €€€€ = Very Expensive: more than €76 (prices based on minimum 2-courses)


1-Bell = Pleasantly quiet (less than 65 decibels); 2-Bells = Can talk easily (65-70); 3-Bells = Talking normally gets difficult (70-80); 4-Bells = Can talk only in raised voices (75-90); BOMB = Too noisy for normal conversation (90+)



4.0 - stars ...................€.................................  2--đź”” 


We went to this restaurant in the 5eme for a birthday celebration of a dear friend of ours. His spouse treated us to this fabulous dinner. This building has a lot of history. 

While restoring the cellars at Le Coupe-Chou, the owners uncovered ruins from a 2nd-century Gallo-Roman settlement dating back to the time of Marcus Aurelius — including hot water pipes, a Roman bath, pottery, statuettes, and medieval street plaques. Some of those historic plaques, altered during the French Revolution, are now displayed behind the bar.





The inside had three different levels. Le Coupe-Chou is made up of four interconnected houses dating back to the 14th, 16th, and 17th centuries, with small stairways and narrow passageways linking the rooms together. After two years of restoration, historical research, and treasure hunting through antique shops, the space was lovingly brought back to its old-world charm.

It honestly felt as though we were dining inside a medieval castle. If I’m being honest, the layout was a bit awkward at times, but it hardly mattered. The ambiance completely transported you back in time and made the experience all the more memorable.


NOTE: I'm only going to review the meals I had or tasted


Escargot. 

I figured since it was such an old-school French restaurant, I had to go with a classic starter — the escargot.

And let’s be honest, escargot is never really about the snails. It’s all about the sauce.

This one was exactly how it should be: rich, buttery, loaded with garlic and parsley, and absolutely delicious. I honestly could’ve eaten another order. Our poor spouses, however, probably had to endure garlic breath for the next few days.






Herb-crusted pork tenderloin, cauliflower purée, port reduced jus.

The pork was cooked perfectly — tender, flavorful, and absolutely delicious. At first glance, it looked like it was served over mashed potatoes, but it was actually a cauliflower purĂ©e. The flavor was nice, and I do like cauliflower, but the purĂ©e was a bit looser than I would’ve preferred. With less liquid, the texture could have been much smoother and more refined.









Crème brulée à la fève de tonka

Sticking with the classics, a friend and I shared the crème brĂ»lĂ©e. It was quite good, though I personally found it a touch too sweet. The caramelized sugar gave way with a satisfying crackle as we broke through to the custard beneath. The custard itself was light and delicious—again, slightly sweeter than I prefer—but overall, it was an enjoyable dessert.








I've started drinking more red wine, since that's what the doctor recommended after my heart surgery. So I'm not familiar with red wines at all. A friend recommended this and it was fantastic. Went well with all our meals. 

From wine source: The Jean-Max Roger Sancerre Rouge Cuvée from Bué, in the Cher region of France, is an elegant Pinot Noir that beautifully reflects the character of the Loire Valley. Light-bodied and refined, it offers bright aromas of red cherry, raspberry, and wild strawberry, with subtle earthy notes and a touch of spice. On the palate, it is silky and fresh, with soft tannins, lively acidity, and a smooth, balanced finish. A charming and approachable red that pairs wonderfully with poultry, charcuterie, or soft cheeses.





SUMMARY 

Talk about history. Dining here truly felt like stepping back in time. More than a restaurant, it felt as though you were welcomed into someone’s home, filled with cozy old-world charm and character. The service was excellent. Our server, who was half Dutch and half French, was warm, attentive, and helped make our friend’s birthday celebration feel especially memorable.

As for the food, we stuck with the classics, and honestly, they were very good. It was clear this is a popular destination for tourists—the dining room was filled almost entirely with visitors—but there’s nothing wrong with that. Despite its popularity with tourists, the restaurant still delivered quality food and a genuinely charming experience. The only small note I would make is that I wished the purĂ©ed cauliflower had a bit more substance and texture, as it leaned slightly on the watery side for my taste.

Would we return? Absolutely. It’s the kind of place you bring out-of-town guests to experience a bit of old-world ambiance and history.


Costs

For one cocktail, two bottles of Sancerre, four entrĂ©es, six plats, and four desserts, our bill came to €429, or about €71.50 per person. Considering the two bottles of wine alone totaled €120, the food portion worked out to roughly €51.50 per person—not bad at all for good food, excellent service, and such a lovely ambiance.