Brasserie Lazare Paris -- Restaurant Review

 

For logstics, reservations, directions: https://lazare-paris.fr/menu/

Rating Standards: 5-Stars = Extraordinary; 4-Stars = Excellent; 3-Stars = Average; 2-Stars = Fair; 1-Star = Poor € = Inexpensive: 30€ and under; €€ = Moderate: 31€-49€; €€€ = Expensive: €50 -75; €€€€ = Very Expensive: more than €76 (prices based on minimum 2-courses) 

1-Bell = Pleasantly quiet (less than 65 decibels); 2-Bells = Can talk easily (65-70); 3-Bells = Talking normally gets difficult (70-80); 4-Bells = Can talk only in raised voices (75-90); BOMB = Too noisy for normal conversation (90+)

3.75- stars .................€€€.................  Interior BOMB (Interior), 🔔 🔔 (Exterior)  

(Note: value based without wine, see details in summary)

Finding a restaurant that worked for all three of us wasn't easy—we were literally coming from opposite sides of Paris (east, south, and west). To make things even more challenging, we were meeting on a Monday night, when many of Paris's restaurants are typically closed. I finally settled on this one, conveniently located right inside Gare Saint-Lazare. That turned out to be a great choice because service was leisurely, and we didn't leave until after 11 p.m. Thankfully, all of our Métro lines were just steps away, making the trip home easy for everyone.

As soon as I walked in, I recognized the place. A French friend had brought me here for lunch years ago. I'd never reviewed it, but I remembered it being quiet, comfortable, and serving good food, but we went during off season. 

BTW, this is a large restaurant, it can accomodate: 

Main dining room: 140–180 guests

Terrace: 40–60 guests 

As soon as we walked in, the first thing I noticed was that the restaurant was packed—and incredibly loud. I suspect the recent heatwave played a big part, with locals and tourists alike flocking to one of the few air-conditioned restaurants in Paris. The noise was so intense that my iPhone warned me the sound level could be harmful. I checked my decibel meter: 85+ dB, which falls into the "extremely loud" range where prolonged exposure can contribute to hearing damage.

Once everyone arrived, we decided to brave the warm evening and move outside. Unsurprisingly, they had a table. Ironically, most diners seemed to prefer the obnoxiously noisy, air-conditioned dining room over the much quieter terrace—and we were more than happy to take advantage of that.

They have a prix-fixe menu at €49 for 3-courses.

Now onto the food. I'm reviewing only the dishes I had. For convenience I will translate the dish into English.

ENTREE

Chicken and Foie Gras Pâté en Croûte, beetroot pickles

The presentation was simple and understated. The pâté en croûte was well seasoned and flavorful, but both the filling and the pastry were denser than ideal. A great pâté en croûte should strike a balance between a moist, tender filling and a light, flaky crust.

The pickled beetroot added a welcome touch of acidity, cutting through the richness and bringing balance to the dish. While the texture kept it from being exceptional, it was still an enjoyable starter overall.

PLAT 

Roasted chicken supreme with thyme, lemon gnocchi and olive jus

This looked like a hearty dish from the moment it arrived. If you're a fan of lemon, you'll love it—the flavors were definitely lemon-forward. The gnocchi were a standout: light, tender, and perfectly cooked, never gummy. The olives added a welcome savory contrast, while the roasted cherry tomatoes brought sweetness without overpowering the dish.

Overall, I really enjoyed it. If I had one criticism, the chicken was just a touch dry. That said, considering the sheer volume this kitchen produces—the restaurant can easily seat over 200 diners at a time—it's understandable. I'd happily order this dish again, and hope I get a more moist chicken, cause the flavors were all there. 

DESSERTS

Trou Normand (green apple sorbet and Calvados)

On a warm summer evening, it's hard to beat a sorbet, so that was an easy choice. It may look like a simple dessert, but the real star was the Calvados. If you're unfamiliar with it, think of Calvados as the apple equivalent of cognac—a distilled apple brandy with notes of baked apples, vanilla, and spice.

The kitchen certainly didn't skimp on the Calvados. A pleasant surprise was the chunks of apple folded into the sorbet, adding both texture and flavor. Better yet, any Calvados left in the glass could be enjoyed as a little after-dinner cocktail.

A refreshing and memorable finish to an excellent meal.

WINES

By Ott 2024 Côtes de Provence

This pale Provence rosé was the perfect companion on a warm Paris evening. Bright and refreshing, it offered delicate notes of white peach, apricot, and citrus with a crisp mineral finish. Elegant, balanced, and easy to drink, it's exactly what you hope for from a quality Côtes de Provence rosé.

SUMMARY

I've always believed that a restaurant experience begins the moment you make a reservation and doesn't end until you walk out the door. My previous visit was for lunch during the off-season, so this was a very different experience. I suspect the extraordinary crowds were largely due to the European heatwave. Finding an air-conditioned restaurant in Paris—especially one that's open on a Monday—is no easy feat.

Despite the crowds, the staff remained gracious and professional, especially the maître d'. It was clear they were stretched thin. We eventually escaped the deafening dining room for the terrace, where they happily accommodated us. Our table was a bit awkwardly tucked into a corner, making it difficult to get in and out, but that was a small price to pay for a quieter setting.

The food was consistently good, particularly considering the restaurant's impressive volume. My only real criticism was the pacing. There was an unusually long wait between the starters and main courses, even by Parisian standards and while I don't fault the staff, the timing noticeably affected the overall experience.

So how do you rate a restaurant where the food is good, the staff is warm and welcoming, but the service is uneven and the indoor dining room is nearly unbearable? For me, it comes down to balance. The strengths outweighed the weaknesses, but the shortcomings were significant enough to keep this from being a truly outstanding meal. 

With three prix-fixe menus at €49each, 1-bottle water €5.50, 1-bottle wine €39, 1-calamari starter €16 (JJ loved it), 1-fish and chips €20 (JJ said it was terrible). Total bill rounded to €59 each.

Air Conditioning in Paris -- "Canicule" June 2026

Why Air Conditioning 

Never Really Caught On in Paris

Visitors are often surprised to discover that many apartments, cafés, and even some hotels and hospitals in Paris still don't have air conditioning. While this may seem unusual to those from countries where AC is considered essential, the reasons are rooted in history, culture, architecture, economics, and environmental policy.

A Deeply Rooted Cultural Belief

One of the biggest factors is a long-held cultural belief that cold drafts ("les courants d'air") can make you sick. Although modern medicine doesn't support the idea that a cool breeze itself causes illness, many French people were raised to believe that sudden changes in temperature can lead to colds, sore throats, stiff necks, or muscle pain. As a result, you'll often find windows quickly closed if there's a draft, even on warm days.

(Yes. I've actually seen people "scarf up" when a strong fan was present)

A City Built Before Air Conditioning

Paris's architecture also plays a major role. Much of the city consists of beautiful Haussmann-era buildings constructed during the 19th century—decades before air conditioning existed. These historic buildings were designed to stay comfortable naturally, with thick limestone walls, high ceilings, tall windows, exterior shutters, and cross ventilation. Until recently, these features were usually enough to keep homes reasonably cool during the summer.

Paris: A Living Museum

There's another factor that's easy to overlook: many Parisians view their city as a living museum. Paris is celebrated worldwide for its elegant limestone façades, wrought-iron balconies, and remarkably uniform streetscapes. The idea of attaching thousands of metal air-conditioning units to these historic buildings strikes many residents as visually intrusive. After all, if you wouldn't bolt modern equipment onto the exterior of a museum, why would you want to alter one of the world's most iconic cityscapes? Preserving the beauty and architectural integrity of Paris has long been considered just as important as modern convenience.

Historic Preservation Comes First

Installing modern air conditioning isn't always straightforward. Many apartment buildings are protected for their historic appearance, and adding outdoor compressor units often requires approval from the building's co-owners or local authorities. Even when installation is permitted, residents may object because of concerns about aesthetics, noise, or preserving the character of the building.

(Notice no a/c compressors)

The Cost vs. The Need

Economics has also influenced the French attitude toward air conditioning. For much of the last century, Paris experienced only a few very hot days each summer. Spending several thousand euros on a system that might only be used for a couple of weeks each year simply didn't seem worthwhile.

An Environmental Mindset

Environmental concerns have also shaped public policy. Air conditioners consume significant amounts of electricity and release heat outdoors, contributing to the "urban heat island" effect that makes cities even warmer. Instead of encouraging widespread residential air conditioning, France has traditionally promoted passive cooling measures such as better insulation, shutters, trees, ventilation, and energy-efficient building design.

Climate Change Is Changing Minds

However, climate change is beginning to reshape these long-standing attitudes. Heatwaves are becoming more frequent, lasting longer, and reaching temperatures that were once considered exceptional. During recent summers, Paris has experienced temperatures above 40°C (104°F), making traditional cooling methods far less effective.

As a result, more Parisians are purchasing portable air conditioners and split systems, and businesses increasingly advertise "climatisation" as a selling point. Demand for cooling equipment has surged during heatwaves, with many retailers temporarily selling out of air conditioners.

A Uniquely Parisian Solution

Rather than relying solely on individual air conditioning units, Paris is expanding an innovative district cooling network that circulates chilled water through underground pipes to cool offices, museums, hospitals, and public buildings. It's an energy-efficient approach that reflects the city's commitment to reducing emissions while adapting to a warming climate.

A City Slowly Adapting

Paris hasn't rejected air conditioning out of stubbornness alone. Its cautious approach reflects centuries of architectural design, cultural traditions, environmental priorities, and a climate that, until recently, rarely demanded mechanical cooling. But as summers continue to grow hotter, it's clear that attitudes are changing. Air conditioning is no longer viewed as an unnecessary luxury by many Parisians—it's increasingly becoming a practical response to a changing climate.

(the fear) 

My sentiments

After living in Paris since 2008, I've come to appreciate both sides of the debate. I still enjoy the comfort of air conditioning during a canicule, but I also understand why Parisians have been reluctant to cover one of the world's most beautiful cities with thousands of metal compressor units. As the climate changes, Paris is changing too—carefully, thoughtfully, and, as always, in its own uniquely French way.

Bistrotters-- Restaurant Review

For information, reservations = https://www.bistrotters.com/

Rating Standards: 5-Stars = Extraordinary; 4-Stars = Excellent; 3-Stars = Average; 2-Stars = Fair; 1-Star = Poor € = Inexpensive: 30€ and under; €€ = Moderate: 31€-49€; €€€ = Expensive: €50 -75; €€€€ = Very Expensive: more than €76 (prices based on minimum 2-courses) 

1-Bell = Pleasantly quiet (less than 65 decibels); 2-Bells = Can talk easily (65-70); 3-Bells = Talking normally gets difficult (70-80); 4-Bells = Can talk only in raised voices (75-90); BOMB = Too noisy for normal conversation (90+)

4.50 - stars ...................€€.................................  80 DECIBELS, 4-🔔

(Note: value based without wine, see details in summary)

Believe it or not, finding an air-conditioned restaurant in Paris that's open on a Monday isn't as easy as it sounds—unless you're dining at a hotel restaurant or splurging on a Michelin-starred address.

So, during this canicule (HEATWAVE) I made it my mission to find a restaurant that checked two essential boxes: #1 Air-conditioned and #2 Open on a Monday.

If you don't already know, many Paris restaurants—and even a surprising number of cafés—close on Sundays and especially Mondays. That can make dining options pretty slim.

We lucked out and discovered Bistrotters, just a 30-minute walk from our apartment. Not only does it have air conditioning, but it's also open seven days a week. As I approached the entrance, I noticed the windows were covered with accolades and awards. I thought, well, this looks promising.

I already knew they turned tables, so the only reservation I could snag at the last minute was 7:00 p.m. Normally, I'd say that's far too early for dinner—especially during a canicule when it's still blazing hot outside—but when air conditioning is involved, compromises must be made.

In fact, we arrived a few minutes early and had to wait outside because they literally don't unlock the doors until 7:00 p.m. sharp.

The interior was cozy—very cozy. In fact, I'd say it crossed the line from cozy to Parisian intimacy. Since we were the first guests to arrive, we had the chance to take in the space before the evening rush began.

The restaurant is divided into two dining rooms. The rear room feels a bit like a long, wide hallway, lined with orange banquettes and situated directly in front of the kitchen. The front room serves as the main dining area, with large windows that open onto the street, filling the space with natural light and giving it a classic neighborhood bistro feel.

As the restaurant filled up, "cozy" took on a whole new meaning. The tables are packed tightly together, and by the end of the evening we were definitely more than neighbors to the diners at the next table—we were practically sharing the same ZIP code.

If the weather cooperates, you can also dine al fresco. However, during a canicule, outdoor seating wasn't even a consideration for us—we were there for one reason: air conditioning.

For those visiting in cooler weather, I'd choose the front dining room for its bright, open atmosphere and street views. But during a heat wave, the back room is the clear winner, as it's where the air-conditioning vent is located and where you'll find the coolest seats in the house.

Note: I'm only reviewing the dishes I had.

ENTRÉE

Encornets en persillade, créme de fenouil, courgettes et poivrons sautés. (Squid in parsley and garlic, fennel cream, sautéed zucchini with bell peppers)

Maybe it was the heat, but I honestly expected this dish to be served cold. Instead, it arrived warm. Truth be told, I probably would have preferred it chilled, but that didn't stop it from being absolutely delicious.

The light and airy fennel cream tied all the elements together beautifully, but the real star of the show was the squid. It was cooked to perfection—so tender it practically melted in your mouth. Anyone who has ever cooked squid knows that's no easy feat.

There was also a surprise tuile, and I could immediately tell it was made with squid ink, thanks to its distinctive briny flavor, nice touch. It added both texture and an extra layer of complexity to the dish.

The entire entrée was beautifully composed, with every element working in harmony. In fact, it was my favorite dish of the evening.

NOTE: I have to admit, one of my dining pet peeves is when restaurants don't replace the utensils between courses—especially after a dish with a creamy sauce. The last thing I want is  fennel cream making an unexpected appearance in my next course.

I've also noticed that some restaurants seem more diligent about changing utensils for French diners than for tourists. Whether that's intentional or simply oversight, I can't say. In any case, when our next course arrived, I politely asked for fresh utensils. It's a small detail, but one that I think makes a difference in the overall dining experience.

PLATS PRINCIPAL

Called des Vosges farcie à l’estragon, jus au cidre, gnocchi de panais, épinard. (Voges Quail stuffed with tarragon, cider jus, parsnip gnocchis, spinach) 

I love quail, although when it's served whole it can sometimes be a bit challenging to eat. Here, the bird was presented thoughtfully, with the body stuffed with tarragon while the legs remained intact, making for a rustic yet elegant presentation.

The accompanying jus was excellent—light, flavorful, and beautifully balanced. It tasted like a true reduction rather than a sauce thickened with flour or roux. Interestingly, it had a subtle sweetness that caught my attention. I found myself wondering whether the chef had added just a touch of honey or sugar to round out the flavors. Whatever the secret, it worked. The quail itself was moist, tender, and full of flavor.

The gnocchi were equally impressive. Perfectly cooked, they were light and delicate rather than dense or gummy. My guess is that the addition of parsnips helped, as they're less starchy than potatoes and lend a subtle sweetness of their own.

If I had one minor criticism, it would be the spinach. For my taste, it leaned a little too sweet, especially alongside a dish that already featured several naturally sweet elements. Still, that's a small quibble in what was otherwise a very satisfying plate.

DESSERT

Chou praliné aux noix de pécan, ganache au chocolat et glace vanille. (Pecan praline choux pastry, chocolate ganache, and vanilla ice cream)

I don't normally order dessert, but the ice cream on this one practically called my name.

The chou pastry was just a touch tougher than I would have liked, but in the end it's really just a vehicle for the chocolate ganache. Fortunately, the kitchen got the ganache exactly right. Rather than being overly dense and rich, it was silky, creamy, and surprisingly light.

As for the ice cream, it was the perfect ending to a sweltering evening. Refreshing, cool, and full of flavor, it provided a welcome respite from the canicule outside. I could easily have eaten more, although for someone who is lactose intolerant, a few spoonfuls were probably just the right amount.

Overall, it was a very enjoyable dessert—thoughtfully balanced, not overly sweet, and a satisfying finish to an excellent meal.

WINES

Al Muvedra-Tinto Monastrell 2024

To accompany our meal, we selected the 2024 A-Muñoz Monastrell from Alicante, Spain, produced by Telmo Rodríguez. Monastrell (known as Mourvèdre in France) thrives in the hot Mediterranean climate, and this youthful wine showcased all the freshness and vibrancy the grape can offer. In the glass, it delivered aromas of black cherry, ripe plum, and blackberry, accented by subtle notes of wild Mediterranean herbs and a touch of spice.

What I appreciated most was its balance. While fruit-forward and approachable, it wasn't jammy or heavy. Soft tannins and bright acidity kept the wine lively and refreshing, making it an excellent companion to the meal rather than competing with it. It paired particularly well with the quail, complementing the tarragon stuffing and savory jus while adding just enough fruit and spice to round out each bite. An honest, well-made Spanish red that punches well above its price point.

NOTE: This wine is normally served lightly chilled, which it was, and perfect for a warm summer's night. 

SUMMARY

Unless you're in the know, you're probably not going to stumble across this restaurant. Had I not been specifically researching air-conditioned restaurants during the canicule, we likely would never have discovered it.

Located in a part of the 14th arrondissement that few tourists venture into, Bistrotters feels very much like a neighborhood gem. In fact, aside from us and a large group of international workers led by a French colleague, the clientele appeared to be almost entirely local. After experiencing the food, it's easy to understand why the restaurant has earned so many accolades over the years.

As the evening progressed, the noise level definitely rose—largely thanks to the international group seated nearby. One particularly enthusiastic German woman could probably have been heard halfway across the arrondissement. For once, I didn't feel like the loud American in the room.

Would we return? Absolutely. With food this good, reliable air conditioning, and the restaurant only a 30-minute walk from our apartment, I have a feeling we'll be back sooner rather than later.

For 3-people, we had 2-three course prix-fixe meals @€47 each, 1- two course meals @€39, a soda @€8, and a bottle of wine at €37, our total came to €178 or €59/person. Without the wine, it would've been €141 or €47/person. 

NOTE: they do turn tables have 2 seatings: 7 pm and 9 pm. 

Erso -- Restaurant Review

 

For information, address, reservations, refer to website: www.erso-restaurant.fr 

Rating Standards: 5-Stars = Extraordinary; 4-Stars = Excellent; 3-Stars = Average; 2-Stars = Fair; 1-Star = Poor € = Inexpensive: 30€ and under; €€ = Moderate: 31€-49€; €€€ = Expensive: €50 -75; €€€€ = Very Expensive: more than €76 (prices based on minimum 2-courses) 

1-Bell = Pleasantly quiet (less than 65 decibels); 2-Bells = Can talk easily (65-70); 3-Bells = Talking normally gets difficult (70-80); 4-Bells = Can talk only in raised voices (75-90); BOMB = Too noisy for normal conversation (90+)

4.50 - stars ...................€€€.................................  3-🔔

We live in Paris, so we don't usually research restaurants before going out. If a place looks interesting, we simply give it a try. We have friends in Nice who, whenever they come to Paris, like to do a little research before choosing where to eat. Every restaurant they've recommended has been a winner, and this one is no exception. Consider it another well-deserved addition to their growing list of hits.

As many of you know, I love restaurants with an open kitchen. To me, it says a lot about a place—you can see how cleanly they work, how organized they are, and how the team interacts under pressure. I’ve always believed that a happy kitchen is a good sign that good food is on the way.

We sat right at the kitchen counter, giving us a front-row seat to the action. I was fascinated watching 4 or 5 people working together in such a small, narrow space. They moved with incredible precision, like a perfectly choreographed dance—each person knowing exactly where to be and what to do without missing a beat.  

The restaurant is small and cozy—very typical of Paris, where every square meter is put to good use. They also offer counter seating for two, which is a nice option if you enjoy being close to the action.

One practical tip: if you're someone who makes frequent trips to the restroom, I'd recommend requesting a table in the main dining room or an aisle seat. The tables are arranged quite close together, as is often the case in Paris. That said, it never felt cramped or uncomfortable—just intimate and full of charm.


NOTE:  I'm only going to review the dishes I had. 

There were no prix-fixe menus, you order a-la-carte.

Smoked tuna with hay Tarama sardines -- Nikka Whiskey, black pear pickles, nori seaweed, wild asparagus from the grill, white garlic. 

When the entrée arrived, my first impression was that it was a simple yet beautifully composed dish. As our server explained the preparation, however, I realized there was nothing simple about it. The intricate combination of ingredients and the painstaking process behind each element highlighted the French commitment to achieving a very specific flavor profile. They truly embrace the idea that great cuisine is built through layers of technique and attention to detail.

The tuna was exceptionally fresh, while the sardines were surprisingly mild and delicate. What impressed me most was that, despite the many flavors and components surrounding the dish, the tuna remained the undisputed star. It felt as though the accompanying garlic, nori, and other elements existed solely to showcase and elevate the fish rather than compete with it. The result was a beautifully balanced plate and, without question, my favorite dish of the evening.

Lamb in two courses. Rack of lamb -- candied shoulder in shizo leaf, artichoke mousseline -- tahini artichokes pepper lacquers unagi, kumquat condiment, melilot gel, lamb juice.

This was not a dish for everyone. The lamb was served quite rare, and while I don't normally eat rare meat, I have to admit it was delicious.

Visually, it wasn't the most appealing presentation. My main criticism is that the rack of lamb had not been fully trimmed, leaving a thick layer of fat that is typically removed. That said, the jus was excellent—rich, flavorful, and beautifully executed.

The artichoke hearts were not cooked as much as I would have preferred and had a slightly thorny texture. In contrast, the creamed artichokes were absolutely delicious, providing a smooth and satisfying counterpoint.

On the other hand, the confit—described on the menu as candied—was outstanding. The shiso leaf was a thoughtful addition, bringing a touch of freshness that the dish needed and helping to balance the richness of the other components.

Overall, the flavors were very good, and there was a lot to admire. With a few refinements, however, this dish could easily be elevated to the next level.

Orange blossom semolina cake. creamy dulce, cherries, cigarette tile - fennel seeds, thyme-lemon ice cream

JJ ordered this dessert. I'm not a big fan of semolina, as I tend to find it a bit too grainy for my taste. That said, I thought it was a well-composed dessert with a nice balance of flavors and textures.

Jack, on the other hand, thought it was very good, so I'll defer to his judgment since I don't eat many desserts. What I did particularly enjoy were the creamy dulce de leche, the cherries, and the cigarette tuile. The thyme-lemon ice cream was excellent, and the fennel seeds added an unexpected but pleasant aromatic touch.

Overall, if I'm being honest, while the semolina wasn't my favorite component, the accompanying elements came together nicely and made for an enjoyable dessert.

Chateau Roubine -- Cru Classé

This was perfect for a warm summer night. The Château Roubine Cru Classé Rosé is a classic Provence rosé—elegant, refreshing, and beautifully balanced. Pale salmon in color, it offered delicate aromas of white peach, citrus, and wild berries, along with subtle floral and herbal notes. On the palate, crisp acidity and a touch of minerality complemented flavors of stone fruit and grapefruit, leading to a clean, lingering finish. Light yet complex, it was an easy-drinking wine that paired exceptionally well with the meal, refreshing the palate without overshadowing the food.

SUMMARY

This was a great restaurant find. While the space is compact and tables are set close together, the ambiance is warm and inviting. The service was excellent, and our waitperson, who had lived in Australia for several years, spoke with an Aussie accent that I found quite charming.

There is no prix-fixe dinner menu, but the à la carte prices are very reasonable. The menu itself is small—which, as many of you know, I consider a positive. A focused menu allows the kitchen to concentrate on fewer dishes and execute them at a higher level.

Overall, the food was delicious, though I do think the lamb dish could use some refinement. Leaving the thick layer of fat on the rack of lamb didn't work for me, and the dish would have benefited from a fresher element to balance its richness. Artichokes, while flavorful, naturally lend a somewhat gray appearance to a plate, so a brighter component could have enhanced both the presentation and the overall balance. These are relatively minor adjustments, however, and with a little tweaking, this dish could be exceptional.  Would we return, absolutely.


Costs -- 1-sparkling water, 1-glass of red, 1-bottle of rosé, 7-entreés, 5-plats, 3-desseerts, Our total bill came to €362.50 or €60.42 per person (there were 6 of us). Minus the wine, It would've been €53.91.

Bistro Instinct -- Restaurant Review

€ 

For information, reservations, menu, check their website: https://bistrotinstinctparis3.fr/fr

Rating Standards: 5-Stars = Extraordinary; 4-Stars = Excellent; 3-Stars = Average; 2-Stars = Fair; 1-Star = Poor € = Inexpensive: 30€ and under; €€ = Moderate: 31€-49€; €€€ = Expensive: €50 -75; €€€€ = Very Expensive: more than €76 (prices based on minimum 2-courses) 

1-Bell = Pleasantly quiet (less than 65 decibels); 2-Bells = Can talk easily (65-70); 3-Bells = Talking normally gets difficult (70-80); 4-Bells = Can talk only in raised voices (75-90); BOMB = Too noisy for normal conversation (90+)

4.70 - stars ...................€€€.................................  BOMB

This is a restaurant recommended from close friends who live close and swear by it, so we went.

Bistrot Instinct is in the Michelin Guide, though it doesn’t currently have a Bib Gourmand. A lot of people assume it does because the food is excellent without the usual Michelin-level sticker shock, and the whole vibe is relaxed, lively, and very “cool Paris neighborhood bistrot” rather than white-tablecloth ceremony. Michelin describes it as serving market-fresh, modern bistronomic cuisine with updated classics, and it’s built quite the reputation in the Haut-Marais among Paris food lovers for creative seasonal cooking that still feels fun and approachable. All true.

It was a bit of a challenge finding the street, you have to traverse through different small streets, so I suggest you use google maps.

The interior is very compact and intimate, maybe seating for around 30 people total. Since we went during the current Paris heatwave, the room was… let’s just say authentically warm. Oh well. Adds to the experience, non?

They offered both the regular à la carte menu and a seasonal tasting menu for €68 per person, with an optional drink pairing for another €28 that included cocktails, sparkling wine, and wine throughout the meal. Three of us went for the tasting menu with the pairings and honestly, it felt very reasonably priced for the quality. Then again, this is Paris, where you can still find genuinely excellent wine without the absurd markups.

What surprised me most was that almost everyone dining there seemed to be foreign. Considering it’s tucked away and not exactly easy to stumble upon, I just assumed it'd be a local restaurant, but Bistrot Instinct is clearly becoming something of a destination restaurant.

A cold, refreshing jasmine tea arrived with a slice of dried citrus. I have to say, it was such a welcome relief on such a warm evening. Light, floral, and incredibly refreshing. More surprisingly, I’d never had a herbal tea served over ice in Paris before. Thank you, Buddha.

Amuse-bouche: mackerel over Japanese crackers. Another welcome start to the meal, especially since it was served at room temperature. The mackerel lacked that overly strong fishy taste it can sometimes have, and the crackers somehow managed to stay perfectly crisp. A very good beginning.

Entree #1 Artichoke, brown butter, Parmesan, basil. At first glance, the dish looked quite copious, though I joked that half of it was air. In reality, it was a beautiful composition of artichokes in different forms: tender leaves, velvety artichoke purée, and, best of all, a perfectly poached egg. Much to my surprise, the egg was flawlessly cooked despite the dish being served at room temperature. Everything worked together beautifully, with a few crunchy strands scattered throughout for texture. Light, elegant, and very satisfying.

Wine Pairing, Preamble,  it’s actually an English sparkling wine rather than French, though stylistically it drinks very much like a refined grower Champagne.  JJ, not usually a white wine drinker and never champagne, liked it and said it tasted similar to cider which he does like.

Entree #2. Green Asparagus Tempura

Hay-Smoked Trout, Candied Egg Yolk, Nori Seaweed, Lemon Kosho, and Yuzu.
Very simple dish in appearance, but I'm sure a lot of effort was made to compose this dish.  The tempura asparagus had a wonderful crunch while the asparagus itself stayed soft yet still firm. It was surrounded by lightly blanched asparagus, adding a fresh contrast. I didn’t really pick up much nori, but the lemon and yuzu came through beautifully, giving the dish a bright citrus lift. The warm tempura against the cool vegetables made for a really lovely combination of both textures and temperatures.

Pairing: Domaine de Cantaussel’s Aucel Blanc is bright, fresh, and wonderfully easy to drink. Made from 100% Vermentino, it opens with citrus, white flowers, and a touch of exotic fruit. On the palate, there’s crisp minerality balanced by notes of white peach, lemon, and stone fruit, with a clean, lightly spicy finish. Refreshing without being too sharp, and perfect for warm evenings or seafood dishes.

Pork Loin Maitre d'Hôtel Butter, Dauphine Potatoes, Miso, Pak Choi, Kimchi, Verjus. Our waiter told us it was veal, but honestly, it tasted more like pork to me, so I’m just calling it “whatever meat.” Hard to fully tell since the dish was covered in a very rich, heavily reduced stock. Still, it was a very good, hearty course. If I’m being honest though, this was probably my least favorite of the evening, simply because it was a bit too rich for my palate. The pommes dauphine were nicely crisp, although the coating leaned slightly salty. The kimchi was thankfully mild, so as not to overwhelm the dish and added brightness without overpowering the dish.

Pairings: Paul Bueches, Les Terrasses Pinot Noir. Light and elegant, with bright notes of cherry, raspberry, and wild strawberry balanced by subtle earthiness and soft spice. Smooth tannins, fresh acidity, and a silky finish make it easy to drink without feeling heavy. A classic, food-friendly Pinot Noir style.

Dessert: Red Berry Cookie

Strawberry, Pepper, Lovage, Cherry, Mascarpone Cream. A great finish to the meal. The dessert may have looked like a little pile of mud, but underneath all the creams there was actually plenty of texture. The strawberry-cherry cream was light, refreshing, and pleasantly sweet, while the mascarpone added a mild richness and nice contrast. What really brought the dish together was the crunchy element, which gave it much-needed texture and kept it from feeling one-dimensional. Overall, a delicious dessert.

Pairings: Tequila with red berry juice. Although the cocktail itself was delicious, it just wasn’t for me. It had a bit too much tequila for my liking, and I’m not much of a hard liquor drinker. The “cherry juice,” as our waiter described it, was really a blend of red fruits — strawberries, berries, cherries, basically anything red made into a smoothie. Again, a very good cocktail, just stronger than I prefer. Unbeknownst to me, I could have ordered it as a mocktail, which is very good to know for our next visit.

NOTE: We did have a thank you shot of mint liquor, as a parting gift, I took a taste, it was really good, very minty and refreshing.

SUMMARY

WHEW. After all that, we somehow survived a night of absolute gluttony. The restaurant isn’t the easiest place to find from the métro, though arriving by taxi or Uber is much simpler. It’s also quite small, and I’ve been told reservations are becoming difficult because of its growing popularity.

The food was excellent and the service equally so. My only real complaint is the noise level. The ceilings in the main upstairs dining room are low, and with the tables packed closely together, it becomes almost impossible to hear conversation at times.

Don’t expect a lot of frou-frou here: no white tablecloths, no stuffy formality. It’s a simple, compact bistrot that’s entirely about the food. 

That said, this is one of the few “touristy” restaurants I would absolutely return to. The pricing feels very fair, especially the seasonal tasting menu with the optional wine pairing, which I highly recommend. Note: you must order the "seasonal tasting menu" in advance. 

I knocked the rating by .5 because of the noise. 

Costs: With 4 "seasonal tasting" menu of 5-courses = €272, wine paring for 3 = €84. A glass of wine for €12, our total bill came to €368 or  €84 each 

However, without the wine it was  €272 for 4-people or €68 each.  As well as an a la carte choosing, they also do a entrée or desert + plat, or entrée plat desert formule.

Le Petit Bal Perdu -- Restaurant Review

 

For reservations, details, menu and location, check out website: https://www.lepetitbalperdu.com

Rating Standards: 5-Stars = Extraordinary; 4-Stars = Excellent; 3-Stars = Average; 2-Stars = Fair; 1-Star = Poor € = Inexpensive: 30€ and under; €€ = Moderate: 31€-49€; €€€ = Expensive: €50 -75; €€€€ = Very Expensive: more than €76 (prices based on minimum 2-courses) 

1-Bell = Pleasantly quiet (less than 65 decibels); 2-Bells = Can talk easily (65-70); 3-Bells = Talking normally gets difficult (70-80); 4-Bells = Can talk only in raised voices (75-90); BOMB = Too noisy for normal conversation (90+)

3.5 - stars ...................€€................................  BOMB

Sundays in France are usually reserved for visiting maman and settling in for a long, leisurely lunch that somehow stretches all the way to sunset. I’ve been to a few that casually rolled past midnight into the next day. But today was different. We decided to treat ourselves to a classic American-style Sunday lunch. And honestly? It was so much fun. Our reservation wasn’t until 2:30 p.m., yet the restaurant was absolutely packed, with people literally waiting outside for tables. And this wasn’t even one of those perfect Paris postcard days either — it was cold, wet, and rainy. Keep in mind we didn't finish until 5:30 (4-hour late lunch), due to a combination of slow service and we just didn't feel like rushing. 

Le Petit Bal, literally translated to "The Little Lost Dance", is actually part of a little family of restaurant sisters: Le Petit Marché, Le Petit Italien, and the most famous sister of them all, Chez Janou— legendary for its all-you-can-eat chocolate mousse, and by the way all located in the Le Marais, with the exception of this restaurant. 

As I mentioned earlier, we arrived at 2:30 p.m. and the place was already buzzing. The interior was lively, cozy, and very Parisian — not a single inch of space wasted, even though it’s actually considered fairly large by Paris standards.

They do have a terrace for al-fresco dining, but only the brave souls were sitting outside since it was cold and drizzly. The crowd skewed younger and was predominantly French, which is always a good sign. Then again, it’s close to the Sorbonne, so there are plenty of students around.

And wow… it was loud. Even by American standards. But somehow, that just added to the fun.

It’s a relatively small menu, which most of you already know I prefer. If a menu reads like a novel, I immediately want to leave.

The offerings here were simple, classic French bistro staples done well — nothing overly complicated or trying too hard. Just a solid selection with something for everyone. The prices were also very reasonable, especially by Paris standards.

What really stood out were the weekday lunch specials, which were incredibly affordable. Considering how close they are to the Sorbonne, I’m guessing they cater quite a bit to students, and honestly, it’s nice to see a place still keeping good food accessible, especially for students with their lunch specials. 

I'm only reviewing the dishes I had. 


ENTRÉE

Crispy prawns with basil.

This was basically a prawn wrapped in basil, then rolled in a thin egg-roll wrapper and deep fried. Honestly, how can you really go wrong with anything fried? N’est-ce pas?

The dipping sauce tasted like a bottled sweet-and-sour Thai sauce, nothing particularly house-made or fancy, but it worked. Overall, it was a solid dish and definitely enjoyable.

PLATS

Black Angus Ribeye with Pepper Sauce.

A very French — and honestly very American — kind of dish: meat and potatoes. I rarely eat beef in the U.S., but I do indulge more in France since the quality standards tend to be better and the meat isn’t pumped full of hormones and antibiotics.

I ordered it medium-rare and they nailed it. The steak was tender, and the pepper sauce was the perfect companion. The potatoes were good, though nothing particularly memorable. Overall, a solid, satisfying dish — just not anything revolutionary.

 

DESSERT 

Pistachio Crème Brûlée

We shared the desserts, and this was a first for us — pistachio crème brûlée. The table really enjoyed it. It was beautifully made, with a perfectly thin caramelized sugar crust and a subtle pale green color, probably from the pistachio.

That said, while I liked it, I found it a bit too sweet, and the pistachio flavor didn’t fully shine as the star. Still, definitely a good dessert.

Chocolate Mousse

Now this was my favorite. I first had the chocolate mousse at their sister restaurant, Chez Janou, and loved it there just as much as I did here. Fair warning though: it is intensely rich.

The fun part is that it’s all-you-can-eat. The server brings out a massive bowl, spoons out what he thinks you can handle, then comes back later to tempt you with more. I could only manage two heaping spoonfuls, but honestly, those two bites delivered a deep, velvety chocolate punch that was absolutely worth it.

Domaine Richaud’s 2024 Cairanne Cru des Côtes du Rhône 

Drinks like a classic Southern Rhône with a fresher, more lifted edge. Expect a nose full of ripe red berries, black cherry, wild herbs, cracked pepper, and a little garrigue — that earthy Provençal mix of thyme and lavender that Rhône lovers obsess over.

On the palate, it’s medium- to full-bodied with soft, polished tannins and a supple texture. You get layers of raspberry compote, plum, licorice, dark chocolate, and spice, balanced by enough freshness to keep it from feeling heavy.

The blend is typically Grenache-led with Mourvèdre, Syrah, and Carignan, coming from old vines planted in limestone, clay, and galet-strewn soils around Cairanne. Domaine Richaud is known for organic farming, low sulphur use, and a more natural, less manipulated style, so the wine tends to feel vibrant and alive rather than overly polished. (source:onwine)

SUMMARY 

It’s an extremely loud restaurant, so not exactly the place for deep intellectual conversations or a romantic dinner. But if you’re looking for simple, classic French comfort food in a lively atmosphere, this spot delivers.

On this particular Sunday, it was absolutely packed, so the service was pretty slow. That said, the staff were all very kind. For some people that might be frustrating, but honestly, when you live in Paris, you get used to it. Long meals are part of the culture — it gives everyone time to sit, talk, and catch up. Most Parisians don’t really entertain at home anyway, due to size restrictions, so cafés and restaurants become the living room.

It also seems especially popular with students, probably because it’s near the Sorbonne and the surrounding universities. It’s slightly off the beaten path from Rue Mouffetard, but still easy enough to find.

Now compared ompared to its famous sibling, Chez Janou, this spot feels just a touch more polished and enjoyable overall. Chez Janou has become something of a tourist institution in Paris, which comes with its own pros and cons — it’s lively, energetic, but also extremely loud, perpetually busy, and the service can swing from charming to completely overwhelmed depending on the day.

It’s not necessarily a quiet or intimate restaurant by any means, but compared to the frenzy of Chez Janou, it’s the kind of place where you can actually settle into the meal and enjoy the experience without feeling like you’re dining in the middle of a tourist stampede.

Would I go back? Sure. But it certainly wouldn't be a destination restaurant for me.

Costs

We had 2 bottles of Carianne = €82, coke = €5.50, 2 Crispy prawns = €24, 1 ravioli = €14, 1 Caesar salad = €13, 1 grilled prawns = €26, 2-steaks = €58, 1 chocolate mouse = €12, creme brulee = €9, 50cl of red wine = €18 our total came to €261.50 approximately €66 per person.

This seems quite expensive, so if you factor out the wines, which were pricey, the meal itself was not expensive, averaging only €40, which is very reasonable. 

Note: Going forward, if the wine ends up costing double — or more — than the food itself, I’ll factor that separately so you’ll have a better sense of the actual meal cost.