Bistrot des Fables -- Restaurant Review

For reservations, menu and location check their website: https://bistrotdesfables.fr/

Rating Standards: 5-Stars = Extraordinary; 4-Stars = Excellent; 3-Stars = Average; 2-Stars = Fair; 1-Star = Poor

€ = Inexpensive: 30€ and under; €€ = Moderate: 31€-49€; €€€ = Expensive: €50 -75; €€€€ = Very Expensive: more than €76 (prices based on minimum 2-courses)

1-Bell = Pleasantly quiet (less than 65 decibels); 2-Bells = Can talk easily (65-70); 3-Bells = Talking normally gets difficult (70-75); 4-Bells = Can talk only in raised voices (75-80); BOMB = Too noisy for normal conversation (80+)

2.50 - Star...............................................................€€........................................................... 1- Bell

NOTE: I'm only reviewing the dishes I had. 

I had exactly two days to find a restaurant to meet up with friends, and let me tell you: finding a restaurant in Paris that’s open on a Sunday or Monday—either for lunch or dinner—is practically an Olympic sport. Unless, of course, you want to eat in a very touristy neighborhood surrounded by people taking selfies with their croissants.

So I settled on this place, mainly because it was one of the few restaurants that wouldn’t break the bank for a nice al-fresco lunch. The catch? It’s in the 7ème, which is very touristy. The 7ème, along with the 6ème, is what many of us expats affectionately—or perhaps not so affectionately—call “Little America.” You’ll hear plenty of English, see plenty of tourists, and probably encounter someone who has just asked where the Eiffel Tower is while standing practically underneath it.

As we walked to the restaurant, I noticed the streets were crawling with tourists, and with Paris Fashion Week slowly winding down, there were skinny models everywhere. And honestly, all I could think was, Someone needs to feed these children! I wanted to grab them by the hand, sit them down, and order them a proper lunch. That’s just the mother in me.

The menu was very classically french, with that said, I started with escargot. 

ENTRÉE

ESCARGOT -- In my book, nobody eats escargot for the snail alone. Let’s be honest—it’s about the sauce. The snail is merely the vehicle for delivering all that glorious garlic butter and parsley to your mouth, and, more importantly, to your bread.

Sadly, there was very little sauce to be found here. What little remained in the shell was delicious—rich, buttery and garlicky—but there simply wasn’t enough of it. And without that pool of sauce begging to be mopped up with a piece of crusty bread, something essential was missing.

The escargot itself was perfectly fine, but it desperately needed to be bathed, not merely kissed, in that buttery garlicky, parsley sauce.

PLAT

Blanquet de Veau -- A very simple, old-fashioned dish—the kind of thing grand-mère might have made for Sunday lunch. And, in many ways, that’s its charm. In short, Blanquette de veau is a classic French comfort dish of tender veal gently simmered in a creamy white sauce, usually with mushrooms, carrots and onions. It’s delicate rather than heavily seasoned, and the creamy sauce is the star of the dish.

My issue was the sauce. There was plenty of it, but it had begun to destabilize by the time it reached the table, forming a skin that was anything but appetizing. I suspect a heavy hand with the flour or starch, which can affect a sauce’s stability. In fact, you could literally lift the film off in sheets with a fork. Not exactly the visual you want from a comforting, saucy dish.

And isn’t food also a visual experience? We eat with our eyes first, and this dish certainly didn’t win any beauty contests.

That said, the sauce itself was tasty, the veal was tender, and the rice had a slightly al dente bite—which some may find a little too firm. Overall, a generous portion: not much to look at, but good to eat.

DESSERTS

CAFÉ GOURMAND -- I have to say, the portions here are generous—perhaps a little too generous for a café gourmand. For those unfamiliar with the French tradition, a café gourmand is essentially an espresso served with a little assortment of miniature desserts: a few sweet bites rather than a full dessert tasting menu. Here, we got three rather substantial ones.

The first bite of the crème brûlée delivered a serious punch of sweetness, but I have to give credit where it’s due: the brûlée itself was well executed. The caramelized sugar was thin, crisp and beautifully crackly, breaking easily under the spoon. The caramel ice cream was also quite good.

The profiterole, however, was the sad child of the trio. In fact, it was practically inedible. The pâte à choux was stale—and not just a little stale; it tasted at least a day old. The whipped cream added little beyond volume, with almost no flavor. Both of us who ordered the café gourmand left the profiterole unfinished.

Perhaps a generous drizzle of chocolate sauce or glaze might have given it a fighting chance. Sadly, it never got one. Two out of three desserts isn’t bad—but when one of them needs to be rescued from the plate, we have a problem.

SUMMARY 

First, this is clearly a restaurant geared toward tourists, and perhaps especially Americans—the portions were enormous by French standards, and the menu sticks to the classics. The service felt a bit snooty, and they even started clearing plates before everyone at the table had finished, which is definitely not typical French dining etiquette.

The food was a bit all over the map. The escargot tasted good but needed more sauce, while the blanquette de veau had a flavorful sauce that unfortunately had started to form a skin. Since the sauce is really the heart of a blanquette, that was hard to overlook. Of the three items in the dessert, two were quite good; the profiterole, however, was a miss.

Would I go back? Probably not. It’s a perfectly serviceable spot if you’re looking for classic French dishes in a very touristy setting, but for me, there are plenty of better choices in Paris.

Costs: 3-entrées,3-plats and 3-desserts, price came to a total of €214 or roughly €54 per person (we were 4) 

Le Petit Célestin -- Restaurant Review

 

Website: https://www.lepetitcelestin.fr/
For more information, location and reservations 

Rating Standards: 5-Stars = Extraordinary; 4-Stars = Excellent; 3-Stars = Average; 2-Stars = Fair; 1-Star = Poor

€ = Inexpensive: 30€ and under; €€ = Moderate: 31€-49€; €€€ = Expensive: €50 -75; €€€€ = Very Expensive: more than €76 (prices based on minimum 2-courses)

1-Bell = Pleasantly quiet (less than 65 decibels); 2-Bells = Can talk easily (65-70); 3-Bells = Talking normally gets difficult (70-75); 4-Bells = Can talk only in raised voices (75-80); BOMB = Too noisy for normal conversation (80+)

3.50 - Star...............................................................€€€........................................................... 2 - Bell

After having drinks with friends from Palm Springs who are staying nearby at the SO/ Hotel, we decided to grab a bite to eat. I had been to this restaurant before, back in September 2014, click here to refer to old review (2014 review)

What surprised me this time was how many of the customers were walk-ins, like us. Most of the tables were set up along the large sidewalk terrace, which turned out to be perfect on such a beautiful evening. There’s really nothing better than sitting outside in Paris with a drink and dinner while the city does its thing around you.

My only complaint is that the tables along the street side are pretty tightly squeezed together, with the bike lane right next to them. A little more breathing room would make the experience a little more comfortable.

Other than that, it was lovely to be able to sit outside and enjoy such a beautiful Paris evening.

From what I understand, both management and ownership have changed hands several times over the years, so I was curious to see how the restaurant had evolved since my last visit.

NOTE: I will only review the dishes I had.




ENTRÉE

Fond d'artichaut, œuf poché bio, crème de pleurotes. (Artichoke heart, organic poached egg, oyster mushroom cream)

At first glance, I thought, Oh no, this is going to be old-school French cooking with lots of heavy cream—not exactly ideal for someone who’s lactose intolerant. But I was pleasantly surprised. The sauce did contain cream, but it was surprisingly light. My guess is they used xanthan gum to stabilize it, allowing them to use less cream without sacrificing the silky texture.

The artichoke was perfectly cooked, and the poached egg added another layer of richness and creaminess. Overall, a very good dish. Looks can definitely be deceiving.

PLAT

Canard sauvage (Wild duck)

This was the special of the night, so it wasn’t on the regular menu. Happily, the sauce wasn’t cream-based but a beautifully rich jus.

The wild duck was flavorful, but unfortunately quite tough. Wild duck is notoriously lean and unforgiving when overcooked—except, perhaps, when it’s transformed into confit de canard. The doneness was also inconsistent: some pieces were tender, while others from the same cut were surprisingly tough.

The jus was excellent, and the duck came with fries but not a vegetable in sight—almost harkening back to the days when vegetables were merely a garnish and diners wanted their money’s worth in protein.

It was tasty, but not my favorite dish. Because with duck, as with life, it’s not just about the flavor—the texture and balance matters too.

DESSERTS

Lemon Meringue Pie 

When the lemon meringue pie arrived, about 80% of it seemed to be meringue. But one thing the French do exceptionally well is meringue—they make it smooth and stable, without those nasty little wet beads of sugar.

And this lemon filling was pucker-level tart. JJ and our friend absolutely loved it precisely because of that. I figured all that meringue was there to balance the tartness. I’ll defer to the two dessert lovers, since I’m not much of a dessert person. Their verdict: they loved it.

SUMMARY

Having visited this location before, I’d been curious to return, especially knowing that both the management and chefs have changed. The setting is hard to beat—right along the Seine, across from Île Saint-Louis. I was surprised by how many English speakers were dining there, and equally surprised that they had plenty of tables available for walk-ins. The staff were also charmingly delightful, which always makes a difference, that's why I bumped up the review by .5. 

And then, the food.

The artichoke was very good. The mushroom sauce looked rich, but was actually quite light, while the poached egg added a lovely silkiness and another layer of flavor and texture. And really, who doesn’t love a perfectly poached egg?

The wild duck was my least favorite. It was flavorful, but unevenly cooked, with some pieces tender and others frustratingly tough. It also cried out for a vegetable to cut through the richness. And fries with wild duck? Let’s just say I’m still processing that French logic.

Overall, there were some very enjoyable dishes, and the setting and service made for a pleasant evening.

The damage: €164 for three people—about €55 per person—for two entrées, three plats, one dessert, three glasses of wine, and a bottle of sparkling water.

Would we come back?

Yes, but I wouldn’t make it a destination restaurant. It’s a good neighborhood choice, particularly if we’re in the area, haven’t made a reservation, and need somewhere reliable to eat. In that situation, I’d happily go back.

Le Collectionneur -- Restaurant Review

 

For address, menu & reservations see website: https://www.hotelducollectionneur.com/en/fb#restaurant

Rating Standards: 5-Stars = Extraordinary; 4-Stars = Excellent; 3-Stars = Average; 2-Stars = Fair; 1-Star = Poor € = Inexpensive: 30€ and under; €€ = Moderate: 31€-49€; €€€ = Expensive: €50 -75; €€€€ = Very Expensive: more than €76 (prices based on minimum 2-courses) 

1-Bell = Pleasantly quiet (less than 65 decibels); 2-Bells = Can talk easily (65-70); 3-Bells = Talking normally gets difficult (70-80); 4-Bells = Can talk only in raised voices (75-90); BOMB = Too noisy for normal conversation (90+)

4.25- stars ................................€€.....................................   🔔 (Exterior)  

We were meeting up with our dear friend Sarah for lunch, and I had made the arrangements two weeks ago, right in the middle of the heatwave. Thinking we’d still be escaping the heat, I figured, why not meet at a hotel restaurant? High-end hotels are usually wonderfully air-conditioned, after all. So I chose the Hôtel du Collectionneur, which came highly recommended.

 

The hotel is absolutely beautiful—and, after all, it is a five-star hotel. We were pleasantly surprised that by the day we met our friend, the weather had turned perfect: sunny and a gorgeous 72°F (22°C). We were seated on the terrace overlooking the beautiful garden, and it felt as though we had been transported away from the city. Tucked into the hotel’s courtyard, we were completely removed from the hustle and bustle of the busy Paris streets.

Just an FYI, the hotel is located in a very posh part of Paris, not far from the boutiques of some of the world’s most prestigious designers, including Dior, Loewe, Gucci and Bottega Veneta.

NOTE: I’ll only be reviewing the dishes I personally had.

The restaurant offers a €56 lunch special that includes an entrée, plat and dessert, which we thought was an excellent deal for a five-star hotel. Naturally, we all went for it. There were quite a few tempting choices on the pre-fixe menu, so we had some decisions to make.

AMUSE BOUCHE 

Gougeres of Comte cheese. -- What a wonderful way to begin. The gougère was beautifully tender, with the cheese offering a lovely contrast—melted and creamy on the inside, yet with just enough crispness to add texture. It practically dissolved in your mouth, setting the stage for what was to come.

ENTRÈE

Artichoke with a quinoa, green apple, feta cheese with artichoke hearts, and served with a lemon vinaigrette dipping sauce.  -- I really enjoyed this dish. It was fresh, vibrant, and, admittedly, had one major advantage going for it: I love artichokes. The large, generously portioned artichoke hearts were the star, while the feta added just the right touch of saltiness and richness. I was particularly pleased with the dipping sauce—it wasn’t thick or heavy, but rather a bright, simple citrus vinaigrette that allowed the artichokes to remain the focus.

Overall, it was a beautifully composed dish: clean, fresh and satisfying without feeling overly indulgent. My only criticism was that some of the artichoke leaves could have used a little more cooking; they were slightly too firm for my liking.

PLATS

Steak topped with shaved parmesan cheese with roasted potatoes and accompanied by an arugula salad (Rocket) with a light citrus vinaigrette and also topped with shaved Parmesan cheese. -- A very typical French dish—basically steak and frites, but with a more elevated touch. I asked for the steak à point, which usually means medium-rare, although mine came out closer to rare. No complaints, though—it was tender, flavorful and delicious.

They probably could have skipped the shaved Parmesan on top, but lucky for me, I love Parmesan, especially when it’s been aged properly. In place of frites were roasted potatoes, they were moist, tender and full of flavor, and the salad added some much-needed freshness and lightness to what can otherwise be a fairly heavy meal.

And don't let the size of the plate fool you. It was actually a very generous portion, in fact,  I couldn’t finish it.

DESSERT

Chocolate and coffee sorbet. -- Since we had just returned from Italy, I naturally had to have something gelato-like. They did have gelato on the menu, but I opted for the sorbet, erroneously convincing myself that it would be a lighter choice. It wasn’t necessarily, but it was still a delicious and refreshing dessert on a warm summer day.

SUMMARY

I normally don’t like eating at hotel restaurants because once you’re inside, you could be just about anywhere in the world. But in Paris in August, the pickings for good, affordable restaurants are pretty slim—and finding one that’s air-conditioned is even harder.

You can usually count on the “fancier” hotels to have air conditioning, but they also tend to be either very expensive, not very good, or sometimes both. So finding one that’s both good and reasonably priced feels like hitting the jackpot, especially in August.

Although we didn’t actually need the air conditioning when we went, we’d definitely go back any time of year. The atmosphere was elegant without being stuffy, the service was attentive, and the food was genuinely good. And, even better, because I booked through La Fourchette, we received a 30% discount. Now that makes a five-star hotel restaurant even more appealing.

Costs: for 3-pre-fixe lunches at €56 each totalled €168 minus our 30% discount = €117.60, plus 2-cokes, 1 badoit = €146.60, about €49 each. Note: we had no wine nor cocktails. 

Brasserie Lazare Paris -- Restaurant Review

 

For logstics, reservations, directions: https://lazare-paris.fr/menu/

Rating Standards: 5-Stars = Extraordinary; 4-Stars = Excellent; 3-Stars = Average; 2-Stars = Fair; 1-Star = Poor € = Inexpensive: 30€ and under; €€ = Moderate: 31€-49€; €€€ = Expensive: €50 -75; €€€€ = Very Expensive: more than €76 (prices based on minimum 2-courses) 

1-Bell = Pleasantly quiet (less than 65 decibels); 2-Bells = Can talk easily (65-70); 3-Bells = Talking normally gets difficult (70-80); 4-Bells = Can talk only in raised voices (75-90); BOMB = Too noisy for normal conversation (90+)

3.75- stars .................€€€.................  Interior BOMB (Interior), 🔔 🔔 (Exterior)  

(Note: value based without wine, see details in summary)

Finding a restaurant that worked for all three of us wasn't easy—we were literally coming from opposite sides of Paris (east, south, and west). To make things even more challenging, we were meeting on a Monday night, when many of Paris's restaurants are typically closed. I finally settled on this one, conveniently located right inside Gare Saint-Lazare. That turned out to be a great choice because service was leisurely, and we didn't leave until after 11 p.m. Thankfully, all of our Métro lines were just steps away, making the trip home easy for everyone.

As soon as I walked in, I recognized the place. A French friend had brought me here for lunch years ago. I'd never reviewed it, but I remembered it being quiet, comfortable, and serving good food, but we went during off season. 

BTW, this is a large restaurant, it can accomodate: 

Main dining room: 140–180 guests

Terrace: 40–60 guests 

As soon as we walked in, the first thing I noticed was that the restaurant was packed—and incredibly loud. I suspect the recent heatwave played a big part, with locals and tourists alike flocking to one of the few air-conditioned restaurants in Paris. The noise was so intense that my iPhone warned me the sound level could be harmful. I checked my decibel meter: 85+ dB, which falls into the "extremely loud" range where prolonged exposure can contribute to hearing damage.

Once everyone arrived, we decided to brave the warm evening and move outside. Unsurprisingly, they had a table. Ironically, most diners seemed to prefer the obnoxiously noisy, air-conditioned dining room over the much quieter terrace—and we were more than happy to take advantage of that.

They have a prix-fixe menu at €49 for 3-courses.

Now onto the food. I'm reviewing only the dishes I had. For convenience I will translate the dish into English.

ENTREE

Chicken and Foie Gras Pâté en Croûte, beetroot pickles

The presentation was simple and understated. The pâté en croûte was well seasoned and flavorful, but both the filling and the pastry were denser than ideal. A great pâté en croûte should strike a balance between a moist, tender filling and a light, flaky crust.

The pickled beetroot added a welcome touch of acidity, cutting through the richness and bringing balance to the dish. While the texture kept it from being exceptional, it was still an enjoyable starter overall.

PLAT 

Roasted chicken supreme with thyme, lemon gnocchi and olive jus

This looked like a hearty dish from the moment it arrived. If you're a fan of lemon, you'll love it—the flavors were definitely lemon-forward. The gnocchi were a standout: light, tender, and perfectly cooked, never gummy. The olives added a welcome savory contrast, while the roasted cherry tomatoes brought sweetness without overpowering the dish.

Overall, I really enjoyed it. If I had one criticism, the chicken was just a touch dry. That said, considering the sheer volume this kitchen produces—the restaurant can easily seat over 200 diners at a time—it's understandable. I'd happily order this dish again, and hope I get a more moist chicken, cause the flavors were all there. 

DESSERTS

Trou Normand (green apple sorbet and Calvados)

On a warm summer evening, it's hard to beat a sorbet, so that was an easy choice. It may look like a simple dessert, but the real star was the Calvados. If you're unfamiliar with it, think of Calvados as the apple equivalent of cognac—a distilled apple brandy with notes of baked apples, vanilla, and spice.

The kitchen certainly didn't skimp on the Calvados. A pleasant surprise was the chunks of apple folded into the sorbet, adding both texture and flavor. Better yet, any Calvados left in the glass could be enjoyed as a little after-dinner cocktail.

A refreshing and memorable finish to an excellent meal.

WINES

By Ott 2024 Côtes de Provence

This pale Provence rosé was the perfect companion on a warm Paris evening. Bright and refreshing, it offered delicate notes of white peach, apricot, and citrus with a crisp mineral finish. Elegant, balanced, and easy to drink, it's exactly what you hope for from a quality Côtes de Provence rosé.

SUMMARY

I've always believed that a restaurant experience begins the moment you make a reservation and doesn't end until you walk out the door. My previous visit was for lunch during the off-season, so this was a very different experience. I suspect the extraordinary crowds were largely due to the European heatwave. Finding an air-conditioned restaurant in Paris—especially one that's open on a Monday—is no easy feat.

Despite the crowds, the staff remained gracious and professional, especially the maître d'. It was clear they were stretched thin. We eventually escaped the deafening dining room for the terrace, where they happily accommodated us. Our table was a bit awkwardly tucked into a corner, making it difficult to get in and out, but that was a small price to pay for a quieter setting.

The food was consistently good, particularly considering the restaurant's impressive volume. My only real criticism was the pacing. There was an unusually long wait between the starters and main courses, even by Parisian standards and while I don't fault the staff, the timing noticeably affected the overall experience.

So how do you rate a restaurant where the food is good, the staff is warm and welcoming, but the service is uneven and the indoor dining room is nearly unbearable? For me, it comes down to balance. The strengths outweighed the weaknesses, but the shortcomings were significant enough to keep this from being a truly outstanding meal. 

With three prix-fixe menus at €49each, 1-bottle water €5.50, 1-bottle wine €39, 1-calamari starter €16 (JJ loved it), 1-fish and chips €20 (JJ said it was terrible). Total bill rounded to €59 each.

Air Conditioning in Paris -- "Canicule" June 2026

Why Air Conditioning 

Never Really Caught On in Paris

Visitors are often surprised to discover that many apartments, cafés, and even some hotels and hospitals in Paris still don't have air conditioning. While this may seem unusual to those from countries where AC is considered essential, the reasons are rooted in history, culture, architecture, economics, and environmental policy.

A Deeply Rooted Cultural Belief

One of the biggest factors is a long-held cultural belief that cold drafts ("les courants d'air") can make you sick. Although modern medicine doesn't support the idea that a cool breeze itself causes illness, many French people were raised to believe that sudden changes in temperature can lead to colds, sore throats, stiff necks, or muscle pain. As a result, you'll often find windows quickly closed if there's a draft, even on warm days.

(Yes. I've actually seen people "scarf up" when a strong fan was present)

A City Built Before Air Conditioning

Paris's architecture also plays a major role. Much of the city consists of beautiful Haussmann-era buildings constructed during the 19th century—decades before air conditioning existed. These historic buildings were designed to stay comfortable naturally, with thick limestone walls, high ceilings, tall windows, exterior shutters, and cross ventilation. Until recently, these features were usually enough to keep homes reasonably cool during the summer.

Paris: A Living Museum

There's another factor that's easy to overlook: many Parisians view their city as a living museum. Paris is celebrated worldwide for its elegant limestone façades, wrought-iron balconies, and remarkably uniform streetscapes. The idea of attaching thousands of metal air-conditioning units to these historic buildings strikes many residents as visually intrusive. After all, if you wouldn't bolt modern equipment onto the exterior of a museum, why would you want to alter one of the world's most iconic cityscapes? Preserving the beauty and architectural integrity of Paris has long been considered just as important as modern convenience.

Historic Preservation Comes First

Installing modern air conditioning isn't always straightforward. Many apartment buildings are protected for their historic appearance, and adding outdoor compressor units often requires approval from the building's co-owners or local authorities. Even when installation is permitted, residents may object because of concerns about aesthetics, noise, or preserving the character of the building.

(Notice no a/c compressors)

The Cost vs. The Need

Economics has also influenced the French attitude toward air conditioning. For much of the last century, Paris experienced only a few very hot days each summer. Spending several thousand euros on a system that might only be used for a couple of weeks each year simply didn't seem worthwhile.

An Environmental Mindset

Environmental concerns have also shaped public policy. Air conditioners consume significant amounts of electricity and release heat outdoors, contributing to the "urban heat island" effect that makes cities even warmer. Instead of encouraging widespread residential air conditioning, France has traditionally promoted passive cooling measures such as better insulation, shutters, trees, ventilation, and energy-efficient building design.

Climate Change Is Changing Minds

However, climate change is beginning to reshape these long-standing attitudes. Heatwaves are becoming more frequent, lasting longer, and reaching temperatures that were once considered exceptional. During recent summers, Paris has experienced temperatures above 40°C (104°F), making traditional cooling methods far less effective.

As a result, more Parisians are purchasing portable air conditioners and split systems, and businesses increasingly advertise "climatisation" as a selling point. Demand for cooling equipment has surged during heatwaves, with many retailers temporarily selling out of air conditioners.

A Uniquely Parisian Solution

Rather than relying solely on individual air conditioning units, Paris is expanding an innovative district cooling network that circulates chilled water through underground pipes to cool offices, museums, hospitals, and public buildings. It's an energy-efficient approach that reflects the city's commitment to reducing emissions while adapting to a warming climate.

A City Slowly Adapting

Paris hasn't rejected air conditioning out of stubbornness alone. Its cautious approach reflects centuries of architectural design, cultural traditions, environmental priorities, and a climate that, until recently, rarely demanded mechanical cooling. But as summers continue to grow hotter, it's clear that attitudes are changing. Air conditioning is no longer viewed as an unnecessary luxury by many Parisians—it's increasingly becoming a practical response to a changing climate.

(the fear) 

My sentiments

After living in Paris since 2008, I've come to appreciate both sides of the debate. I still enjoy the comfort of air conditioning during a canicule, but I also understand why Parisians have been reluctant to cover one of the world's most beautiful cities with thousands of metal compressor units. As the climate changes, Paris is changing too—carefully, thoughtfully, and, as always, in its own uniquely French way.

Bistrotters-- Restaurant Review

For information, reservations = https://www.bistrotters.com/

Rating Standards: 5-Stars = Extraordinary; 4-Stars = Excellent; 3-Stars = Average; 2-Stars = Fair; 1-Star = Poor € = Inexpensive: 30€ and under; €€ = Moderate: 31€-49€; €€€ = Expensive: €50 -75; €€€€ = Very Expensive: more than €76 (prices based on minimum 2-courses) 

1-Bell = Pleasantly quiet (less than 65 decibels); 2-Bells = Can talk easily (65-70); 3-Bells = Talking normally gets difficult (70-80); 4-Bells = Can talk only in raised voices (75-90); BOMB = Too noisy for normal conversation (90+)

4.50 - stars ...................€€.................................  80 DECIBELS, 4-🔔

(Note: value based without wine, see details in summary)

Believe it or not, finding an air-conditioned restaurant in Paris that's open on a Monday isn't as easy as it sounds—unless you're dining at a hotel restaurant or splurging on a Michelin-starred address.

So, during this canicule (HEATWAVE) I made it my mission to find a restaurant that checked two essential boxes: #1 Air-conditioned and #2 Open on a Monday.

If you don't already know, many Paris restaurants—and even a surprising number of cafés—close on Sundays and especially Mondays. That can make dining options pretty slim.

We lucked out and discovered Bistrotters, just a 30-minute walk from our apartment. Not only does it have air conditioning, but it's also open seven days a week. As I approached the entrance, I noticed the windows were covered with accolades and awards. I thought, well, this looks promising.

I already knew they turned tables, so the only reservation I could snag at the last minute was 7:00 p.m. Normally, I'd say that's far too early for dinner—especially during a canicule when it's still blazing hot outside—but when air conditioning is involved, compromises must be made.

In fact, we arrived a few minutes early and had to wait outside because they literally don't unlock the doors until 7:00 p.m. sharp.

The interior was cozy—very cozy. In fact, I'd say it crossed the line from cozy to Parisian intimacy. Since we were the first guests to arrive, we had the chance to take in the space before the evening rush began.

The restaurant is divided into two dining rooms. The rear room feels a bit like a long, wide hallway, lined with orange banquettes and situated directly in front of the kitchen. The front room serves as the main dining area, with large windows that open onto the street, filling the space with natural light and giving it a classic neighborhood bistro feel.

As the restaurant filled up, "cozy" took on a whole new meaning. The tables are packed tightly together, and by the end of the evening we were definitely more than neighbors to the diners at the next table—we were practically sharing the same ZIP code.

If the weather cooperates, you can also dine al fresco. However, during a canicule, outdoor seating wasn't even a consideration for us—we were there for one reason: air conditioning.

For those visiting in cooler weather, I'd choose the front dining room for its bright, open atmosphere and street views. But during a heat wave, the back room is the clear winner, as it's where the air-conditioning vent is located and where you'll find the coolest seats in the house.

Note: I'm only reviewing the dishes I had.

ENTRÉE

Encornets en persillade, créme de fenouil, courgettes et poivrons sautés. (Squid in parsley and garlic, fennel cream, sautéed zucchini with bell peppers)

Maybe it was the heat, but I honestly expected this dish to be served cold. Instead, it arrived warm. Truth be told, I probably would have preferred it chilled, but that didn't stop it from being absolutely delicious.

The light and airy fennel cream tied all the elements together beautifully, but the real star of the show was the squid. It was cooked to perfection—so tender it practically melted in your mouth. Anyone who has ever cooked squid knows that's no easy feat.

There was also a surprise tuile, and I could immediately tell it was made with squid ink, thanks to its distinctive briny flavor, nice touch. It added both texture and an extra layer of complexity to the dish.

The entire entrée was beautifully composed, with every element working in harmony. In fact, it was my favorite dish of the evening.

NOTE: I have to admit, one of my dining pet peeves is when restaurants don't replace the utensils between courses—especially after a dish with a creamy sauce. The last thing I want is  fennel cream making an unexpected appearance in my next course.

I've also noticed that some restaurants seem more diligent about changing utensils for French diners than for tourists. Whether that's intentional or simply oversight, I can't say. In any case, when our next course arrived, I politely asked for fresh utensils. It's a small detail, but one that I think makes a difference in the overall dining experience.

PLATS PRINCIPAL

Called des Vosges farcie à l’estragon, jus au cidre, gnocchi de panais, épinard. (Voges Quail stuffed with tarragon, cider jus, parsnip gnocchis, spinach) 

I love quail, although when it's served whole it can sometimes be a bit challenging to eat. Here, the bird was presented thoughtfully, with the body stuffed with tarragon while the legs remained intact, making for a rustic yet elegant presentation.

The accompanying jus was excellent—light, flavorful, and beautifully balanced. It tasted like a true reduction rather than a sauce thickened with flour or roux. Interestingly, it had a subtle sweetness that caught my attention. I found myself wondering whether the chef had added just a touch of honey or sugar to round out the flavors. Whatever the secret, it worked. The quail itself was moist, tender, and full of flavor.

The gnocchi were equally impressive. Perfectly cooked, they were light and delicate rather than dense or gummy. My guess is that the addition of parsnips helped, as they're less starchy than potatoes and lend a subtle sweetness of their own.

If I had one minor criticism, it would be the spinach. For my taste, it leaned a little too sweet, especially alongside a dish that already featured several naturally sweet elements. Still, that's a small quibble in what was otherwise a very satisfying plate.

DESSERT

Chou praliné aux noix de pécan, ganache au chocolat et glace vanille. (Pecan praline choux pastry, chocolate ganache, and vanilla ice cream)

I don't normally order dessert, but the ice cream on this one practically called my name.

The chou pastry was just a touch tougher than I would have liked, but in the end it's really just a vehicle for the chocolate ganache. Fortunately, the kitchen got the ganache exactly right. Rather than being overly dense and rich, it was silky, creamy, and surprisingly light.

As for the ice cream, it was the perfect ending to a sweltering evening. Refreshing, cool, and full of flavor, it provided a welcome respite from the canicule outside. I could easily have eaten more, although for someone who is lactose intolerant, a few spoonfuls were probably just the right amount.

Overall, it was a very enjoyable dessert—thoughtfully balanced, not overly sweet, and a satisfying finish to an excellent meal.

WINES

Al Muvedra-Tinto Monastrell 2024

To accompany our meal, we selected the 2024 A-Muñoz Monastrell from Alicante, Spain, produced by Telmo Rodríguez. Monastrell (known as Mourvèdre in France) thrives in the hot Mediterranean climate, and this youthful wine showcased all the freshness and vibrancy the grape can offer. In the glass, it delivered aromas of black cherry, ripe plum, and blackberry, accented by subtle notes of wild Mediterranean herbs and a touch of spice.

What I appreciated most was its balance. While fruit-forward and approachable, it wasn't jammy or heavy. Soft tannins and bright acidity kept the wine lively and refreshing, making it an excellent companion to the meal rather than competing with it. It paired particularly well with the quail, complementing the tarragon stuffing and savory jus while adding just enough fruit and spice to round out each bite. An honest, well-made Spanish red that punches well above its price point.

NOTE: This wine is normally served lightly chilled, which it was, and perfect for a warm summer's night. 

SUMMARY

Unless you're in the know, you're probably not going to stumble across this restaurant. Had I not been specifically researching air-conditioned restaurants during the canicule, we likely would never have discovered it.

Located in a part of the 14th arrondissement that few tourists venture into, Bistrotters feels very much like a neighborhood gem. In fact, aside from us and a large group of international workers led by a French colleague, the clientele appeared to be almost entirely local. After experiencing the food, it's easy to understand why the restaurant has earned so many accolades over the years.

As the evening progressed, the noise level definitely rose—largely thanks to the international group seated nearby. One particularly enthusiastic German woman could probably have been heard halfway across the arrondissement. For once, I didn't feel like the loud American in the room.

Would we return? Absolutely. With food this good, reliable air conditioning, and the restaurant only a 30-minute walk from our apartment, I have a feeling we'll be back sooner rather than later.

For 3-people, we had 2-three course prix-fixe meals @€47 each, 1- two course meals @€39, a soda @€8, and a bottle of wine at €37, our total came to €178 or €59/person. Without the wine, it would've been €141 or €47/person. 

NOTE: they do turn tables have 2 seatings: 7 pm and 9 pm. 

Erso -- Restaurant Review

 

For information, address, reservations, refer to website: www.erso-restaurant.fr 

Rating Standards: 5-Stars = Extraordinary; 4-Stars = Excellent; 3-Stars = Average; 2-Stars = Fair; 1-Star = Poor € = Inexpensive: 30€ and under; €€ = Moderate: 31€-49€; €€€ = Expensive: €50 -75; €€€€ = Very Expensive: more than €76 (prices based on minimum 2-courses) 

1-Bell = Pleasantly quiet (less than 65 decibels); 2-Bells = Can talk easily (65-70); 3-Bells = Talking normally gets difficult (70-80); 4-Bells = Can talk only in raised voices (75-90); BOMB = Too noisy for normal conversation (90+)

4.50 - stars ...................€€€.................................  3-🔔

We live in Paris, so we don't usually research restaurants before going out. If a place looks interesting, we simply give it a try. We have friends in Nice who, whenever they come to Paris, like to do a little research before choosing where to eat. Every restaurant they've recommended has been a winner, and this one is no exception. Consider it another well-deserved addition to their growing list of hits.

As many of you know, I love restaurants with an open kitchen. To me, it says a lot about a place—you can see how cleanly they work, how organized they are, and how the team interacts under pressure. I’ve always believed that a happy kitchen is a good sign that good food is on the way.

We sat right at the kitchen counter, giving us a front-row seat to the action. I was fascinated watching 4 or 5 people working together in such a small, narrow space. They moved with incredible precision, like a perfectly choreographed dance—each person knowing exactly where to be and what to do without missing a beat.  

The restaurant is small and cozy—very typical of Paris, where every square meter is put to good use. They also offer counter seating for two, which is a nice option if you enjoy being close to the action.

One practical tip: if you're someone who makes frequent trips to the restroom, I'd recommend requesting a table in the main dining room or an aisle seat. The tables are arranged quite close together, as is often the case in Paris. That said, it never felt cramped or uncomfortable—just intimate and full of charm.


NOTE:  I'm only going to review the dishes I had. 

There were no prix-fixe menus, you order a-la-carte.

Smoked tuna with hay Tarama sardines -- Nikka Whiskey, black pear pickles, nori seaweed, wild asparagus from the grill, white garlic. 

When the entrée arrived, my first impression was that it was a simple yet beautifully composed dish. As our server explained the preparation, however, I realized there was nothing simple about it. The intricate combination of ingredients and the painstaking process behind each element highlighted the French commitment to achieving a very specific flavor profile. They truly embrace the idea that great cuisine is built through layers of technique and attention to detail.

The tuna was exceptionally fresh, while the sardines were surprisingly mild and delicate. What impressed me most was that, despite the many flavors and components surrounding the dish, the tuna remained the undisputed star. It felt as though the accompanying garlic, nori, and other elements existed solely to showcase and elevate the fish rather than compete with it. The result was a beautifully balanced plate and, without question, my favorite dish of the evening.

Lamb in two courses. Rack of lamb -- candied shoulder in shizo leaf, artichoke mousseline -- tahini artichokes pepper lacquers unagi, kumquat condiment, melilot gel, lamb juice.

This was not a dish for everyone. The lamb was served quite rare, and while I don't normally eat rare meat, I have to admit it was delicious.

Visually, it wasn't the most appealing presentation. My main criticism is that the rack of lamb had not been fully trimmed, leaving a thick layer of fat that is typically removed. That said, the jus was excellent—rich, flavorful, and beautifully executed.

The artichoke hearts were not cooked as much as I would have preferred and had a slightly thorny texture. In contrast, the creamed artichokes were absolutely delicious, providing a smooth and satisfying counterpoint.

On the other hand, the confit—described on the menu as candied—was outstanding. The shiso leaf was a thoughtful addition, bringing a touch of freshness that the dish needed and helping to balance the richness of the other components.

Overall, the flavors were very good, and there was a lot to admire. With a few refinements, however, this dish could easily be elevated to the next level.

Orange blossom semolina cake. creamy dulce, cherries, cigarette tile - fennel seeds, thyme-lemon ice cream

JJ ordered this dessert. I'm not a big fan of semolina, as I tend to find it a bit too grainy for my taste. That said, I thought it was a well-composed dessert with a nice balance of flavors and textures.

Jack, on the other hand, thought it was very good, so I'll defer to his judgment since I don't eat many desserts. What I did particularly enjoy were the creamy dulce de leche, the cherries, and the cigarette tuile. The thyme-lemon ice cream was excellent, and the fennel seeds added an unexpected but pleasant aromatic touch.

Overall, if I'm being honest, while the semolina wasn't my favorite component, the accompanying elements came together nicely and made for an enjoyable dessert.

Chateau Roubine -- Cru Classé

This was perfect for a warm summer night. The Château Roubine Cru Classé Rosé is a classic Provence rosé—elegant, refreshing, and beautifully balanced. Pale salmon in color, it offered delicate aromas of white peach, citrus, and wild berries, along with subtle floral and herbal notes. On the palate, crisp acidity and a touch of minerality complemented flavors of stone fruit and grapefruit, leading to a clean, lingering finish. Light yet complex, it was an easy-drinking wine that paired exceptionally well with the meal, refreshing the palate without overshadowing the food.

SUMMARY

This was a great restaurant find. While the space is compact and tables are set close together, the ambiance is warm and inviting. The service was excellent, and our waitperson, who had lived in Australia for several years, spoke with an Aussie accent that I found quite charming.

There is no prix-fixe dinner menu, but the à la carte prices are very reasonable. The menu itself is small—which, as many of you know, I consider a positive. A focused menu allows the kitchen to concentrate on fewer dishes and execute them at a higher level.

Overall, the food was delicious, though I do think the lamb dish could use some refinement. Leaving the thick layer of fat on the rack of lamb didn't work for me, and the dish would have benefited from a fresher element to balance its richness. Artichokes, while flavorful, naturally lend a somewhat gray appearance to a plate, so a brighter component could have enhanced both the presentation and the overall balance. These are relatively minor adjustments, however, and with a little tweaking, this dish could be exceptional.  Would we return, absolutely.


Costs -- 1-sparkling water, 1-glass of red, 1-bottle of rosé, 7-entreés, 5-plats, 3-desseerts, Our total bill came to €362.50 or €60.42 per person (there were 6 of us). Minus the wine, It would've been €53.91.