About

"The evolving Francophile..."

My husband Jack has always wanted to live in Paris and learn French. I thought it would be good for him to achieve his life time dream. Hence, we moved to Paris in 2008. My first year was difficult. I started "missives" to relieve some stress and chronicle my life so friends back in the US could read what I am experiencing. I currently write about my food in Paris, which is my passion., travel experiences, and "experiences living in Paris."

It is definitely a challenge to live here, but each year it gets easier, and quite enjoyable, in large part because I value friendships over locale. I have a love/hate relationship with Paris as do most Parisians, mais La vie est belle (but life is good)!

Sunday, June 25, 2023

Ethnic foods of paris

 


If you're anything like me, you like to explore ethnic neighborhoods and try their food. I also oftentimes get bored and I need something spicy and exciting. And, we all know the French are not keen on spicy foods.

Here's a tip, if you like spicy food, e.g. Indian, tell the wait staff you're not French, or they figured that out already, and tell them you want the food like they would eat it, otherwise it will be "frenchyfied" and very toned down, in french "fade." 

Be forewarned that some of these neighborhoods are gritty (mostly the 10eme, between Metro Barbes Rouchechart and Metro Le Chapelle and Belleville), but safe. You just have to remember a few simple rules, don't take photos of people selling e.g., "Knock offs" or they will confront you. There will be some who will approach you selling cigarettes or whatever, just ignore them, or say "non-merci".  And, as always, be aware of pickpockets. 




Here's my list, not in any particular order



3eme arrondissement "Rue de Maire" (Metro arts et Metier) Line 3

This is the original Chinatown. It's only a few blocks long, but it's in the Le Marais wholesale district and more centrally located. So, if you're craving Chinese food, it's an easy to get to location.  


As an aside, the building pictured above is reputed to be the oldest in Paris. It's on Re de Maire and Rue Volta.




10eme arrondissement "Little India" (Metro la Chapelle or Barbes-Rochechouart) Line 2 

A little more gritty, but fun and have great south asian food. There will be sprinklings of small neighborhood french restaurants that are popping up and really good. Rents are cheaper so prices tend to be less pricey. It is an up and coming neighborhood. A trick, search restaurants wherein you see more south asian people, food tends to be more authentic. Also, lots of vegetarian options. And, some are so authentic that you'll see a sink in the restaurant dining area so you can wash your hands before and after you eat, because you'll be eating with your hands. 




1-2 arrondissement. "Little Tokyo" (Metro L’Opéra line 8) Start at 
Rue Saint-Anne 

I personally call it "NOODLE ALLEY". Noodle soups (Phô) will abound. Although mostly Japanese ramen restaurants, you'll also see Vietnamese and Korean food. As an aside, there is a grocery store there called "K-MART" which is a Korean grocery store. This is very centrally located, so if you're craving noodle soups, go! 



15eme arrondissement "Little Persia" (Metro Commerce line 8) 

This is my neighborhood and it has really changed over the 15-years we've lived here. A lot more restaurants, specialty grocery stores. I don't want to use the word gentrified since it was always that, but it used to be a very sleepy "LOCAL" residential neighborhood, but now has lots of interesting stores and restaurants popping up. It's unknown to many tourist and we like it like that, but I'm willing to share. Corner of Rue du Commerce and Rue des Entrepreneurs going northwest, will start a high concentration of Persian restaurants and Persian grocery stores. 




13eme arrondissement "Chinatown" (Metro Place de Italie, line 5, 6, 7) 

Reputedly, the largest Chinatown in the world. Tang Frere (asian store) also claims to be the largest outside of China. Check out my review of the 13eme on this link Chinatown 13eme. One of my favorite places to go and eat. Ironically, I like to go there for Laotian cuisine. It's not centrally located, but worth the ride. This Chinatown was borne of the exodus of Southeast asians fleeing during the Vietnam war. Most of the exiles are of Chinese ancestry, so you'll find the food a melange of southeast and Chinese from various regions. They have great butcher shops and if you know Picard, famous for prepared frozen foods, they also have an asian version called, "Paris Gel," so you can easily find e.g., char-boi or dim-sum. 


19eme and 20eme arrondissement "Belleville" (Metro Belleville Line 2)

Edgy, gritty neighborhood filled with graffiti art, it's worth it just to go see the graffiti art. Lots of Phô places to eat as well. This is the area where a lot of artists who got pushed out of e.g., Montmartre went for cheaper rents. On occasion they'll have art fairs, where you actually go from studio-to-studio to see and/or buy art. So if you're craving Phô, go and don't miss the graffiti art. 


SUMMARY 

There's many more small ethnic little neighborhoods throughout Paris and surrounding suburbs, but these are the main ethnic groups. So, if you want to explore ethnic foods beyond the tourist areas, this list is for you.



1 comment :

  1. Great list, Randy! I was curious if you knew a street name for "1-2 arrondissement. "Little Tokyo" (Metro L’Opéra line 8)". Thanks again, Janice Wang (and yes, I love the little Rue Volta for the outstanding take-out restaurants where you point and they fill a barquette.

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