A Tout Paris - Cheval Blanc -- Restaurant Review

 

For general information, menus, directions and reservations check their website: https://www.letoutparis.fr/#place

For information, directions and to make reservations, their website is: https://levolantbasque.fr/en

Rating Standards: 5-Stars = Extraordinary; 4-Stars = Excellent; 3-Stars = Average; 2-Stars = Fair; 1-Star = Poor € = Inexpensive: 30€ and under; €€ = Moderate: 31€-49€; €€€ = Expensive: €50 -75; €€€€ = Very Expensive: more than €76 (prices based on minimum 2-courses)

1-Bell = Pleasantly quiet (less than 65 decibels); 2-Bells = Can talk easily (65-70); 3-Bells = Talking normally gets difficult (70-80); 4-Bells = Can talk only in raised voices (75-90); BOMB = Too noisy for normal conversation (90+)

4.90 - star ...........................€€€€.......................................... 1-🔔 

A close friend of ours invited us to lunch at one of her favorite restaurants at the Cheval Blanc Hotel. The restaurant is called, "A Tout Paris". Interestingly, I've been before for cocktails and light snacks, but never for a full meal. I learned something new as well, they garnered their first michelin star in March of 2024. 

The views from around the restaurant are fantastic. Some of the best views in the whole of Paris. 

Today was Sunday, so the restaurant had a prix-fixe menu for lunch—code for “prepare to be very full very quickly.” It felt a bit overwhelming because there was so much food, but we powered through like the seasoned pros (and hungry people) we are.

Since I don't really drink, I swapped the Veuve Clicquot (came with meal) for a citrusy mocktail—bubbly in spirit, if not in alcohol. We also managed to polish off two bottles of sparkling water because, hydration is classy too.

AMUSE BOUCHE. We started with a gazpacho soup, but with a twist—it was made from the juice of fresh tomatoes and watermelon. It was a warm, beautiful spring day, and the vibrant colors of the dish made it feel like we were eating a little bowl of sunshine. There were even strawberries and raspberries in the mix. Despite the fruit, it leaned more savory than sweet—unexpected, refreshing, and honestly, kind of perfect.

ENTRÉE

For our entrées we shared (upper left clockwise), artichoke hearts, seabass gravlax, and veal very lightly seared.

ARTICHOKE HEARTS. The dish was served simply—blanched, then lightly tossed in a saffron dressing and adorned with a few tiny edible flowers. After all, it is spring. I love artichokes—leafs and all—but I wasn’t mad they skipped the whole deconstruct-it-yourself experience and just brought out the hearts. These were tender, flavorful, and included the soft, almost creamy stem. A beautifully composed dish.

Veal slightly seared. Then came the veal, which the menu described as being "in the spirit of a Niçoise salad." I’m not sure what spirit they were channeling, but it wasn’t the one I know. The veal was very lightly seared—just enough to give it a smoky kiss—leaving the meat rare, almost like a thick carpaccio. Not for everyone, because it is essentially raw, but I appreciated the boldness.

Seabass Gravlax served grapefruit dressing, sprinkled with brocolletti. 

One of my favorite dishes of the meal was the seabass gravlax. It was paired with a delicate grapefruit dressing and sprinkled with broccoletti. The fish was incredibly fresh and wisely left unburdened by heavy sauces. The broccoletti added a subtle crunch and a garden-fresh vibe that not only elevated the flavor but also made the plate look like spring itself.

Poached egg with a lobster sauce foamed.  And, when we thought you were done with the plethora of starters comes out the last appetizer, which was dramatic in its presentation. 

If I'm being honest, I'm not a fan of foams. So I left my bias behind and concentrated on the flavors. The flavors were spot on. The egg was poached perfectly. The pieces of lobster hidden under the foam added a nice nice sweet and savory flavor. Another hit.  

PLATS PRINCIPAL 

For the plats, you had several choices for everyone, even a vegetarian dish. Some of the dishes had a supplementary costs, which is to be expected. 

Our mains were accompanied by a generous spread of shared sides. There were mashed potatoes, elevated with just a hint of mustard for a tangy kick and topped with croutons for a bit of crunch—because why shouldn't mashed potatoes have texture too? A medley of vegetables added color and balance, alongside a warm pan of green peas mingling with tender asparagus.

To tie everything together, we were given three sauces: a red and a yellow béarnaise—both rich and creamy—and a deep, glossy demi-glace made from a well-reduced stock and wine. And of course, there was bread (because what is a meal without it?): one a robust, dark sourdough, the other a light, airy boule. Both excellent for unapologetic sauce-scooping.

BARBEQUE BLUE LOBSTER WITH BERNAISE SAUCE. Our hostess had the blue lobster—a stunningly simple yet elegant dish. I’m glad it was just grilled—no heavy-handed seasoning to mask that naturally sweet, delicate flavor. If you wanted a little extra flair, they provided a side of “red” Béarnaise sauce (don’t ask me why it was red—it’s France, just go with it). Paired with some fresh vegetables, it made for a truly special dish. Très magnifique!

Spatchcocked pigeon with red wine and passion fruit.  JJ took a bold leap and ordered the pigeon. Rare. Yes, rare pigeon. Now normally I’d be a bit skeptical—rare pigeon sounds like something a Victorian duke would eat on a dare—but this was absolutely divine. It was so tender it practically sighed and melted on your tongue. JJ cleverly added a few accompaniments to balance out the flavors (he’s always good at that). I have to admit—I loved it.

STEAK.Now this was a bit of a homecoming treat for me. I haven’t had a steak in ages—especially not in the U.S., where I’ve been avoiding the hormone meat for the past six months. But in France, the rules are different: no hormones, no nonsense, just grass-fed goodness.

That said, unless you order it à point (medium rare, which I did) or saignant (rare), you’re basically signing up for a wrestling match. French steak doesn’t do well overcooked—it gets tough fast.
Mine, thankfully, was grilled to perfection and absolutely delicious. It was also huge. Despite my best efforts, I couldn’t conquer it all. Great dish, just a bit too much cow for one sitting.

DESSERTS

Saved the best for last. 

I don't even know where to begin. Why not with the my favorite.

French toast. This was hands-down the highlight for me. A thick slice of brioche soaked in a rich egg custard, then pan-fried to golden perfection. The sugar caramelized into a crisp, crackly crust, while the inside stayed impossibly soft and custardy. Sure, they offered chocolate sauce and Chantilly cream on the side—but honestly, we all agreed it was best enjoyed plain. It didn’t need anything else. Simple. Sublime.

Chocolate tart. Coming in at a close second (at least for me) was the chocolate tart. It had a luscious, rich ganache shell that gave way to a smooth, light caramel custard filling. Silky, decadent, and just the right amount of indulgent. Now, my companions might argue the strawberry ice cream cake deserved second place—but we’ll call that a friendly dessert debate.

Strawberry Cake with ice cream. This was the second favorite for the others—and I get it. It was refreshingly light, thanks to the fresh strawberries and creamy ice cream. The Chantilly cream around the cake added an airy finish. Lovely and well-balanced… just not quite as swoon-worthy as the brioche or tart, in my opinion.

Final Note: We also had an array of sauces—chocolate, a tangy yogurt-raspberry coulis, and a scoop of rhubarb sorbet on the side. Yes, we definitely indulged… and have no regrets.

SUMMARY 

I’ve been to Le Cheval Blanc before—for apéros, and once for tea, well actually champagne, with the usual dainty sweets and delicate finger foods—but this was my first time going all in for a full meal. Personally, I love coming during the day to soak in that stunning panoramic view of Paris. Some of my friends, however, prefer the nighttime ambiance—"the city of lights", the Eiffel Tower doing its glittery show, the romance of it all. Honestly, there’s no bad time. The view is top-tier either way.

Now, onto the restaurant itself...
I thoroughly enjoyed it. They earned their first Michelin star in March 2024, and honestly, it makes sense. The atmosphere is sophisticated without being snooty. For a Michelin-starred spot, it wasn’t the least bit stiff or whisper-only. The tables were colorful and inviting—not the kind that make you feel like you need to straighten your posture and whisper in reverence.

The staff? Absolutely delightful. Engaging, funny, warm, and, best of all, human. None of that robotic, hyper-rehearsed service you sometimes get at high-end places. It felt like they actually liked being there—and by the end, we liked being there too. A lot.

Would we come back?
ABSOLUTELY. Possibly just for the view. Possibly just for the brioche French toast. Probably both.

The Details
The prix-fixe menu is €160 per person, and that includes a glass of Veuve Clicquot (yes, please) or a cocktail/mocktail. Do note: some dishes have a supplement, so don’t be surprised if your lobster costs a bit more (€35).

And since it's a set menu, definitely let them know about any allergies before things get rolling—unless you enjoy culinary allergy roulette.

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