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Tuesday, May 20, 2025

L'Antre Amis -- Restaurant Review

 

For general information, menus, directions and reservations check their website: https://www.lantreamis.com/


Rating Standards: 5-Stars = Extraordinary; 4-Stars = Excellent; 3-Stars = Average; 2-Stars = Fair; 1-Star = Poor € = Inexpensive: 30€ and under; €€ = Moderate: 31€-49€; €€€ = Expensive: €50 -75; €€€€ = Very Expensive: more than €76 (prices based on minimum 2-courses)

1-Bell = Pleasantly quiet (less than 65 decibels); 2-Bells = Can talk easily (65-70); 3-Bells = Talking normally gets difficult (70-80); 4-Bells = Can talk only in raised voices (75-90); BOMB = Too noisy for normal conversation (90+)


4.75 - star ...........................€€€.......................................... 1-🔔 


Friends of ours—fellow snowbirds from Palm Springs who spend their summers in Nice—were passing through Paris and suggested we meet at a restaurant they had discovered. He’s an avid follower of Michelin’s “Bib Gourmand” selections, and I also refer to this guide. The Bib Gourmand section highlights restaurants offering exceptional food at a good value—places that haven't earned a Michelin star (yet), but are certainly worth noting.




To my delight, the restaurant was located right in our arrondissement. It's considered large by Parisian standards, with the interior anchored by an impressive central bar and bread station. As is typical in Paris, the tables were tightly packed. They're known for their extensive wine collection, and since it was a beautiful spring evening, we opted to dine al fresco.


For his apéritif, JJ ordered absinthe. The presentation was unlike anything I’d seen before. Rather than the usual flaming sugar cube, this version used a slow drip of ice water to dissolve the sugar—an interesting twist. I had a sip, and it was, quite literally, smooth as butter.









The restaurant offers several prix-fixe menu options: an entrée + plat for €37, an entrée + plat + dessert for €42, and a five-course tasting menu for €62. Wine pairings for the tasting menu are available for an additional €86. JJ and one of our friends went with the three-course prix-fixe, while I and our other friend chose à la carte.


Note: I’m only reviewing the dishes I personally tasted.


 

AMUSE BOUCHE -- Cucumber gazpacho.The chilled cucumber soup was light and clean—remarkably creamy without any actual cream, so I suspect the thickness came from the natural fiber of the cucumber itself. It was simply topped with croutons and a drizzle of extra virgin olive oil. A perfect opener: flavorful, refreshing, and just enough to wet the appetite without feeling heavy or filling.



ENTRÉE. Langoustines croustillantes au basilic.What a refreshing start.
This was a very simple dish, but well-executed. The langoustines were wrapped in a thin pastry, reminiscent of a Filipino lumpia wrapper (which tends to be more delicate than the Chinese version). I initially mistook the decorative green triangle for seaweed—it turned out to be basil. Unfortunately, fried basil tends to lose much of its aroma. That said, the langoustines were naturally sweet and well-cooked. The accompanying sauce reminded me a bit of Thousand Island dressing, garnished with toasted sesame seeds—not a standout, but it complemented the dish fine. Overall: clean, simple, and pleasant.



Boudin snacké, chipirons au beurre persillé et coulis de poivrons
(Seared blood sausage with squid in parsley butter and a red pepper coulis)

JJ ordered this, and I had a taste—delicious. This dish isn’t for everyone (boudin is blood sausage, after all), and pairing it with squid initially struck me as odd. But it worked surprisingly well. The contrast of textures—earthy, rich sausage against tender, delicate squid—gave it a yin-yang quality, a beautiful balance of land and sea. The red pepper coulis brought the whole dish together. And I must note: the squid was perfectly tender. A standout dish.





Fricassée de ris de veau gnocchi et champignons “comme un vol au vent” (Fricassee of sweetbreads, gnocchi and mushrooms “like a vol-au-vent”
A quick note: a vol-au-vent is typically a puff pastry filled with savory ingredients. This interpretation was clever and satisfying. While I’m personally not a fan of foams, I have to say the dish as a whole was excellent. The sweetbreads were tender and flavorful, the gnocchi light and perfectly cooked (not at all gummy), and the pastry crisp and airy—though it did get a bit soggy as it sat in the sauce. The mushrooms were deeply flavorful. Honestly, the dish didn’t need the white foam; it could have stood confidently on its own. It’s more filling than it appears and a definite hit.


Fraises Gariguettes et sa glace, rhubarbe, crémeux citron. (Gariguette strawberries and ice cream, rhubarb, lemon cream). Interestingly, despite being a large restaurant, only two dessert options were available. JJ and I shared this one. He’s a big fan of rhubarb, and we were both happy with our choice. The dish was simple, letting the ingredients shine. Gariguette strawberries are sweeter and more aromatic than the standard variety—these were perfectly ripe and delicious. The ice cream was smooth and creamy, and the lemon cream added just the right amount of brightness. It was a clean, elegant finish. Sometimes, simplicity really is best.



2014 Domaine Maestracci “E Prove” Rouge 

A blend of Niellucciu, Grenache, Sciacarellu, and Syrah, this wine reflects Corsica’s rugged terroir.

Nose: Red berries, wild herbs (maquis), and subtle earth.
Palate: Cherry, leather, herbal notes, fresh acidity, fine tannins.
Finish: Clean, spicy, and persistent.
Aging: 1 year in steel, 1 year in large oak casks, 6–12 months in bottle.
Style: Balanced, elegant, with a rustic Mediterranean charm.
Pairing: Grilled meats, herb-roasted dishes, aged cheese.

Awarded 2 stars in Le Guide Hachette des Vins.



SUMMARY 

This restaurant has apparently been around for quite some time—yet we had to hear about it from our out-of-town friends. Go figure. It seems to be both a neighborhood favorite and a bit of a destination spot for Parisians from other arrondissements. How do I know? I didn’t hear a single word of English spoken—aside from us and a German couple quietly discussing the wine list like it was a religious text.

Tucked away on a quiet street, the restaurant is larger than most Paris spots, though in classic Parisian fashion, the tables were packed in like a game of culinary Tetris. That said, it wasn’t noisy at all inside. Likely because the French still believe that loud conversations and cackling laughter are the height of uncouth behavior. (Note to self: keep American volume at a respectable “indoor” level.)

Dining al fresco was a treat—the weather was mild and lovely. Though, full disclosure: dinner lasted a leisurely three hours (as it should), so by dessert, I was beginning to regret not bringing a light scarf or a small blanket… or a space heater.

Now let’s talk about the wine list. Calling it a “list” doesn’t do it justice. It was more like a thick literary tome—War and Wine, perhaps. A bit on the pricey side, yes, but if you're into wine, this place is a pilgrimage-worthy stop. You’ll be flipping pages for a while, but it’s worth it.

As for the food? Across the board: excellent. Not a single dud among the dishes. Every bite was thoughtfully prepared, and the service? Attentive, warm, and not at all rushed—which, again, explains the three-hour dinner.

Would we go back? ABSOLUTELY.

Final tally:
1 glass of champagne
1 glass of absinthe
1 bottle of wine
2 three-course prix-fixe menus
À la carte for 2-people: 1 langoustine, 1 white asparagus, 2 vol-au-vents

€284 total, or €71 per person

Not bad at all for a memorable evening of great food, wine, and the kind of relaxed Parisian ambiance you secretly hope for when you say, “Let’s have dinner in Paris.”

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