Discovering Paris, One Arrondissement at a Time
Since I’m spending the winter in the U.S., I’ve decided that rather than writing about food, I’ll share travel insights and information you might actually want to know — especially if Paris is on your horizon.
One of the most common questions I get when people plan a trip to Paris is, “What’s the best arrondissement?” The truth is, there isn’t a single “best.” Each has its own personality, rhythm, and charm. You can easily find the general descriptions online — and I’ll include some below — but I’ll also share my personal impressions from exploring them myself.
Paris is encircled by the Périphérique, the ring road that marks the city’s official boundary. But at its start lies the 1er arrondissement, and from there the districts spiral outward clockwise like a snail shell. What surprises many first-time visitors is how distinct each arrondissement feels — some even retain a village-like atmosphere within this global capital.
While Greater Paris counts over 11 million residents, the city proper — the area within the Périphérique — is home to just under 3 million people. Yet, by day, with the constant pulse of commuters and tourists, Paris can feel twice that size: energetic, crowded, and endlessly alive.
These are my personal views...
ARRONDISSMENTS:
1er – Le LouvreNickname: Le Cœur de Paris (“The Heart of Paris”)
The 1st arrondissement is steeped in history — home to landmarks like the Louvre, the Tuileries Gardens, and the Palais Royal. Naturally, that means it draws a steady stream of tourists year-round. Yet, despite the crowds, it’s a beautiful spot to slow down. I especially love lingering over an apéro in the gardens during the off-season, when the pace softens and locals reclaim the benches.
That said, Les Halles, which straddles the 1st and 2nd arrondissements, isn’t among my favorites. It’s undeniably central and lively, but also hectic. The massive underground metro hub can feel overwhelming and you can easily get lost in the maze like design, and the area tends to attract clusters of restless suburban youth with little to occupy their time, but sometimes make trouble. It’s energetic, yes — but not exactly relaxing.
2e – La Bourse
Nickname: Le Quartier des Affaires (“The Business District”)
When we first moved to Paris in 2008, Les Halles and Rue Montorgueil were far from the city’s most charming corners. Despite a police station in the heart of Les Halles, the area had a rough edge — open drug dealing and a few unsavory characters made it feel less than inviting.
Fast forward to today, and the transformation is remarkable. With the complete redevelopment of Les Halles, Rue Montorgueil has blossomed into one of my favorite streets for an afternoon stroll. It’s now lined with specialty food shops, lively cafés, and restaurants that showcase the best of Parisian street life — local, flavorful, and endlessly watchable.
Just nearby stands Église Saint-Eustache, one of Paris’s most striking Gothic churches, where you can often catch free concerts that fill the vaulted interior with magnificent acoustics — a perfect, and very Parisian, interlude to any day in the neighborhood.
3e – Le Marais Nord Nickname: Le Haut-Marais.
Once known for its working-class roots and quiet corners, the 3ᵉ and 4ᵉ arrondissements, collectively called Le Marais — literally translates to “the swamp” — have evolved into one of the city’s most artsy, sophisticated, and fashion-forward neighborhoods.
Today, its cobblestone streets are lined with boutiques, galleries, and effortlessly stylish locals. It’s long been a favorite haunt of creatives, and it also thrives as Paris’s best-known LGBTQ+ district, with a lively mix of bars, cafés, shows, and nightspots that come alive after dark. In my opinion, it’s also the best place in Paris to people-watch — a moving catwalk of style, character and charm.
Few know that the original Chinatown of Paris was also born here, around Rue au Maire and Rue Volta near Arts-et-Métiers in the northern 3ᵉ. In the early 20th century, this was home to Chinese textile workers and shopkeepers — a quiet chapter of Parisian history that still lingers in a handful of family-run stores today, albeit wholesale.
4e – L’Hôtel-de-Ville
Nickname: Le Vieux Paris (“Old Paris”)
The 4th arrondissement is the undeniable historic and geographical anchor of Paris, seamlessly blending civic grandeur with medieval charm. At its core stands the magnificent Hôtel de Ville, the seat of the Mayor, whose plaza transforms seasonally into a major public venue like an ice rink in the winter.
This district encompasses the city’s ancient origins, hosting both the Île de la Cité—home to the iconic Notre-Dame Cathedral—and the elegant, residential Île Saint-Louis. Furthermore, the 4th contains the heart of the historic Jewish quarter of Le Marais, known as the Pletzl, where narrow streets preserve a vibrant cultural heritage and host culinary landmarks like the world-renowned L’As du Fallafel at 34 Rue des Rosiers, and new Israeli restaurants are popping up every day.
5e – Le Quartier LatinNickname: Le Cerveau de Paris (“The Brain of Paris”)
The 5ᵉ arrondissement, Paris’s historic Latin Quarter, remains the city’s intellectual and academic heart. Anchored by Sorbonne University and the solemn Panthéon, it exudes a youthful energy that keeps local prices surprisingly reasonable. For an authentic taste of Parisian life, Rue Mouffetard is a must — a lively, cobblestone street brimming with markets, cafés, and specialty food shops. It’s so picturesque, in fact, that parts of it have been used as a backdrop in Emily in Paris.
Yet the neighborhood’s charm comes with a contrast. The area around Shakespeare and Company has become highly commercialized, feeling at times more like a Disneyland version of Paris than a living, breathing quarter. Visitors need a discerning eye to navigate past the tourist façades and uncover the district’s true, intellectual soul.
6e – Saint-Germain-des-Prés
Nickname: Le Paris Intellectuel
I have a love/hate relationship with this area, primarily because it’s so, so touristy. The 6ᵉ and 7ᵉ arrondissements are often dubbed “Little America” due to the high number of English speakers, making it one of the recommended neighborhoods for American expats seeking an upscale, familiar landing spot.
There’s undeniable charm here: old-school Parisian glamour, where Sartre, Beauvoir, and jazz legends once roamed the streets. Today, the arrondissement is lined with luxury boutiques and literary cafés such as Les Deux Magots and Café de Flore — iconic, but admittedly too touristy and expensive for my taste. Notably, it’s also home to Paris’s oldest café, Procope opened in 1686, a small slice of history amidst the bustling streets.
And then there’s my personal favorite: the Jardin du Luxembourg, a serene and beautifully landscaped park in the 6ᵉ, perfect for people-watching, reading, or simply soaking up Parisian life.
7e – Les InvalidesNickname: Le Quartier des Ministres
I’ve always liked the 7ᵉ arrondissement, that aristocratic, stately slice of Paris — home to the Eiffel Tower, Musée d’Orsay, and numerous political residences. Calm, elegant, and undeniably chic, it’s a quintessentially Parisian arrondissement, albeit expensive.
That said, my affection for Rue Cler waned the moment Rick Steves made a video about it. Don’t get me wrong, I love Rick Steves — but whenever he highlights a spot, consider it the “kiss of death”: tourists flock, prices rise, and the neighborhood’s charm shifts underfoot.
I still enjoy the 7ᵉ, but I avoid the immediate Eiffel Tower area, which has become overrun with tourists, scammers, and pickpockets — a reminder that in Paris, petty theft is a very real concern for visitors. For those seeking calm, elegance, and authentic Parisian life, the arrondissement has plenty to offer beyond the touristic hotspots.
Nickname: Le Triangle d’Or (“The Golden Triangle”)
The 8ᵉ arrondissement exudes power and luxury: grand avenues, high fashion, embassies, and major businesses — a district defined by old money and prestige. That said, it doesn’t feel like a place I’d personally want to live.
If I’m being honest, the Champs-Élysées is the street I try to avoid. Once an emblem of Parisian elegance, it has morphed into a wide, crowded boulevard lined with tacky chain stores, overpriced cafés, and throngs of tourists. The heart of the avenue can feel more commercial than charming. We try and avoid that area. However, venture down the side streets, and you’ll find a quieter, more interesting Paris — boutiques, cafés, and local life largely untouched by the tourist tide.
Nickname: Le Broadway Parisien
Back in 2009, the 9ᵉ arrondissement felt like a work in progress. Today, it’s transformed — and for the better. The district blends theaters, cabarets, and Belle Époque charm with the grandeur of Opéra Garnier, iconic department stores like Galeries Lafayette, and a buzzing nightlife scene. Food lovers will also appreciate the vibrant culinary offerings, from casual cafés to innovative restaurants.
That said, a small, specific corner near Pigalle retains a seedier edge, with sex shops and a visible presence of prostitutes. But beyond this pocket, the arrondissement is dynamic, stylish, and one of Paris’s more intriguing mixes of history, culture, and contemporary energy. If we moved back to the right bank, this is the arrondissement where I'd want to live.
Nickname: Le Quartier Hipster
When we first arrived in 2008, Canal Saint-Martin had a rough reputation. The canal was often dirty and neglected, sometimes even used as a dumping ground. Today, the transformation is remarkable: the waterway is clean, paddle boats are available to rent, and the area has become a lively spot for canal-side picnics and leisurely strolls.
I affectionately call this part of the 10ᵉ arrondissement “Little India” and “Little Africa” — one of Paris’s most ethnically diverse neighborhoods. It’s where I stock up on Indian groceries, enjoy vibrant meals, and experience cultural highlights like Diwali, a spectacular celebration not to be missed. Beyond that, the area thrives on multicultural street art, bobo (bourgeois-bohemian) energy, and a restaurant scene that’s still on the rise.
That said, caution is warranted near the train stations, such as Gare de l’Est, which can still feel seedy at times. Overall, Canal Saint-Martin is a neighborhood on the upswing — lively, diverse, and full of surprises for those willing to explore.
Nickname: Le Quartier Branché (“The Trendy District”)
The 11ᵉ arrondissement is not just home to the Bastille — it’s where Paris’s youthful energy and nightlife truly begin and end. Buzzing with indie cafés, vibrant bars, and activist energy, the district feels young, progressive, and a bit rebellious.
By day and early evening, the cafés offer a relaxed, approachable vibe. But come 11 p.m., many transform into jazz clubs, party bars, and hotspots with bouncers, making the streets alive — and loud. If I were to live here, my apartment would definitely need to face an inner courtyard, because the weekend nights can be relentless.
Beyond the nightlife, the 11ᵉ also boasts a dynamic food scene, reflecting its diverse, creative, and energetic community. For the young and adventurous, it’s a district that pulses with life — just not for light sleepers.
Nickname: Le Vert Parisien (“Green Paris”)
For some reason, the 12ᵉ arrondissement feels surprisingly removed from the bustle of central Paris, even though it’s well within the city limits. Characterized by tall, modern residential buildings and a relative scarcity of cafés, it offers a residential reprieve from the hectic center.
The area also boasts ample green spaces, including the Bois de Vincennes and the elevated Promenade Plantée, alongside contemporary developments. It’s calm yet well connected, making it an appealing balance of serenity and accessibility.
A quirky tidbit: part of the Bois de Vincennes is dedicated to naturism, offering opportunities for hiking and sunbathing au naturel. Nearby, Bercy Village provides a lively counterpoint, with its concentration of theaters, cafés, and restaurants, blending culture, leisure, and modern Parisian living.
13e – Chinatown / Butte-aux-Cailles
Nickname: Le Quartier Asiatique
The 13ᵉ arrondissement’s Chinatown is vast, dynamic, and endlessly fascinating. While it’s called “Chinatown,” the majority of restaurants, cafés, and businesses are run by Southeast Asians — particularly Vietnamese with Chinese ancestry — giving the area a unique, multicultural flavor.
Here, skyscrapers rise alongside cozy, village-like streets, creating a striking urban contrast. The neighborhood is a haven for Asian food markets, specialty groceries, and kitchen supply stores, offering everything from fresh produce to exotic ingredients.
Having grown up in San Francisco, where Chinatown cuisine is predominantly Cantonese, I personally prefer the Southeast Asian flavors found here — Laotian, Cambodian, and Vietnamese dishes feel far more authentic to me, rich in spices, herbs, and traditions that feel true to the region.
Nickname: Le Quartier des Artistes
The 14ᵉ arrondissement is steeped in history, once the haunt of Hemingway, Gertrude Stein, Josephine Baker, Picasso, and countless other luminaries. It’s one of my personal favorites. My go-to spot is Le Select, a café where writers like Hemingway would sit for hours, alone or in groups, discussing their next literary or artistic projects.
In those days, artists could even pay with their work — paintings in exchange for a meal. Across the street, Le Coupole has a similar legacy; replicas of some of those exchanged artworks still adorn the walls today, offering a tangible link to the past.
For a lighter, more playful stroll, there’s Rue du Montparnasse, affectionately called “Crepe Alley” for its long row of cafés and restaurants specializing in crepes — a sweet and savory reminder that Parisian history lives in both culture and cuisine.
Nickname: Le Quartier Familial
I may be a little biased — we’ve lived in the 15ᵉ arrondissement in the same apartment since 2009. Some outsiders call it boring, but locals like us love it for its parks, markets, and proximity to the Eiffel Tower without the crowds. We chose it because it’s quiet, residential, and middle-class — in other words, where real Parisians live. If we hear English, we know someone is clearly lost.
Since 2009, the 15ᵉ has grown and developed, particularly along Rue du Commerce and Rue de la Convention, offering more shops, cafés, and conveniences while retaining its calm charm. Best of all, it’s only 20 minutes from the city center, without the congestion and noise that define more tourist-heavy neighborhoods. That said, this arrondissement isn’t for everyone — especially not for the young or those seeking nightlife. For those who appreciate peaceful, authentic Parisian living, it’s a gem.
Nickname: Le Beau Quartier (“The Posh District”)
The 16ᵉ arrondissement was once considered the “Beverly Hills” of Paris. Several wealthy and high-profile figures, including Sarkozy, reside here. Locals jokingly call it a place where “the OLD rich white class go to die”. The district is conservative, elegant, and undeniably affluent, with wide avenues, embassies, and old-money prestige. In feel and vibe, it’s closer to Neuilly than the bustling heart of Paris.
The downside? Public transportation is limited, and cafés and restaurants are scarce. It’s very much a residential neighborhood, offering calm and exclusivity rather than the vibrancy of central Paris. Historically, many Americans favored this arrondissement because it provided the closest approximation of life back home in the U.S.
17e – Batignolles / Ternes
Nickname: Le Village Chic
I affectionately call this area the “other side of the Champs-Élysées.” It’s a split-personality arrondissement. To the south, neighborhoods like Ternes and Plaine Monceau exude elegance and affluence. Batignolles adds a young, trendy flair, while Ternes remains traditional and upscale. The area boasts excellent food markets and charming streets perfect for strolling.
By contrast, the northern outskirts near Porte de Clichy and Porte de Saint-Ouen feel more downtrodden and less polished. These outer-edge neighborhoods serve as high-traffic transit hubs and commercial zones, offering a glimpse of Paris beyond the postcard image.
One bright spot, however, is Parc Monceau — a personal favorite — with its tree-lined paths, statues, and classical charm, providing a peaceful refuge amid the arrondissement’s contrasting personalities.
Nickname: Le Village des Artistes
Montmartre holds a special place in my heart — it was our first neighborhood when we moved to Paris in 2008. It’s quintessentially Parisian, with old buildings, narrow winding streets, and a sense of history that lingers in every corner. Countless films have been shot here, capturing the district’s unique charm.
Once a haven for artists, Montmartre saw painters and writers thrive here — until rising rents pushed many creatives to the Belleville district. Today, the neighborhood has largely transformed into a bustling tourist playground, which is one of the reasons we eventually moved on.
One hidden gem remains: next to the Sacré-Cœur, you’ll find Marché Saint-Pierre at 2 Rue Charles Nodier — the largest fabric store in Paris, frequented by designers from Jean-Paul Gaultier to Karl Lagerfeld, a reminder that Montmartre’s creative spirit endures in subtle ways.
Nickname: Le Quartier des Cultures Urbaines
The 19ᵉ arrondissement is a little rough around the edges — some might even call parts of it seedy — and it sits just far enough from the typical tourist trail that it remains a stronghold for working Parisians. Young, diverse, and constantly reinventing itself, the area pulses with music venues, canals, and a vibrant community energy.
It’s also gaining a reputation as a hotspot for small theatres and jazz clubs, offering cultural experiences off the beaten path. Families will find Parc de la Villette a must-visit, with hands-on exhibits that make science and physics engaging for children. For more relaxed strolls or picnics, Parc des Buttes-Chaumont, one of my personal favorites, provides scenic greenery and a classic Parisian park experience.
20e – Ménilmontant / Belleville
Nickname: Le Quartier Populaire (“The People’s District”)
The 20ᵉ arrondissement, particularly "Belleville", became home to the artists who could no longer afford Montmartre. It’s gritty, artistic, and strikingly global, with street art and murals — some might call it graffiti elevated to art — filling the walls, alongside music venues and traces of its working-class roots now infused with a rising hipster influence.
Historically, it’s connected to Édith Piaf’s old stomping grounds, adding a touch of Parisian legend. The neighborhood is also known for excellent, inexpensive eats and, unofficially, has become Paris’s third “Chinatown”, though you can find cuisine from almost every corner of the globe here. It’s a district alive with creativity, culture, and flavor — raw, real, and endlessly fascinating.
SUMMARY
Paris has something for everyone, and even after nearly 19 years here, I’m still uncovering hidden streets, secret cafés, and corners that feel like little worlds of their own. These are my personal takes on each arrondissement — everyone experiences the city differently, but consider this your insider snapshot.
So lace up your walking shoes, grab a café to-go, and get lost in the streets. Paris is waiting, and trust me, there’s always a new discovery around the next corner.
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