About

"The evolving Francophile..."

My husband Jack has always wanted to live in Paris and learn French. I thought it would be good for him to achieve his life time dream. Hence, we moved to Paris in 2008. My first year was difficult. I started "missives" to relieve some stress and chronicle my life so friends back in the US could read what I am experiencing. I currently write about my food in Paris, which is my passion., travel experiences, and "experiences living in Paris."

It is definitely a challenge to live here, but each year it gets easier, and quite enjoyable, in large part because I value friendships over locale. I have a love/hate relationship with Paris as do most Parisians, mais La vie est belle (but life is good)!

Thursday, June 19, 2025

Anahuacali -- Restaurant Review


Website is inoperable
Address: 30 Rue des Bernardins, 75005 Paris, France
Phone: +33 1 43 26 10 20



Rating Standards: 5-Stars = Extraordinary; 4-Stars = Excellent; 3-Stars = Average; 2-Stars = Fair; 1-Star = Poor € = Inexpensive: 30€ and under; €€ = Moderate: 31€-49€; €€€ = Expensive: €50 -75; €€€€ = Very Expensive: more than €76 (prices based on minimum 2-courses)

1-Bell = Pleasantly quiet (less than 65 decibels); 2-Bells = Can talk easily (65-70); 3-Bells = Talking normally gets difficult (70-80); 4-Bells = Can talk only in raised voices (75-90); BOMB = Too noisy for normal conversation (90+)

3 - star ...........................€€.......................................... 1-🔔 
 (Note: we were the only diners in the restaurant, probably due to the heat, they have no outdoor seating) 

This restaurant has been around longer than we have—well before 2008, as far as we know. We hadn’t been back since the late 2000s.

I don’t usually review ethnic restaurants, but I occasionally make exceptions—especially since many American expats crave familiar flavors from home, even if reinterpreted through a different lens abroad. And let’s be honest: sometimes it’s just nice to take a break from French food. Personally, I often find myself craving something with a bit of heat.

Here’s one tip we’ve learned over the years: never, ever compare, say, Mexican food in Europe to what you can get in California or the American Southwest. The same goes for other cuisines—don’t expect Chinese food in Europe to match what you’d find in San Francisco or in China. If you do, you’re setting yourself up for disappointment 100% of the time. It’s just not the same experience—and that’s okay. It is what it is.

NOTE: I'm only reviewing dishes that I tasted.


Chips and Salsa Verde. I don’t usually comment on chips and salsa, but these were surprisingly good—especially the salsa. I wasn’t expecting anything spicy in Paris, but this had a nice kick. More than just heat, it had a bright, fresh flavor that tasted like it came from fresh jalapeños—not the canned kind. I could be wrong, but it definitely didn’t have that dull, processed taste. We all agreed: it was fresh, spicy, and full of flavor.











Nopales (Prickly pear cactus). We all shared this appetizer, but unfortunately, it didn’t quite hit the mark. The nopales didn’t taste fresh—they were either canned or severely overcooked. To be honest, the dish was a bit bland. It was topped with feta cheese instead of the more traditional queso fresco, which struck me as an odd choice. What it really needed was a bit of heat and a splash of citrus to bring it to life. As it was, it fell flat.








Cochinita Pibil. A traditional dish from Mexico’s Yucatán region, Cochinita Pibil is known for its tender, slow-cooked pork and vibrant flavor. This version featured pork simmered in an achiote and orange sauce, served with black beans, Mexican-style rice, pickled red onions, and a slice of avocado.

The pork was indeed very tender, but the overall flavor leaned heavily on the citrus—mainly due to the pickled onions—which somewhat overpowered the dish. It lacked any real heat, so I added some salsa verde to give it a bit of a kick. The black beans were topped with a mild feta, which is understandable since queso fresco is not readily available here, and the rice was good. Overall an OK dish, but nothing memorable.


SUMMARY

As a general rule, the French aren’t big fans of spicy food. So, most of the Mexican restaurants I’ve tried in Paris tend to be quite “Frenchified.” When a new place opens, it might start off with a bit more heat, but after a few complaints, the spice level usually gets toned down—often at the cost of authenticity.

That said, I thought the salsa verde here was excellent. The nopales needed a lot of help, and the cochinita pibil was just okay. Would we go back? Probably—but next time, I’ll be asking for extra salsa or a bottle of hot sauce.

I'll end by saying, 'STILL ON THE SEARCH'...

With 1-entrée, 4-plats, 1-coke, 2-beers for 4-people our lunch cost us €110.50 or almost €28 each. 

Note: the Restaurant does not have A/C 





 





Wednesday, June 18, 2025

Capitaine -- Restaurant Review

 

For info, directions see website: https://www.restaurantcapitaine.fr/


Rating Standards: 5-Stars = Extraordinary; 4-Stars = Excellent; 3-Stars = Average; 2-Stars = Fair; 1-Star = Poor € = Inexpensive: 30€ and under; €€ = Moderate: 31€-49€; €€€ = Expensive: €50 -75; €€€€ = Very Expensive: more than €76 (prices based on minimum 2-courses)

1-Bell = Pleasantly quiet (less than 65 decibels); 2-Bells = Can talk easily (65-70); 3-Bells = Talking normally gets difficult (70-80); 4-Bells = Can talk only in raised voices (75-90); BOMB = Too noisy for normal conversation (90+)

3.5 - star ...........................€€.......................................... 3.5-🔔 

A friend of ours recommended this restaurant, and I immediately jumped at the chance, since I’m already familiar with Le Servan. A bit of background: the Levha sisters—Katia and Tatiana, the acclaimed duo behind Le Servan—played a pivotal role in the creation of Capitaine. The menu was small, but in my book, the fewer items, the better. If you see a novel for a menu, run away. 

Back in 2014, chef Baptiste Day worked with them at Le Servan. When he branched out in 2017 to open Capitaine, the Levha sisters supported him, offering mentorship, guidance, and the benefit of their culinary vision. Their influence helped shape Capitaine as an extension of their shared approach to modern Parisian cuisine—thoughtful, inventive, and rooted in both tradition and personal heritage.

If you’re not familiar with their story, the Levha sisters draw inspiration from their Filipina mother, blending Asian flavors with French ingredients and classical techniques—a creative fusion I’ve always admired.

So I was genuinely excited to try Capitaine, having always been a fan of Le Servan.



It’s a fairly spacious restaurant with simple, unpretentious decor—no fancy linen tablecloths here. The kitchen is tiny, but the chef made it work impressively well. As for the restroom—yes, there’s only one—it’s quite small, but clean and well-kept.

The location is ideal, nestled between Le Marais and Bastille, making it easy to get to. That said, fair warning: on warm days, there’s no air conditioning, so bring a hand fan if you tend to overheat. The clientele was a diverse mix—not just locals, but visitors from all over the world, which speaks to the restaurant’s growing reputation.


NOTE: I will only review the dishes I tasted.



You will not find a menu on their website, I assume it is because they change it often. But here's a copy of the menu we were offered. 



ENTRÉES

PORK CROQUETTES. A simple dish, but beautifully executed. The filling reminded me of Southern-style shredded pork—tender, subtly seasoned, and not overly spiced. The exterior was perfectly fried: crisp, not greasy, with a lovely crunch. The accompanying mayonnaise was mild and balanced, allowing the flavors of the croquette to shine. It had that comforting, straightforward appeal you find in classic Southern fried fare. Excellent.

Note: this was a shared entrée.




VEAL TARTARE. This was my entrée. A beautifully presented entrée, with the veal tartare tucked beneath a delicate arrangement of fennel fronds, edible flowers, and salicoques (tiny shrimp like seaweed stems).

Unlike the ground version (think hamburger consistency), this tartare was cubed. Personally, I found it a bit challenging—the cubed meat retains the long muscle fibers, so each bite involved chewing through intact strands, which can feel chewy or sinewy, especially if the cut includes connective tissue or isn’t finely diced.

As a general tip: when ordering tartare, it’s worth asking where the meat was sourced and whether it was hand-chopped or machine-processed. If the latter, I’d skip it—poorly cleaned equipment increases the risk of bacterial contamination. (Don’t worry, this place seemed fine—just a note for fellow tartare fans.)

Flavor-wise, everything was well balanced and thoughtfully composed.The "bagna cauda)" (sauce made with garlic, anchovies, olive oil), was not overpowering at all. It tasted like a nice mayonnaise with a touch of anchovies. My only issue was with the texture of the veal itself. This would've been a great dish had it not been for the way the veal was prepared. Let’s just say... I had to ask for a toothpick afterward.



PLAT

TRUITE EN CROUTE. Truite en Croûte – Our waiter warned us this dish would be generous, easily enough for two, so a friend and I decided to share it. Unfortunately, the presentation was underwhelming. It arrived as a puff pastry dome over the fish with a single cabbage leaf wrapped around it. Visually, it lacked contrast—mostly shades of brown on brown. A touch of green or a bright garnish would’ve gone a long way.

As for the trout itself, I assume it was rainbow trout—the flesh was pink, almost like salmon, and surprisingly thick. It was perfectly cooked and very tender. We expected a side of vegetables, but none arrived... until we cut into the dish and found a bed of steamed cabbage hidden under the fish. Eh voilà—veggies!

My only real complaint: the flavor profile of the sauce leaned heavily citrusy, and combined with the use of garam masala (a blend of aromatic spices common in Indian and South Asian cuisines), it left a slightly bitter aftertaste. This might have been due to some of the spices not being properly bloomed (i.e., toasted to release their essential oils), which can result in bitterness. Otherwise truite en croûte on its own was perfectly cooked



DESSERTS

1. PAVLOVA – Full disclosure: I’m not a fan of Pavlovas to begin with, so take this with a grain of salt. I took one bite and, for me, it felt more like whipped cream over apricots. It was quite sweet and very cream-forward, which didn’t quite win me over. That said, the rest of the table really enjoyed it, so clearly it hit the mark for Pavlova lovers.

2. TARTLETTE– A classic strawberry and raspberry tart on an almond-flour crust. Even though I rarely eat dessert—usually just a taste for review’s sake—I’d say this was the better of the two. The fruit tasted very fresh, and my friends agreed it was the standout.

If I’m being honest, while both were enjoyable, they didn’t quite rise to the level of what you might expect from Paris or France, where dessert is often an art form. These had more of a well-made, home-style quality—comforting and familiar, but not particularly refined or inventive.



Wine- Syrah

Appearance: Deep ruby with violet hues at the rim, youthful and vibrant in the glass.

Nose: Expressive and aromatic, with notes of ripe blackberry, black cherry, and plum. Subtle hints of cracked black pepper, violet, and a touch of smoked meat or charcuterie in the background. A trace of garrigue or dried herbs suggests a southern French influence.

Palate: Medium-bodied with fresh acidity and soft, integrated tannins. The fruit carries through on the palate—juicy dark berries, blackcurrant, and a bit of licorice. A gentle spiciness lingers, alongside a slightly earthy or mineral undertone. It’s approachable and easy-drinking, yet retains the varietal character of Syrah without being overly extracted or heavy.

Finish: Clean and moderately long, with a lingering note of dark fruit and a touch of pepper.

Overall impressions. A well-balanced, youthful Syrah that leans toward elegance over power. Great for casual drinking, especially with grilled meats, charcuterie, or lentil dishes. Offers good value and accessibility, with enough character to make it interesting.


SUMMARY 

I’m genuinely torn about this restaurant. I had such high hopes—perhaps because I couldn’t help comparing it to Le Servan. The dishes were, overall, very good, but each had minor technical issues that kept them from being truly exceptional. Small adjustments could’ve made a big difference—like grinding instead of cubing the veal, or not using raw spices in a beurre blanc, which left a slightly bitter finish.


One detail that stood out: utensils weren’t changed between courses. I understand space is tight in the kitchen, but that’s a basic service standard—and investing in a dishwasher would go a long way.

Service was a bit uneven. The male staff were kind and attentive, but there was some visible tension in the back of house. One of the bus staff, the only woman on the team, came out in tears at one point. She composed herself quickly, but understandably didn’t seem in the best spirits. Also, we had to wait an unusually long time between the entrée and main course.

Another thing to note: it can get very noisy. The space is lively and energetic, but at times it was difficult to hear each other across the table—which might not suit everyone, depending on the occasion, eg not suitable for a romantic dinner

That said, I’d still consider going back. My friends loved their meals (entrées and plats), and I see real potential here. For me, it was an above average experience, with a few thoughtful refinements, it could become something truly special.

 For 1-bottle of wine, 5-entrées, 3-plats, 2-desserts, 1 bottle of water, for 4-of us our bill came to €268 or €67 each.

Saturday, June 7, 2025

Tavline -- Restaurant Review

 

For information, menu, reservations click on link Tavline Restaurant


Rating Standards: 5-Stars = Extraordinary; 4-Stars = Excellent; 3-Stars = Average; 2-Stars = Fair; 1-Star = Poor € = Inexpensive: 30€ and under; €€ = Moderate: 31€-49€; €€€ = Expensive: €50 -75; €€€€ = Very Expensive: more than €76 (prices based on minimum 2-courses)

1-Bell = Pleasantly quiet (less than 65 decibels); 2-Bells = Can talk easily (65-70); 3-Bells = Talking normally gets difficult (70-80); 4-Bells = Can talk only in raised voices (75-90); BOMB = Too noisy for normal conversation (90+)

4.5 - star ...........................€€.......................................... 2-🔔 


While searching for a place to share a meal, I wanted to take a break from French cuisine and was specifically looking for a healthier option. That’s when I came across this Israeli restaurant. Having been to Israel many times, I remembered how much emphasis they place on fresh vegetables and vibrant greens—exactly what I was in the mood for.

Interestingly, as we approached the restaurant, it immediately looked familiar. Turns out, we had been there when it first opened a couple of years ago. I remembered it being a scorching day, and with no A/C, I never got around to reviewing it—but I did remember the food being good. This time, I made sure to take notes.

The restaurant is small and located in the heart of the Marais district in Paris. It’s cozy, with tightly arranged tables and seating for maybe 20 guests. Nothing fancy—because here, it’s really all about the food.

Note: The dishes are designed for sharing, which is what we did. I'll only review the ones I personally tasted.


Cherrywood smoked sardines, preserved lemon, garlic Hebrew salsa and cumin yogurt 
Sardines usually come with bold, punchy flavors—vinegar, oil, and salt that essentially "cure" them. But this dish was a pleasant surprise and completely defied my expectations. These were definitely not canned sardines. The cherrywood smoking gave them a subtle depth without the usual overpowering tang. The garlic salsa added a vibrant, herbal freshness that really elevated the dish, and the cumin yogurt brought it all together. A very well-balanced plate.

Homemade hummus made with tahini, whole chickpeas, and cumin

I love hummus—and I still dream about the best one I’ve ever had in Jaffa, Israel. While nothing may ever top that, this version was good. It was smooth, earthy, and thankfully not over-salted, which I appreciated given my low-sodium diet, doctor's orders. It could’ve used just a touch more lemon for brightness, but the drizzle of olive oil and the garnish of fresh greens added a lovely freshness. Solid dish overall.


Roasted beets & homemade labane, za'atar, green chili condiment
At first glance, the beets were hidden beneath a generous mound of arugula, so the dish can be a bit deceiving to the eye. The arugula was lightly tossed in a bright, citrusy vinaigrette, which paired beautifully with the sweetness of the beets. The beets themselves were seasoned with za’atar—a fragrant Middle Eastern spice blend that added depth without overpowering. A creamy touch of labane, a tangy cheese made from yogurt, rounded out the dish. Altogether, a well-balanced and refreshing plate—especially if you enjoy this mix of sweet, tangy, and herbal flavors.


Roasted butternut squash with zaatar, butternut pickles, feta, pomegranate and chive oil
The butternut squash was perfectly roasted, with just the right amount of caramelization to bring out its natural sweetness. The pomegranate vinaigrette added a gentle tartness without overpowering the dish, and the chive oil was subtle enough to let the squash remain the star of the plate. Simple, balanced, and very well executed—a lovely dish.






Charred eggplant, feta, walnuts, capers, and za'atar paprika
I’ll admit—I love anything eggplant, so I might be a bit biased here. That said, this dish was beautifully done. The eggplant was perfectly cooked, with a soft texture that contrasted nicely with the crunch of the feta and the burst of sweetness from the pomegranate seeds. The paprika za’atar sauce was flavorful without being overpowering, and it really enhanced the natural richness of the eggplant. Another standout dish.







Fish of the day cooked in a ras le hanout sauce, miso tahina, tarragon pesto, chickpeas and smoked paprika oil.
This was the dish I ordered—and yet another one cleverly hidden beneath a bed of greens. But underneath was a real gem. I don’t recall exactly which fish it was, but it was a light, firm white fish—likely cod or bream—served in small, tender bite-sized pieces. The le hanout sauce added a warm, aromatic depth that really carried the dish. I didn’t catch much of the tahina, but the tarragon pesto came through nicely, adding a subtle herbal note. The fresh greens gave it a light, vibrant finish. I thoroughly enjoyed this one.


SUMMARY
It’s not a fancy restaurant by any means—just down-to-earth, wholesome food. Because it’s such a small space, they do turn tables, which I usually try to avoid. But we had the last lunch seating at 2 PM, so there was no pressure to rush, which made all the difference.

If you’re looking to take a break from French cuisine and want a meal that’s not only satisfying but also lighter and herb-forward, with plenty of fresh vegetables and greens, this is definitely a place worth trying.

Would we go back, absolutely. 

With 1-beets, 1-sardine, 2-butternut, 2-humuus, 1-eggplant, 2-chickens, 1-fish balls, 1-fish, 1-Shakshuka, 2-orders of pita bread, 3-sodas, 4-lemon/mint drinks (non-alcoholic), 2-cappucinos and 1 double espresso our bill for 6-people came to €273.50 or, rounding-up €46 each. 






Thursday, May 29, 2025

Brasserie AUTEIL (Rooftop & cocktail bar) -- Restaurant Review

For address, menu and general information, see website: https://www.auteuil-brasserie.com/menus-carte/?utm_source=Google&utm_medium=GMB&utm_campaign=AUT&y_source=1_MTE2NjUxOTEtNzE1LWxvY2F0aW9uLndlYnNpdGU%3D

Rating Standards: 5-Stars = Extraordinary; 4-Stars = Excellent; 3-Stars = Average; 2-Stars = Fair; 1-Star = Poor € = Inexpensive: 30€ and under; €€ = Moderate: 31€-49€; €€€ = Expensive: €50 -75; €€€€ = Very Expensive: more than €76 (prices based on minimum 2-courses)

1-Bell = Pleasantly quiet (less than 65 decibels); 2-Bells = Can talk easily (65-70); 3-Bells = Talking normally gets difficult (70-80); 4-Bells = Can talk only in raised voices (75-90); BOMB = Too noisy for normal conversation (90+)


4 - star ...........................€€.......................................... 2-🔔 


We had a planning meeting with close friends at his home in the 16eme. Now if you know the stereotypes of the 16eme arronidissment, let's such say it's known for "where old people retire and ...." 

After we all agreed on a plan, our friend suggested this restaurant. I was completely taken aback by this area. It was young, hip and sort of happening. 




This restaurant is spacious from an outdoor terrace for al fresco dining and boasts a lively rooftop dining— arguably the place to be. It's impressively large; if I didn’t know better, I might have mistaken it for a spot in the U.S. We however ate downstairs. Even more surprising is that it has a full bar, making it a great place to enjoy a reasonably priced cocktails.

The restaurant is known for its quick service and fresh ingredients. The menu draws inspiration from countries surrounding the Mediterranean, offering everything from hearty pastas to salads made with ancient grains — a healthy alternative to the rich, indulgent dishes often associated with French cuisine.


Keftas de boeuf
boeuf normand, houmous sésame, taboulé de blé vert à la menthe, oignons rouges au sumac, tomates confites, mayonnaise harissa. Three of us ordered this dish, and I have to say — it was absolutely delicious. Every ingredient tasted fresh. The kefta sat atop a hidden gem of creamy hummus, surrounded by a vibrant green wheat tabbouleh mixed with mint, onions, and sun-ripened tomatoes. A bold touch of harissa mayonnaise added just the right amount of heat, and a light sprinkle of sesame seeds brought it all together. Not only did it feel like a healthy choice, it was genuinely satisfying and full of flavor.




Salade freekeh. Two people at our table ordered this vegetarian dish, a vibrant mix of green wheat tabbouleh with mint, Datterino tomatoes, Kalamata olives, cucumber, radish, PDO feta, and a zesty sumac and lime vinaigrette.

I had a taste and found it incredibly fresh and seasonal. JJ described it as very flavorful, and I can imagine it’s also quite healthy.






1769 Clos Venturi Rouge (Red) – Corsica
Grape Variety: Often made from Niellucciu (a cousin of Sangiovese), with possible blends including Sciaccarellu or Grenache.

Appearance: Medium ruby with bright clarity.

Nose: Aromas of red berries (raspberry, cherry), Mediterranean herbs, hints of leather, earth, and subtle spice.

Palate: Medium-bodied with lively acidity and fine-grained tannins. 😜 of cherry, wild strawberry, and dried herbs, with a mineral backbone reflecting the granite soils of Corsica.

Finish: Clean, earthy, and slightly savory with good length.

JJ has had, and loved several Corsican wines before but this was a bit disappointing. 

SUMMARY

What a great find in the 16ème! If you're looking for a good, inexpensive, quick, and healthy meal, this is the place for you. Many Americans will appreciate the full bar and the variety of dining options — whether it's on the terrace, inside, or up on the rooftop. It’s a lively, youthful spot, and we fit right in! 🤣😉

We ordered 3 kefta dishes, 2 freekeh salads, and a bottle of wine — the total came to about €30 per person. An absolute bargain. Would we come back? Without a doubt.

Note: The restaurant is so spacious, I doubt you’ll need a reservation.



Wednesday, May 28, 2025

Jouvence -- Restaurant Review

 

For general information, menus, directions and reservations check their website: https://www.jouvence.paris/accueil#1


Rating Standards: 5-Stars = Extraordinary; 4-Stars = Excellent; 3-Stars = Average; 2-Stars = Fair; 1-Star = Poor € = Inexpensive: 30€ and under; €€ = Moderate: 31€-49€; €€€ = Expensive: €50 -75; €€€€ = Very Expensive: more than €76 (prices based on minimum 2-courses)



1-Bell = Pleasantly quiet (less than 65 decibels); 2-Bells = Can talk easily (65-70); 3-Bells = Talking normally gets difficult (70-80); 4-Bells = Can talk only in raised voices (75-90); BOMB = Too noisy for normal conversation (90+)



4.75 - star ...........................€€.......................................... 3-🔔 



These are the same friends who introduced us to L'Antre Amis, so when they recommended this spot on their last visit, we didn’t hesitate—they’re batting a perfect 1000 so far.

Now, here’s where things took a very me turn. As everyone knows, I have the directional instincts of a confused squirrel. I confidently told our two friends—that the restaurant was in their neighborhood. I somehow confused the 17ème with the 12ème (minor detail, right?). So, thanks to my geographical mix-up, they ended up schlepping across the entire city, which took them nearly an hour.

Fortunately, they know me well enough to just laugh it off. Getting lost is basically part of the experience when you're with me.




The empty table you see above is our table. It's a cute restaurant, but small. I counted the number of seats and there were only 26 seats. So, it's quite intimate.




We went for lunch, and while the menu isn’t as extensive as it is at dinner (you can check their website under “Information” for details), the prices are very reasonable. Their prix-fixe lunch—which includes entrée, main course, and dessert—is just €28. If you opt for only two courses, it’s €23. Either way, it’s a great deal.


Asperges blanches façon mimosa, croûtons, ail des ours. (White asparagus mimosa style, croutons, wild garlic). A simple dish, beautifully presented. Before my heart surgery, I might have found it under-seasoned (not enough salt), but for me now, it was perfect. I’m guessing they used some wild garlic leaves, which added a subtle, aromatic flavor. The grated egg yolk was a lovely touch, and the croutons brought in just the right amount of crunch. I thought it was a hit.


Cabillaud roti, courgette, pois chiche, citron confit, tomates cerises, sarriette (Roasted cod, zucchini, chickpeas, preserved lemon, cherry tomatoes, savory)  All three of us (JJ had the chicken, which was excellent too) agreed—this was an exceptionally well-composed dish. It started with a base of vibrant tomato coulis, topped with a neat row of blanched zucchini and lightly roasted cherry tomatoes. Scattered throughout were tender, perfectly cooked chickpeas that added a lovely earthiness.

The star of the show, of course, was the cod. It wasn’t overly salty, as cod often can be. Instead, it was incredibly tender while still holding its shape—and impressively moist. Every element complemented the others beautifully. A solid A+ from our table.




Ganache chocolate, financier, praline, emulsion cafe (Ganache chocolate, financier, praline, coffee emulsion) Since I was already getting full, I opted for the sweet dessert, thinking it might be lighter than the one served with cheese and bread. When you hear “ganache,” you usually imagine a dense, rich chocolate mass—but this one surprised me. It had a mousse-like quality: light, airy, and far less heavy than expected. I’m guessing they used a lighter cream and incorporated plenty of air during whipping. Whatever the technique, it was absolutely delicious.

The coffee emulsion cream was equally airy and pleasantly subtle—not too sweet. And the little slices of financier were a lovely bonus, adding just the right touch to finish the meal.

The bread served was absolutely one of the best we've ever had, and when we mentioned it to the waiter he indicated they make their own bread.

Note: No reviews on wines, since everyone ordered a different glass with their meal.

So for 3-glasses of wine, 1-bottle of sparkling water, 2x€28 (3-courses) prefix-fixe 3-courses), 2X€23 (prix-fixe 2-courses), 1 dessert, 2 coffees and extra cream our total bill came to €156 or €39/pp.


SUMMARY 

Thanks to our friends from Nice—what a great find! We don’t usually venture out to the 12ème arrondissement, as it’s a bit of a schlepp on the metro. We live on the other end of Paris, so it's not exactly around the corner. But if this lunch was just a glimpse of what their menu has to offer, we’d absolutely come back for dinner.

The restaurant is small—just 26 seats—so reservations are a must. It’s also recommended by the Bib Gourmand Michelin guide, which is always a good sign. It can get noisy, but we noticed all the other diners were French, which suggests it’s a true neighborhood gem.

The food? Excellent. And the prices? Very, very reasonable, especially considering the quality and care in each dish. Depending on where you're staying, it’s definitely worth the trek.


Le Coq et Fils -- Restaurant Review

 

For general information, menus, directions and reservations check their website: https://lecoq-fils.com/

Rating Standards: 5-Stars = Extraordinary; 4-Stars = Excellent; 3-Stars = Average; 2-Stars = Fair; 1-Star = Poor € = Inexpensive: 30€ and under; €€ = Moderate: 31€-49€; €€€ = Expensive: €50 -75; €€€€ = Very Expensive: more than €76 (prices based on minimum 2-courses)


1-Bell = Pleasantly quiet (less than 65 decibels); 2-Bells = Can talk easily (65-70); 3-Bells = Talking normally gets difficult (70-80); 4-Bells = Can talk only in raised voices (75-90); BOMB = Too noisy for normal conversation (90+)


3 - star ...........................€€.......................................... 4-🔔 


Our snowbird friends—who split their time between Paris and Palm Springs—organized a dinner for friends visiting from Texas. They chose a restaurant conveniently located near the end of their Montmartre walking tour. As many of you know, Montmartre feels like stepping back into old-world Paris. It’s a charming, cinematic neighborhood where many films are shot, thanks to its iconic sites like the Place du Tertre and the Sacré-Cœur. Naturally, this also means it’s packed with tourists.

The restaurant, Le Coq et Fils, translates to "The Rooster and Sons" and, as the name suggests, it specializes in poultry. In addition to chicken and rooster, they also serve guinea fowl and pigeon.

Our reservation was for 8:30 p.m. JJ and I arrived at 8:25 and were told the table wasn’t quite ready yet—they needed a few more minutes to prepare it. No problem. Our friends soon arrived, and the waiter explained that we’d be seated at a row of tables currently occupied, but the group would be leaving shortly.

That’s when the red flag went up for me. I really don’t like restaurants that turn tables—it’s usually a sign of a tourist-oriented place. While there was a large group of French-speaking diners in the back, they appeared to be from out of town celebrating a special occasion and had their table for the evening. It was also a very noisy restaurant. 

I noticed the waiter whisper something to the two remaining diners at "our" table, and shortly after, they got up and left—around 8:45. I assume they were asked to vacate. We were finally seated around 8:50. Regardless of how kind the staff was, it wasn’t the best first impression.  BTW, the french are horrible at turning tables, it's a new concept for them, with the exceptions of the 24/7 cafes.

The space is quite tight—typical of many Paris restaurants—and also includes a bar where one of the chefs works. You can sit there and eat as well.


Note: I’ll only review the dishes I personally tasted.



ENTRÉES

HUMMUS D’ARTICHAUTS Crumble au Parmesan & huile d’olive. (Hummus artichokes). This was a very simple starter: a hummus made from pureed artichoke hearts, rather than the traditional chickpeas and tahini. In fact, there was no tahini at all—just artichoke, olive oil, and a generous amount of lemon. It’s a bright, citrus-forward dish that would appeal to lemon lovers.

The Parmesan crumble added a nice savory contrast, giving the dish a bit of texture and richness. Overall, it was pleasant, but not especially memorable. A fine opener, but nothing particularly unique or crave-worthy.


PLATS
















This place leans more toward a family-style restaurant. We shared a whole roasted chicken, which the waiter presented to us whole before taking it back to carve. Once plated, they brought it back out along with the coq au vin.

ROAST CHICKEN: The roast chicken was quite good—moist, nicely seasoned, and well-prepared—but not exactly mind-blowing. And if I’m being honest, it was steeply priced. While six of us shared it, the chicken alone was €149. And, no it is not a typo. For context, I can buy a similar, slightly smaller, farm-raised chicken at our market for around €15. So, yes, it was good, but it didn’t quite justify the price tag.


QUART DE COQ AU VIN (Quarter Rooster in Wine Sauce)This was the standout dish for me—the highlight of the night. It was rich, flavorful, and perfectly braised. In the U.S., coq au vin is often made with regular chicken, which doesn’t stand up well to long braising and can result in a bitter, underdeveloped wine sauce. But using an actual rooster allows for a longer braise, which mellows the wine beautifully without the meat falling apart. This version was deeply savory and satisfying.

SIDE DISHES:

I didn’t get photos of the sides—they were served in small ramekins and not particularly photogenic. We had salad greens, fries, mac and cheese, and a vegetable fricassée. All were fine, but nothing out of the ordinary.


DESSERT


CRÈME DE PISTACHE (Cream of Pistachio) 
JJ ordered this dessert, and unfortunately, it was my least favorite of the evening. You really have to love whipped cream to enjoy it—because that’s essentially what it tasted like to me: lightly whipped cream, with a hint of green (possibly pistachio coloring) and a few toasted pistachios sprinkled on top. The cream itself lacked depth of flavor, and overall, it felt more like a filler dish than a thoughtfully crafted dessert. If I were the chef, I’d seriously reconsider keeping it on the menu—it just didn’t live up to the quality of the other dishes.












The Domaine Angelliaume Chinon Vieilles Vignes is a red wine crafted from 100% Cabernet Franc grapes grown in the Chinon appellation of France's Loire Valley. This cuvée is notable for its use of old vines, which contribute to the wine's depth and complexity.


Tasting Notes:

Appearance: The wine exhibits a ruby hue with violet reflections, indicative of its youth and vibrancy.

Aroma: On the nose, it offers an expressive bouquet of ripe red fruits, such as raspberry and cherry, complemented by subtle spicy notes. Hints of dried herbs and a touch of minerality add complexity to the aromatic profile.

Palate: The palate is well-structured, featuring flavors of stone and dried fruits. The wine's tannins are present yet refined, providing a balanced mouthfeel. A refreshing acidity enhances the overall harmony, leading to a long and satisfying finish.


SUMMARY

This restaurant is located in a very tourist-heavy part of Paris, and it shows. Having lived in the area, I can say there are quite a few restaurants here that focus on quick turnover—and this is definitely one of them. Personally, I’m not a fan of places that turn tables. It takes away from the dining experience. With that said, the service was excellent and attentive. 

The specialty here is fowl—chicken, rooster, guinea fowl, and even pigeon. Thankfully, one of our friends who organized the outing knew that a whole roasted chicken would go a long way, so we kept the ordering minimal. Had we all ordered separate plats, the bill could’ve been significantly higher (just check the online menu for reference).

If you're looking for a romantic, innovative, or quiet dining experience—with elegant plating or creative flair—this isn’t the place. It’s a straightforward, family-style restaurant serving rustic poultry dishes, the kind you might cook at home. That simplicity can be comforting, but for me, it wasn’t enough to make me want to return.

Overall, the food was just average.

For 5-entrees, A whole roasted chicken, a coq au vin (quarter), 2-bottles of wine, and 3-desserts, our bill came to €384 for 6-people or €64 person, not bad 

Tuesday, May 20, 2025

L'Antre Amis -- Restaurant Review

 

For general information, menus, directions and reservations check their website: https://www.lantreamis.com/


Rating Standards: 5-Stars = Extraordinary; 4-Stars = Excellent; 3-Stars = Average; 2-Stars = Fair; 1-Star = Poor € = Inexpensive: 30€ and under; €€ = Moderate: 31€-49€; €€€ = Expensive: €50 -75; €€€€ = Very Expensive: more than €76 (prices based on minimum 2-courses)

1-Bell = Pleasantly quiet (less than 65 decibels); 2-Bells = Can talk easily (65-70); 3-Bells = Talking normally gets difficult (70-80); 4-Bells = Can talk only in raised voices (75-90); BOMB = Too noisy for normal conversation (90+)


4.75 - star ...........................€€€.......................................... 1-🔔 


Friends of ours—fellow snowbirds from Palm Springs who spend their summers in Nice—were passing through Paris and suggested we meet at a restaurant they had discovered. He’s an avid follower of Michelin’s “Bib Gourmand” selections, and I also refer to this guide. The Bib Gourmand section highlights restaurants offering exceptional food at a good value—places that haven't earned a Michelin star (yet), but are certainly worth noting.




To my delight, the restaurant was located right in our arrondissement. It's considered large by Parisian standards, with the interior anchored by an impressive central bar and bread station. As is typical in Paris, the tables were tightly packed. They're known for their extensive wine collection, and since it was a beautiful spring evening, we opted to dine al fresco.


For his apéritif, JJ ordered absinthe. The presentation was unlike anything I’d seen before. Rather than the usual flaming sugar cube, this version used a slow drip of ice water to dissolve the sugar—an interesting twist. I had a sip, and it was, quite literally, smooth as butter.









The restaurant offers several prix-fixe menu options: an entrée + plat for €37, an entrée + plat + dessert for €42, and a five-course tasting menu for €62. Wine pairings for the tasting menu are available for an additional €86. JJ and one of our friends went with the three-course prix-fixe, while I and our other friend chose à la carte.


Note: I’m only reviewing the dishes I personally tasted.


 

AMUSE BOUCHE -- Cucumber gazpacho.The chilled cucumber soup was light and clean—remarkably creamy without any actual cream, so I suspect the thickness came from the natural fiber of the cucumber itself. It was simply topped with croutons and a drizzle of extra virgin olive oil. A perfect opener: flavorful, refreshing, and just enough to wet the appetite without feeling heavy or filling.



ENTRÉE. Langoustines croustillantes au basilic.What a refreshing start.
This was a very simple dish, but well-executed. The langoustines were wrapped in a thin pastry, reminiscent of a Filipino lumpia wrapper (which tends to be more delicate than the Chinese version). I initially mistook the decorative green triangle for seaweed—it turned out to be basil. Unfortunately, fried basil tends to lose much of its aroma. That said, the langoustines were naturally sweet and well-cooked. The accompanying sauce reminded me a bit of Thousand Island dressing, garnished with toasted sesame seeds—not a standout, but it complemented the dish fine. Overall: clean, simple, and pleasant.



Boudin snacké, chipirons au beurre persillé et coulis de poivrons
(Seared blood sausage with squid in parsley butter and a red pepper coulis)

JJ ordered this, and I had a taste—delicious. This dish isn’t for everyone (boudin is blood sausage, after all), and pairing it with squid initially struck me as odd. But it worked surprisingly well. The contrast of textures—earthy, rich sausage against tender, delicate squid—gave it a yin-yang quality, a beautiful balance of land and sea. The red pepper coulis brought the whole dish together. And I must note: the squid was perfectly tender. A standout dish.





Fricassée de ris de veau gnocchi et champignons “comme un vol au vent” (Fricassee of sweetbreads, gnocchi and mushrooms “like a vol-au-vent”
A quick note: a vol-au-vent is typically a puff pastry filled with savory ingredients. This interpretation was clever and satisfying. While I’m personally not a fan of foams, I have to say the dish as a whole was excellent. The sweetbreads were tender and flavorful, the gnocchi light and perfectly cooked (not at all gummy), and the pastry crisp and airy—though it did get a bit soggy as it sat in the sauce. The mushrooms were deeply flavorful. Honestly, the dish didn’t need the white foam; it could have stood confidently on its own. It’s more filling than it appears and a definite hit.


Fraises Gariguettes et sa glace, rhubarbe, crémeux citron. (Gariguette strawberries and ice cream, rhubarb, lemon cream). Interestingly, despite being a large restaurant, only two dessert options were available. JJ and I shared this one. He’s a big fan of rhubarb, and we were both happy with our choice. The dish was simple, letting the ingredients shine. Gariguette strawberries are sweeter and more aromatic than the standard variety—these were perfectly ripe and delicious. The ice cream was smooth and creamy, and the lemon cream added just the right amount of brightness. It was a clean, elegant finish. Sometimes, simplicity really is best.



2014 Domaine Maestracci “E Prove” Rouge 

A blend of Niellucciu, Grenache, Sciacarellu, and Syrah, this wine reflects Corsica’s rugged terroir.

Nose: Red berries, wild herbs (maquis), and subtle earth.
Palate: Cherry, leather, herbal notes, fresh acidity, fine tannins.
Finish: Clean, spicy, and persistent.
Aging: 1 year in steel, 1 year in large oak casks, 6–12 months in bottle.
Style: Balanced, elegant, with a rustic Mediterranean charm.
Pairing: Grilled meats, herb-roasted dishes, aged cheese.

Awarded 2 stars in Le Guide Hachette des Vins.



SUMMARY 

This restaurant has apparently been around for quite some time—yet we had to hear about it from our out-of-town friends. Go figure. It seems to be both a neighborhood favorite and a bit of a destination spot for Parisians from other arrondissements. How do I know? I didn’t hear a single word of English spoken—aside from us and a German couple quietly discussing the wine list like it was a religious text.

Tucked away on a quiet street, the restaurant is larger than most Paris spots, though in classic Parisian fashion, the tables were packed in like a game of culinary Tetris. That said, it wasn’t noisy at all inside. Likely because the French still believe that loud conversations and cackling laughter are the height of uncouth behavior. (Note to self: keep American volume at a respectable “indoor” level.)

Dining al fresco was a treat—the weather was mild and lovely. Though, full disclosure: dinner lasted a leisurely three hours (as it should), so by dessert, I was beginning to regret not bringing a light scarf or a small blanket… or a space heater.

Now let’s talk about the wine list. Calling it a “list” doesn’t do it justice. It was more like a thick literary tome—War and Wine, perhaps. A bit on the pricey side, yes, but if you're into wine, this place is a pilgrimage-worthy stop. You’ll be flipping pages for a while, but it’s worth it.

As for the food? Across the board: excellent. Not a single dud among the dishes. Every bite was thoughtfully prepared, and the service? Attentive, warm, and not at all rushed—which, again, explains the three-hour dinner.

Would we go back? ABSOLUTELY.

Final tally:
1 glass of champagne
1 glass of absinthe
1 bottle of wine
2 three-course prix-fixe menus
À la carte for 2-people: 1 langoustine, 1 white asparagus, 2 vol-au-vents

€284 total, or €71 per person

Not bad at all for a memorable evening of great food, wine, and the kind of relaxed Parisian ambiance you secretly hope for when you say, “Let’s have dinner in Paris.”