Le Petit Célestin -- Restaurant Review

 

Website: https://www.lepetitcelestin.fr/
For more information, location and reservations 

Rating Standards: 5-Stars = Extraordinary; 4-Stars = Excellent; 3-Stars = Average; 2-Stars = Fair; 1-Star = Poor

€ = Inexpensive: 30€ and under; €€ = Moderate: 31€-49€; €€€ = Expensive: €50 -75; €€€€ = Very Expensive: more than €76 (prices based on minimum 2-courses)

1-Bell = Pleasantly quiet (less than 65 decibels); 2-Bells = Can talk easily (65-70); 3-Bells = Talking normally gets difficult (70-75); 4-Bells = Can talk only in raised voices (75-80); BOMB = Too noisy for normal conversation (80+)

3.50 - Star...............................................................€€€........................................................... 2 - Bell

After having drinks with friends from Palm Springs who are staying nearby at the SO/ Hotel, we decided to grab a bite to eat. I had been to this restaurant before, back in September 2014, click here to refer to old review (2014 review)

What surprised me this time was how many of the customers were walk-ins, like us. Most of the tables were set up along the large sidewalk terrace, which turned out to be perfect on such a beautiful evening. There’s really nothing better than sitting outside in Paris with a drink and dinner while the city does its thing around you.

My only complaint is that the tables along the street side are pretty tightly squeezed together, with the bike lane right next to them. A little more breathing room would make the experience a little more comfortable.

Other than that, it was lovely to be able to sit outside and enjoy such a beautiful Paris evening.

From what I understand, both management and ownership have changed hands several times over the years, so I was curious to see how the restaurant had evolved since my last visit.

NOTE: I will only review the dishes I had.




ENTRÉE

Fond d'artichaut, œuf poché bio, crème de pleurotes. (Artichoke heart, organic poached egg, oyster mushroom cream)

At first glance, I thought, Oh no, this is going to be old-school French cooking with lots of heavy cream—not exactly ideal for someone who’s lactose intolerant. But I was pleasantly surprised. The sauce did contain cream, but it was surprisingly light. My guess is they used xanthan gum to stabilize it, allowing them to use less cream without sacrificing the silky texture.

The artichoke was perfectly cooked, and the poached egg added another layer of richness and creaminess. Overall, a very good dish. Looks can definitely be deceiving.

PLAT

Canard sauvage (Wild duck)

This was the special of the night, so it wasn’t on the regular menu. Happily, the sauce wasn’t cream-based but a beautifully rich jus.

The wild duck was flavorful, but unfortunately quite tough. Wild duck is notoriously lean and unforgiving when overcooked—except, perhaps, when it’s transformed into confit de canard. The doneness was also inconsistent: some pieces were tender, while others from the same cut were surprisingly tough.

The jus was excellent, and the duck came with fries but not a vegetable in sight—almost harkening back to the days when vegetables were merely a garnish and diners wanted their money’s worth in protein.

It was tasty, but not my favorite dish. Because with duck, as with life, it’s not just about the flavor—the texture and balance matters too.

DESSERTS

Lemon Meringue Pie 

When the lemon meringue pie arrived, about 80% of it seemed to be meringue. But one thing the French do exceptionally well is meringue—they make it smooth and stable, without those nasty little wet beads of sugar.

And this lemon filling was pucker-level tart. JJ and our friend absolutely loved it precisely because of that. I figured all that meringue was there to balance the tartness. I’ll defer to the two dessert lovers, since I’m not much of a dessert person. Their verdict: they loved it.

SUMMARY

Having visited this location before, I’d been curious to return, especially knowing that both the management and chefs have changed. The setting is hard to beat—right along the Seine, across from Île Saint-Louis. I was surprised by how many English speakers were dining there, and equally surprised that they had plenty of tables available for walk-ins. The staff were also charmingly delightful, which always makes a difference, that's why I bumped up the review by .5. 

And then, the food.

The artichoke was very good. The mushroom sauce looked rich, but was actually quite light, while the poached egg added a lovely silkiness and another layer of flavor and texture. And really, who doesn’t love a perfectly poached egg?

The wild duck was my least favorite. It was flavorful, but unevenly cooked, with some pieces tender and others frustratingly tough. It also cried out for a vegetable to cut through the richness. And fries with wild duck? Let’s just say I’m still processing that French logic.

Overall, there were some very enjoyable dishes, and the setting and service made for a pleasant evening.

The damage: €164 for three people—about €55 per person—for two entrées, three plats, one dessert, three glasses of wine, and a bottle of sparkling water.

Would we come back?

Yes, but I wouldn’t make it a destination restaurant. It’s a good neighborhood choice, particularly if we’re in the area, haven’t made a reservation, and need somewhere reliable to eat. In that situation, I’d happily go back.