PIANOVIN -- Restaurant Reivew

 

No updated website, but address is 46 Rue Trousseau, 75011 Paris

Rating Standards: 5-Stars = Extraordinary; 4-Stars = Excellent; 3-Stars = Average; 2-Stars = Fair; 1-Star = Poor 

1-Bell = Pleasantly quiet (less than 65 decibels); 2-Bells = Can talk easily (65-70); 3-Bells = Talking normally gets difficult (70-80); 4-Bells = Can talk only in raised voices (75-90); BOMB = Too noisy for normal conversation (90+)

BASED ON TASTING MENU FOR THEIR SOFT OPENING, EASILY I CAN GIVE IT 5

Normally I don't review restaurants wherein I'm comped. But this was a opening and they want feedback. So, one of our favorite restaurants in Paris, "Chefs À Table" opened up a new restaurant down the street. Technically it is not open, they had a "soft-opening" for their local customers, whom my close friend Sarah is one of them. And, I was her date for the evening. Lucky me. The "soft-opening" will continue for a few more days and/or weeks and I will announce it when it will be opened. They have a website from the previous owners, but very outdated, and I'm not sure what their phone # will be  make reservations yet. Again, I will update you as soon as I find out. If we were the guinea pigs, then lucky us. 

It's a small narrow restaurant, but very cozy, and more importantly it's air-conditioned.  So, definitely a must go to place to cool down for the summer months.  

As you entered you will see the kitchen, it's wide open. As most of you know I like open kitchens, it tells you a lot about a restaurant, how they work, and the orderly and cleanliness of the kitchen. 

It is a "dégustation" (tasting) menu. Our first batch (starting top left going clockwise) was fresh oysters. Wow, I've never had fresh oysters like this. They got rid of the brine and then made a juice from cucumbers. Replaced the brine with the cucumbers and 2 nibbles of cucumber, reminiscent of sweet and sour. You still had the flavors of the sea, but not as intense. It sat on a bed of wakame seaweed, which is edible, but it was more for garnish, cause I tasted it and there was no flavor. Overall, this was a fantastic first start. Very refreshing. 

The next was a "sweetbread" croquette. OMG, this was absolutely delicious. It was crunchy, not oily, deep fried croquette and a soft succulent sweetbreads that melted in your mount. A hit.

Lastly, we had beer crackers. Crackers were made with a beer batter. Very simple with dollops of creamed peas, onions and a thin slice sashimi which I believe was yellowtail, but not sure.

Throughout the meal we had sliced sourdough bread with a butter mixture composed by Emmanuel, the chef. It was the soft fresh creaminess of the butter with a basil oil and some textural element. Perfect.

Pickled beets with an apple mustard ice cream. Talk about inventive, and who in their right mind would think that mustard and apples would make a good ice cream. And, no it was not a mousse, it was literally ice cream.

Beets are such meh to me. But these raw pickled beets in combination with the apple mustard ice cream brought beets to a whole new level. The flavor profiles were unbelievable. I'm now a believer. AMEN to that.

This was a de-constructed ravioli. From the first impression (right photo) it doesn't look like anything special. As you unfold the top ravioli or pasta sheet, which was a squid ink pasta garnished with radishes, you get a wonderful surprise of lobster meat and and the accompanying sauce. I have nothing to say but good things about this dish. This had to have been my favorite dish. The sweetness of the lobster with the starch of the pasta and pickled radish was a hit. I'd have this again in a nano-second. 

Next our fish course. It was a fera fish, a fresh water lake fish commonly found in France and Switzerland.

It was accompanied with a grilled fig, radishes and a basil cream. From the first impression I assumed that the fish skin was going to be crispy. It was actually flashed grill or pan grilled and then steamed. The fish was extremely moist and the skin was edible, melted in your mouth. Personally, I would've preferred the skin to be crispy, but either way it was delicious. I think Emmanuel likes working with radishes and it worked well with this dish as well.. 

And, at this point I am so, so full. But we still had our meat dish and of course dessert. This was a "cote de porc". with a grilled nectarine, baby bok choy and a demi-glace. This was delicious. The meat was so tender. I really do not like fruit with savory dishes, probably from my days of having "duck l'orange", which I hate, but my friend Sarah insisted that I combine the two and taste. Well now I'm a believer. Nectarines aren't real sweet and when grilled it gave it a nice smoky flavor. It worked extremely well by offsetting  the savory with a little "textured" sweetness. 

At this point I'm busting at the seams, but we're onto our last dessert. As many of you know I don't like desserts, primarily because I don't like sweets. 

But this was definitely an interesting dessert. It was an ice cream of zucchini, ever so slightly sweetened, with some crumbled pound cake and a local cream cheese, much lighter, thinner and not as sour as the American version. I actually liked this dessert because it wasn't sweet. For someone who doesn't eat dessert, I'd have this again, primarily because it wasn't cloyingly sweet. 

LIBATIONS 

LAHERTE FRES A CHAVOT ULTRADITION BRUT 

Laherte Frères Ultratradition Brut is a Champagne that showcases the craftsmanship and terroir of the Laherte family in Chavot, France. Here are some detailed tasting notes:

Appearance

Color: Bright golden-yellow with a fine, persistent mousse.

Clarity: Clear and vibrant.

Nose (Aroma)

Primary Aromas: Fresh and fruity with notes of green apple, pear, and citrus (lemon zest and grapefruit).

Secondary Aromas: Floral hints, particularly white flowers like acacia and honeysuckle.

Tertiary Aromas: Subtle hints of toasted almonds, brioche, and a touch of minerality.

Palate (Taste)

Structure: Medium-bodied with a well-balanced acidity and a creamy, smooth texture.

Flavors: The palate reflects the nose with fresh apple, pear, and citrus flavors. There are also hints of peach and apricot, adding complexity.

Secondary Flavors: Notes of freshly baked bread, toasted nuts, and a touch of honey.

Minerality: A distinct chalky minerality that gives a sense of the terroir.

Finish: Long and clean with a lingering freshness and slight saline note.

Overall Impression

Laherte Frères Ultratradition Brut is a refined and elegant Champagne with a perfect balance between freshness and complexity. It is versatile and can be enjoyed on its own or paired with a variety of foods such as seafood, light appetizers, and soft cheeses. This Champagne highlights the traditional methods and unique terroir of the Laherte family vineyards, making it a delightful choice for any occasion.

DOMAINE DES HUARDS FRANCOIS 

Domaine des Huards François 1er 2020, Cour Cheverny Cendrier is a distinctive white wine made from the Romorantin grape, which is unique to the Cour-Cheverny appellation in the Loire Valley, France. Here are the detailed tasting notes:

Appearance

Color: Pale straw yellow with greenish highlights.

Clarity: Clear and bright.

Nose (Aroma)

Primary Aromas: Fresh and vibrant with prominent notes of green apple, pear, and citrus (lime and lemon).

Secondary Aromas: Hints of white flowers such as acacia and hawthorn.

Tertiary Aromas: Subtle nuances of wet stone and flint, contributing to a mineral edge.

Palate (Taste)

Structure: Medium-bodied with a crisp acidity and a well-integrated texture.

Flavors: The palate showcases a combination of tart green apple, juicy pear, and citrus flavors, reflecting the aromas.

Secondary Flavors: Hints of quince and a touch of honey, adding depth and complexity.

Minerality: Pronounced minerality with a chalky, almost saline character that is typical of the Romorantin grape.

Finish: Long, refreshing finish with a persistent minerality and a slight bitterness, which enhances the overall balance.

Overall Impression

Domaine des Huards François 1er 2020, Cour Cheverny Cendrier is a well-crafted and expressive wine that highlights the unique qualities of the Romorantin grape and the terroir of Cour-Cheverny. It offers a delightful balance of fruit, floral, and mineral notes, making it an excellent choice for those who appreciate distinctive and terroir-driven wines. This wine pairs beautifully with seafood, particularly oysters and shellfish, as well as goat cheese and light, herbaceous dishes.

SYLVAIN PATAILLE BOURGOGNE

Sylvain Pataille Bourgogne AOC is a wine that reflects the skill and philosophy of Sylvain Pataille, a renowned winemaker known for his commitment to organic and biodynamic viticulture. Here are the detailed tasting notes:

Appearance

Color: Ruby red with purple tinges.

Clarity: Clear and bright with a youthful appearance.

Nose (Aroma)

Primary Aromas: Fresh red fruits, including cherry, raspberry, and red currant.

Secondary Aromas: Hints of violet and peony, providing a floral lift.

Tertiary Aromas: Subtle earthiness with notes of underbrush, wet leaves, and a touch of spice (cinnamon, clove).

Palate (Taste)

Structure: Medium-bodied with a balanced acidity and fine-grained tannins.

Flavors: The palate mirrors the nose with vibrant red fruit flavors, particularly cherry and raspberry.

Secondary Flavors: A delicate touch of licorice and a hint of minerality.

Texture: Silky and smooth with a refined tannic structure.

Finish: Medium to long finish with lingering red fruit and a slight earthy undertone.

Overall Impression

Sylvain Pataille Bourgogne AOC is a beautifully crafted wine that captures the essence of Burgundy. It offers a harmonious balance of fruit, floral, and earthy elements, making it an approachable yet complex wine. This wine is versatile and pairs well with a range of dishes, including roasted poultry, grilled salmon, charcuterie, and soft cheeses. It is an excellent representation of the Bourgogne appellation and Sylvain Pataille's dedication to natural winemaking techniques.

SUMMARY 

Be on the lookout when this restaurant opens. I can already see it becoming a destination restaurant. Emmanuel is so young, but so talented. He's not afraid to mix-match flavors to see what would taste good to the palate. Because it was a soft opening, I don't know when they will open, nor the prices etc, but I will keep you posted. Hopefully they'll open in September when we come back. Keep in mind it is a "dégustation" menu (tasting menu), like their other restaurant "Chefs à Table." And, I'm pretty sure they will accommodate people with allergies or likes/dislike.

NOTE: No prices yet, everything was comped. Thanks again Sarah for thinking of me to join you. It was quite a lovely experience. 

A MUST GO TO. 

I WILL UPDATE THIS POST ONCE I GET MORE INFORMATION AS TO WHEN THEY WILL OPEN AND UPDATE THEIR WEBSITE.