A friend of ours recommended this restaurant, and I immediately jumped at the chance, since I’m already familiar with Le Servan. A bit of background: the Levha sisters—Katia and Tatiana, the acclaimed duo behind Le Servan—played a pivotal role in the creation of Capitaine. The menu was small, but in my book, the fewer items, the better. If you see a novel for a menu, run away.
Back in 2014, chef Baptiste Day worked with them at Le Servan. When he branched out in 2017 to open Capitaine, the Levha sisters supported him, offering mentorship, guidance, and the benefit of their culinary vision. Their influence helped shape Capitaine as an extension of their shared approach to modern Parisian cuisine—thoughtful, inventive, and rooted in both tradition and personal heritage.
If you’re not familiar with their story, the Levha sisters draw inspiration from their Filipina mother, blending Asian flavors with French ingredients and classical techniques—a creative fusion I’ve always admired.
So I was genuinely excited to try Capitaine, having always been a fan of Le Servan.
It’s a fairly spacious restaurant with simple, unpretentious decor—no fancy linen tablecloths here. The kitchen is tiny, but the chef made it work impressively well. As for the restroom—yes, there’s only one—it’s quite small, but clean and well-kept.
The location is ideal, nestled between Le Marais and Bastille, making it easy to get to. That said, fair warning: on warm days, there’s no air conditioning, so bring a hand fan if you tend to overheat. The clientele was a diverse mix—not just locals, but visitors from all over the world, which speaks to the restaurant’s growing reputation.
NOTE: I will only review the dishes I tasted.
You will not find a menu on their website, I assume it is because they change it often. But here's a copy of the menu we were offered.
Note: this was a shared entrée.
VEAL TARTARE. This was my entrée. A beautifully presented entrée, with the veal tartare tucked beneath a delicate arrangement of fennel fronds, edible flowers, and salicoques (tiny shrimp like seaweed stems).
Unlike the ground version (think hamburger consistency), this tartare was cubed. Personally, I found it a bit challenging—the cubed meat retains the long muscle fibers, so each bite involved chewing through intact strands, which can feel chewy or sinewy, especially if the cut includes connective tissue or isn’t finely diced.
As a general tip: when ordering tartare, it’s worth asking where the meat was sourced and whether it was hand-chopped or machine-processed. If the latter, I’d skip it—poorly cleaned equipment increases the risk of bacterial contamination. (Don’t worry, this place seemed fine—just a note for fellow tartare fans.)
Flavor-wise, everything was well balanced and thoughtfully composed.The "bagna cauda)" (sauce made with garlic, anchovies, olive oil), was not overpowering at all. It tasted like a nice mayonnaise with a touch of anchovies. My only issue was with the texture of the veal itself. This would've been a great dish had it not been for the way the veal was prepared. Let’s just say... I had to ask for a toothpick afterward.
PLAT
As for the trout itself, I assume it was rainbow trout—the flesh was pink, almost like salmon, and surprisingly thick. It was perfectly cooked and very tender. We expected a side of vegetables, but none arrived... until we cut into the dish and found a bed of steamed cabbage hidden under the fish. Eh voilà—veggies!
My only real complaint: the flavor profile of the sauce leaned heavily citrusy, and combined with the use of garam masala (a blend of aromatic spices common in Indian and South Asian cuisines), it left a slightly bitter aftertaste. This might have been due to some of the spices not being properly bloomed (i.e., toasted to release their essential oils), which can result in bitterness. Otherwise truite en croûte on its own was perfectly cooked
1. PAVLOVA – Full disclosure: I’m not a fan of Pavlovas to begin with, so take this with a grain of salt. I took one bite and, for me, it felt more like whipped cream over apricots. It was quite sweet and very cream-forward, which didn’t quite win me over. That said, the rest of the table really enjoyed it, so clearly it hit the mark for Pavlova lovers.
2. TARTLETTE– A classic strawberry and raspberry tart on an almond-flour crust. Even though I rarely eat dessert—usually just a taste for review’s sake—I’d say this was the better of the two. The fruit tasted very fresh, and my friends agreed it was the standout.
If I’m being honest, while both were enjoyable, they didn’t quite rise to the level of what you might expect from Paris or France, where dessert is often an art form. These had more of a well-made, home-style quality—comforting and familiar, but not particularly refined or inventive.
Appearance: Deep ruby with violet hues at the rim, youthful and vibrant in the glass.
Nose: Expressive and aromatic, with notes of ripe blackberry, black cherry, and plum. Subtle hints of cracked black pepper, violet, and a touch of smoked meat or charcuterie in the background. A trace of garrigue or dried herbs suggests a southern French influence.
Palate: Medium-bodied with fresh acidity and soft, integrated tannins. The fruit carries through on the palate—juicy dark berries, blackcurrant, and a bit of licorice. A gentle spiciness lingers, alongside a slightly earthy or mineral undertone. It’s approachable and easy-drinking, yet retains the varietal character of Syrah without being overly extracted or heavy.
Finish: Clean and moderately long, with a lingering note of dark fruit and a touch of pepper.
Overall impressions. A well-balanced, youthful Syrah that leans toward elegance over power. Great for casual drinking, especially with grilled meats, charcuterie, or lentil dishes. Offers good value and accessibility, with enough character to make it interesting.
For 1-bottle of wine, 5-entrées, 3-plats, 2-desserts, 1 bottle of water, for 4-of us our bill came to €268 or €67 each.
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