Le Clin D’œil -- Restaurant Review

 

For menu, reservation and address: https://www.thefork.fr/restaurant/le-clin-d-oeil-r24715

Rating Standards: 5-Stars = Extraordinary; 4-Stars = Excellent; 3-Stars = Average; 2-Stars = Fair; 1-Star = Poor € = Inexpensive: 30€ and under; €€ = Moderate: 31€-49€; €€€ = Expensive: €50 -75; €€€€ = Very Expensive: more than €76 (prices based on minimum 2-courses)

1-Bell = Pleasantly quiet (less than 65 decibels); 2-Bells = Can talk easily (65-70); 3-Bells = Talking normally gets difficult (70-80); 4-Bells = Can talk only in raised voices (75-90); BOMB = Too noisy for normal conversation (90+)

3.5 - stars .........................€€...................................... 1-🔔 

My nephew’s in town from Australia, and since he spent a few years studying in Paris, I thought it would be nice to revisit that chapter of his life over dinner. I picked a little neighborhood spot in the 15ème—not only close to us, but also easy for him to reach from Meudon, where he’s staying.

The restaurant is tucked away on a quiet side street off Vaugirard, which, fun fact, is said to be the longest street in Paris. It’s the kind of place only locals know about—no tourists, no frills—just the warm, unpretentious charm of a true Parisian neighborhood restaurant

Stepping inside felt like being transported back in time. The glow from the bar lit up the room, where glossy black-and-white portraits of Brando, Lauren Bacall, and the Rat Pack watched over us like old friends. You could almost imagine Sinatra leaning against the counter, drink in hand, while a piano tinkled in the background and a smoky-voiced singer set the mood.

It had all the glamour of a Palm Springs hideaway from the 1950s—except here, in true Parisian fashion, the entire restaurant held no more than 18 or 20 seats. Intimate, understated, and effortlessly charming.

NOTE: I'll only review dishes I had.

ENTRÉE. Dauphiné ravioli with chive cream. The entrée arrived as a generous plate of potato-filled ravioli in a creamy cheese sauce. It was rich and satisfying, without being heavy, and well-prepared overall. Pleasant as it was, the dish didn’t venture far beyond the familiar—comforting, yes, but nothing out of the ordinary.

PLAT PRINCIPAL. Rumsteak with a green pepper sauce accompanied with potatoes and vegetables. I hadn’t had a steak in ages, so I decided to indulge. It arrived exactly as ordered—à point (medium rare)—tender, flavorful, and paired with a pepper sauce that, while a touch rich, suited it perfectly. My only quibble was the vegetables, which were softer than I prefer. Lately, I’ve noticed more and more restaurants serving them al dente, so this felt like a bit of a throwback to when we first moved here and overcooked vegetables were the rule. A French culinary friend once explained that undercooked vegetables risk tasting ‘like grass’—a reminder of how culinary preferences can diverge.”

DESSERT. Profiteroles au chocolat. Talk about overindulging. As someone who’s lactose intolerant, I really had no business ordering dessert after swimming through all that cream and butter. But at that point I figured, why stop now? Besides, if disaster struck, our apartment was only a short wobble away.

Enter the profiteroles. I hadn’t had them in over a decade, and maybe that’s why they tasted so wickedly good—or maybe it’s just that the forbidden always does, n’est-ce pas? The chocolate sauce was gloriously rich, draped over profiteroles so airy they almost floated, stuffed with whipped cream that pretended to make the whole thing ‘lighter’ (as if!). It was indulgence on indulgence, and I regret nothing.

Note: I did, in fact, get sick the next day and nearly didn’t make it to my physical therapy appointment. But really, isn’t that the mark of a dessert worth remembering?

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WINE. Rosso Passione. We all agreed this wine went well with the meal.

Rosso Passione pours into the glass with a deep, seductive ruby glow, like velvet catching candlelight. The nose is immediately inviting—ripe cherries and dark plums entwined with whispers of violets, a touch of spice, and the faintest suggestion of cocoa. It feels less like a wine and more like an embrace.

On the palate, it’s smooth and supple, carrying waves of red berries, wild raspberries, and a hint of pomegranate. A gentle warmth lingers beneath, balanced by a bright acidity that gives the wine energy and lift. The tannins are polished, almost silken, making each sip glide effortlessly.

The finish is long and lingering, leaving behind a trail of fruit, spice, and quiet intensity—just enough to keep you reaching for another glass. True to its name, this is a wine of passion: bold yet tender, indulgent yet graceful.

Pairing suggestion: Best shared over candlelit dinners, hearty pastas, roasted lamb, or simply as a companion to good conversation and stolen glances.

SUMMARY 

With its très-French name and a menu that looked the part, I was all set for a proper Gallic evening. But then I caught the waiter—who I’m fairly certain was also the owner—speaking, and thought, that’s not Parisian, that’s an Italian accent. Sure enough, confirmed later. Suddenly, the menu made perfect sense. It wasn’t a carb-heavy ode to pasta or pizza, but a sort of Italo-French fusion: my potato ravioli in cream, JJ’s veal cozied up with rigatoni on the other side.

Let’s be honest: this isn’t the kind of restaurant gunning for Michelin stars. The food is straightforward, a little rustic, but deeply comforting—the kind of fare that makes locals keep coming back. The space itself is warm and inviting, more ‘your friendly neighborhood haunt’ than ‘special occasion destination.’

I did not notice any 'fait maison' sign, so I wondered if everything was made in-house. For instance, the desserts seemed like they might not be entirely homemade. For certain, the desserts had that suspiciously polished look that screams ‘brought in by the delivery guy at 3 p.m.’ But whoever their supplier is—chapeau. They chose wisely.

Would we return? Absolutely. It’s cozy, close to home, and doesn’t take itself too seriously. For four prix-fixe menus (entrée, plat, and dessert) at €45 each, plus a bottle of wine, the bill came to €215—or €53.75 a head. Not bad for a night of Franco-Italian comfort and a little neighborhood charm.