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| For logstics, reservations, directions: https://lazare-paris.fr/menu/ |
Rating Standards: 5-Stars = Extraordinary; 4-Stars = Excellent; 3-Stars = Average; 2-Stars = Fair; 1-Star = Poor € = Inexpensive: 30€ and under; €€ = Moderate: 31€-49€; €€€ = Expensive: €50 -75; €€€€ = Very Expensive: more than €76 (prices based on minimum 2-courses)
1-Bell = Pleasantly quiet (less than 65 decibels); 2-Bells = Can talk easily (65-70); 3-Bells = Talking normally gets difficult (70-80); 4-Bells = Can talk only in raised voices (75-90); BOMB = Too noisy for normal conversation (90+)
3.75- stars .................€€€................. Interior BOMB (Interior), 🔔 🔔 (Exterior)
Finding a restaurant that worked for all three of us wasn't easy—we were literally coming from opposite sides of Paris (east, south, and west). To make things even more challenging, we were meeting on a Monday night, when many of Paris's restaurants are typically closed. I finally settled on this one, conveniently located right inside Gare Saint-Lazare. That turned out to be a great choice because service was leisurely, and we didn't leave until after 11 p.m. Thankfully, all of our Métro lines were just steps away, making the trip home easy for everyone.
As soon as I walked in, I recognized the place. A French friend had brought me here for lunch years ago. I'd never reviewed it, but I remembered it being quiet, comfortable, and serving good food, but we went during off season.
BTW, this is a large restaurant, it can accomodate:
As soon as we walked in, the first thing I noticed was that the restaurant was packed—and incredibly loud. I suspect the recent heatwave played a big part, with locals and tourists alike flocking to one of the few air-conditioned restaurants in Paris. The noise was so intense that my iPhone warned me the sound level could be harmful. I checked my decibel meter: 85+ dB, which falls into the "extremely loud" range where prolonged exposure can contribute to hearing damage.
Once everyone arrived, we decided to brave the warm evening and move outside. Unsurprisingly, they had a table. Ironically, most diners seemed to prefer the obnoxiously noisy, air-conditioned dining room over the much quieter terrace—and we were more than happy to take advantage of that.
They have a prix-fixe menu at €49 for 3-courses.
Now onto the food. I'm reviewing only the dishes I had. For convenience I will translate the dish into English.
ENTREE
The presentation was simple and understated. The pâté en croûte was well seasoned and flavorful, but both the filling and the pastry were denser than ideal. A great pâté en croûte should strike a balance between a moist, tender filling and a light, flaky crust.
The pickled beetroot added a welcome touch of acidity, cutting through the richness and bringing balance to the dish. While the texture kept it from being exceptional, it was still an enjoyable starter overall.
PLAT
This looked like a hearty dish from the moment it arrived. If you're a fan of lemon, you'll love it—the flavors were definitely lemon-forward. The gnocchi were a standout: light, tender, and perfectly cooked, never gummy. The olives added a welcome savory contrast, while the roasted cherry tomatoes brought sweetness without overpowering the dish.
Overall, I really enjoyed it. If I had one criticism, the chicken was just a touch dry. That said, considering the sheer volume this kitchen produces—the restaurant can easily seat over 200 diners at a time—it's understandable. I'd happily order this dish again, and hope I get a more moist chicken, cause the flavors were all there.
DESSERTS
On a warm summer evening, it's hard to beat a sorbet, so that was an easy choice. It may look like a simple dessert, but the real star was the Calvados. If you're unfamiliar with it, think of Calvados as the apple equivalent of cognac—a distilled apple brandy with notes of baked apples, vanilla, and spice.
The kitchen certainly didn't skimp on the Calvados. A pleasant surprise was the chunks of apple folded into the sorbet, adding both texture and flavor. Better yet, any Calvados left in the glass could be enjoyed as a little after-dinner cocktail.
A refreshing and memorable finish to an excellent meal.
WINES
By Ott 2024 Côtes de Provence
This pale Provence rosé was the perfect companion on a warm Paris evening. Bright and refreshing, it offered delicate notes of white peach, apricot, and citrus with a crisp mineral finish. Elegant, balanced, and easy to drink, it's exactly what you hope for from a quality Côtes de Provence rosé.
SUMMARY
I've always believed that a restaurant experience begins the moment you make a reservation and doesn't end until you walk out the door. My previous visit was for lunch during the off-season, so this was a very different experience. I suspect the extraordinary crowds were largely due to the European heatwave. Finding an air-conditioned restaurant in Paris—especially one that's open on a Monday—is no easy feat.
Despite the crowds, the staff remained gracious and professional, especially the maître d'. It was clear they were stretched thin. We eventually escaped the deafening dining room for the terrace, where they happily accommodated us. Our table was a bit awkwardly tucked into a corner, making it difficult to get in and out, but that was a small price to pay for a quieter setting.
The food was consistently good, particularly considering the restaurant's impressive volume. My only real criticism was the pacing. There was an unusually long wait between the starters and main courses, even by Parisian standards and while I don't fault the staff, the timing noticeably affected the overall experience.
So how do you rate a restaurant where the food is good, the staff is warm and welcoming, but the service is uneven and the indoor dining room is nearly unbearable? For me, it comes down to balance. The strengths outweighed the weaknesses, but the shortcomings were significant enough to keep this from being a truly outstanding meal.
With three prix-fixe menus at €49each, 1-bottle water €5.50, 1-bottle wine €39, 1-calamari starter €16 (JJ loved it), 1-fish and chips €20 (JJ said it was terrible). Total bill rounded to €59 each.
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